Video Install of my Osburn 1800, Chimney Liner, and Blockoff Plate

[ADDvanced]

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Figured this deserved it's own thread, after all my questions getting to this point. Huge thanks to everyone who helped answer all my dumb questions! I also put a link to this forum in the video description so people can learn more.

Couple things so far:

1. LOVE IT! Gets the coldest room in the house about 80 deg so far. Our furnace is barely on, which... is a bit problematic as we do need heat in the other end of the house, but I only have two zones, upstairs and downstairs. And of course, the hardwired thermostat is 8' from the fireplace insert... so... yeah. Not sure how to solve that issue yet.

2. My air damper valve plate thing... it's bent up at a 90 degree angle because the insert is recessed into the fireplace a bit. Previous owner bent it. I'm not sure if I'm getting fully closed, or fully open. When I close it, the vertical handle runs into the side of the stove. When I open it, it hits the masonry. Not really sure what to do about that yet either.

3. I've read about efficiency. Some say, get it as hot as possible right away by burning smaller, stuff, then switch to large chunks and close down the damper for most efficient burn, and try to keep an eye on temps so it stays in the optimum burn range to avoid creosote. I've also read to let things burn all the way down to coals before refilling... which makes sense from not using wood standpoint, but then the stove is cooler and I need to get it hot again. Which is correct?

 

[begreen]

Fun video. Nice job on the block-off plate. A couple of things to note. Outdoor breakin fires work better with some stove pipe on the stove. Even 4 ft helps. The top cap is usually corner-notched then the excess folded over to create a drip edge around the flue tile.
Is this an insulated liner?

The fire looks like it could do with getting less air. That will promote better secondary combustion. Carefully bend back the air control lever so that it can work full range.

 

[ADDvanced]

Yeah, I read about adding some during the break in fire, but I didn't have any and it's $$$.

Top cap was a disappointment. I expected it to have a lip to slip over the edge of hte flue tile, but nope. Just flush with it. I think the silicone would hold it, but after cutting off the old cap and screwing that bracket on there, I'm sure it won't go anywhere. You can't see it in the video but there is a gap around it too, so snow/water will not build up on the flat cap, it will run down the sides.

No insulation for me; the chimney is pretty centered in the house. I went back and forth on it a lot, and since I've insulated the chimney blockoff plate, and I've insulated the top cap, I'm not sure I would see the benefit. If it was an exterior chimney I definitely would have done it!

 

[begreen]

A 4' length of simple 6" warm air duct works fine for a temporary outside flue. It's cheap.
The insulated liner is for code and safety. It can be skipped if the chimney has 2" clearance from combustibles all the way up through the roof. Most do not meet this requirement.

 

[ADDvanced]

Yeah, that control valve handle hits the masonry or the stove. Not really sure what to do about it. Even a custom zig zag would ultimately have the same issue.

 

[begreen]

IIRC the air control pushes in, toward the left on this stove in order close off the air. Is that right? If so, what would be binding or hitting the masonry? I can see how there might be an issue where the air control lever hits the masonry when all the way open, but not closed.

The 90º leg on the end of the air control is where it pokes through the surround, which is missing. As described it sounds like the issue is that the insert is a bit too far recessed into the fireplace cavity, but perhaps I am not visualizing this correctly. Can you post a shot of the problem?

 

[ADDvanced]

Pushing it all the way to the left is closed, yes, but the vertical portion of hte handle hits the side of the stove. I'll post pics in a bit.

 

[Riteway]

1. LOVE IT! Gets the coldest room in the house about 80 deg so far. Our furnace is barely on, which... is a bit problematic as we do need heat in the other end of the house, but I only have two zones, upstairs and downstairs. And of course, the hardwired thermostat is 8' from the fireplace insert... so... yeah. Not sure how to solve that issue yet.

Many modern furnace thermostats have a "circ" setting, which kicks on the furnace blower (but not the heat) for about 20 minutes every hour. Depending upon where the furnace air intake is located, this can help equalize the temps throughout the whole house when using a stove/insert.

 

[bholler]

Pushing it all the way to the left is closed, yes, but the vertical portion of hte handle hits the side of the stove. I'll post pics in a bit.

Use a 30 degree elbow and pull the insert out to where it should be and the air control will work fine

 

[ADDvanced]

Many modern furnace thermostats have a "circ" setting, which kicks on the furnace blower (but not the heat) for about 20 minutes every hour. Depending upon where the furnace air intake is located, this can help equalize the temps throughout the whole house when using a stove/insert.

I have a boiler and radiators on the baseboards, so no forced air circulation. I do have central air forced air, but all the ducting is in the attic, and I feel that if I turned that on all the heat would be lost pretty quickly.

 

[begreen]

Pushing it all the way to the left is closed, yes, but the vertical portion of hte handle hits the side of the stove. I'll post pics in a bit.

OK, the handle end should point out toward you. It fits in a slot on the surround. I would think that's what limits its travel.

 

[shortys7777]

That cap clamp looks like it might hold water/snow from the video. I like the block off plate. I shoved safe and sound up mine and cut the damper with my grinder and put it back up to hold everything in place. I also used safe and sound under the cap up top and shoved it down as far as I could before sealing the cap off. Maybe I'll do a real one next year. Nice video!

 

[ADDvanced]

What is safe and sound? Yeah it looks like it would trap water/snow in the video, but there is a gap of about .5-1cm everywhere except the very corners, which have a tab of metal holding it downwards. Theoretically there could be some snow/ice buildup.... until I have a fire.

 

[shortys7777]

Its just what my local home depot sells instead of rockwool

 

[ADDvanced]

I asked several times but didn't hear an answer. Is there a benefit to shoving the rockwool down the chimney from up top? Or insulating the top cap?

 

[begreen]

I asked several times but didn't hear an answer. Is there a benefit to shoving the rockwool down the chimney from up top? Or insulating the top cap?

There can be, especially when the last 3 ft of the chimney is all that is exposed outdoors. Flue gases will be their coolest at the top end of the flue so insulating the last 3 ft can sometimes help reduce buildup there.

 

[ADDvanced]

Huh. Guess I can always do that next year when I'm cleaning it.

Actually... about cleaning, some people said they need to clean multiple times a season. How does one get on a snowy roof without dying to do so?

 

[moresnow]

Huh. Guess I can always do that next year when I'm cleaning it.

Actually... about cleaning, some people said they need to clean multiple times a season. How does one get on a snowy roof without dying to do so?

Worth researching bottom up cleaning with a "Sooteater" brand flexible rod cleaning kit. Lots of users here have them. Myself included. No more wintertime adventure's on the roof.


Amazon product ASIN B0010H5JXA

 

[bholler]

Huh. Guess I can always do that next year when I'm cleaning it.

Actually... about cleaning, some people said they need to clean multiple times a season. How does one get on a snowy roof without dying to do so?

If burning correctly with good wood and a good install you won't need multiple cleanings a year. The lack of insulation will hurt you a little but you will probably be ok. You can also probably just clean from inside.

 

[ADDvanced]

I have a moisture meter and it seems like it's between 10-18% moisture.

 

[bholler]

I have a moisture meter and it seems like it's between 10-18% moisture.

How are you using your moisture meter. 10% is not possible in most of the US without the use of a kiln.

 

[ADDvanced]

It was on a piece that's been sitting in the sun for months. If I split it I'm sure it'd be more like 15-18%

 

[bholler]

It was on a piece that's been sitting in the sun for months. If I split it I'm sure it'd be more like 15-18%

Testing unsplit means nothing. It could be 15% or 30% no way to know unless you split it open and check.

 

[ADDvanced]

17% on the center if I split something. One was 15% but most are 17ish

 

[bholler]

17% on the center if I split something. One was 15% but most are 17ish

If tested near room temp you are good for sure