Vistaflame VF55, help tuning flame please!

[cwtrials]

Hey guys,

I'm a complete newb at pellet stoves. I could use some wisdom on getting this stove working at it's peak, right now the flame and heat output is definitely not what it should be. I've tried opening and closing the slider damper (and waiting at least 10 minutes before changing it again) with no real luck. Today I opened up the auger cover a bit more (maybe that was a mistake?) Have not had it Mag tuned.

Installed this last week myself. 4" pipe, 2' through the wall then 7' up, no OAK.
Currently running Oakie Black Hills pellets
Using a thermostat

For a bit more help, here's a video of it. This is level 3, Air trim at 3, feed trim at 3, slider damper opened halfway. Heat output isn't that awesome and the flame is well, not really out of the burn pot liner.

Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do? Been thinking about buying a mag. There's a lot of different adjustments and I'd really like to fully understand how to control this thing. No sense switching to pellet if I'm not going to know how to do it properly.

Thanks!

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[cwtrials]

So I opened up the cover plate on the auger a bit more and closed the slider damper all the way, seems to be working somewhat better now. Still, I ordered a mag gauge off of ebay and will be setting it up with that later.

 

[ctdinah]

We are having a similar issue. I am considering buying a mag gauge but not sure how to use it. What is the proper setting when you check the damper?

 

[ohbix]

I too would like a mag gauge. Overwhelmed by choices on eBay. Anyone, which gauges would be suitable for setting up an M55? fyi to the OP I don't have the adjustable auger cover, and on level 2 my flame is high; even higher if I close the damper slightly. Lots of heat on level 2.

 

[batchman]

I took the plunge and bought a ~$40 eBay 0-1.0" water column Dwyer Magnehelic differential pressure gauge, and picked up a Dorman automotive oil pressure gauge install kit mentioned elsewhere in this forum - searching Dorman should turn it up. I can't recall the gauge model # offhand.

I was concerned by the gauge pictures all showing non-zero readings. Turns out the real issue is they have to be zeroed once in position as the mechanism is mechanically sensitive. In other words it's a little hard to hand-hold freestanding and expect accurate results. These are industrial quality instruments and I think if the diaphragm is not broken and the gauge will dial to zero I would have no problem buying one that's been in service 50 years.

For my Maxx-M (same technology as x55), I was worried about my chimney so I made a bracket and mounted it on the back of the stove, using the Dorman copper line to go from the port, eventually found up front and under the ash shelf. Works great and I can dial it right to where it should be (consult manual for your stove). If I had it to do again I would get a 0 to 0.5" sweep since the specified value is low (I think it's .15 to .17 for my stove) and even though the gauge is 4" diameter, at a 0 to 1" range that's pretty fine. If you search my posts you'll find my install thread (progressing ever so slowly) with a pic.

As a differential gauge mine had two ports for + and two for -, paired for use on the side or on the back. You'll have to plug the - port you are not using. If you don't get enough fittings with the gauge and the Dorman kit you'll be fine at your local hardware store.

I think that's about everything I can tell you guys other than it's a great thing to actually know your draft, at least if you're a new stove user/owner such as myself. Whether I still care next year remains to be seen, but for a $50 total investment it's been worth it to me to know that my chimney is drafting well enough without 35' of stainless flex pipe liner.

Cheers,
- Jeff