Vogelzang E2 - twice!

[burkemich]

Hello,
I inherited my VG5790 when we bought this house a few months ago, so I can only say it is less than 15 years old (the age of the house).
It was working very well for the last 6 weeks, after a thorough cleaning, until recently.
Now, I start it up, pellets drop, and within 30 seconds the "E2" error shows.
So, I vacuumed the stove out, pushed a thin wire through the vacuum port, and gently blew/suck the vacuum tube to hear the slight "click".
Still the "E2" pops up very soon after I turn the power on.
I then bypassed the airflow switch with a paperclip and the stove ignited, running well for about 15 - 20 minutes, and shut down with the "E2" error code.
In this last case, the exhaust fan does run during the 15 - 20 minutes.
I'm out of ideas!
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Burke o' Michigan

 

[Ssyko]

check the vent pipe/chimney. pull the combution blower and clean out the chamber it goes in and the blades on the fan

 

[burkemich]

Hey Ssyko,
I pulled the blower and checked/cleaned the path from the burn pot to the blower and blower to the outside (through the vent pipe). There were no obstructions through either path (I'd cleaned those out earlier). The blower itself was cleaned last weekend (but it's been sounding too loud for my comfort), so the blades were in good shape.
However in reassembling the vent pipe (it has two pieces and a wind block), I found that the two pipe chunks were not securely fastened. I twisted those together, reassembled the burner, attached all the wires (removing my paperclip jumper), and started it up.
The initial 30 - 60 second "E2" error did NOT occur!
Unfortunately, the 15-20 minute error DID occur and I was wrong when I previously said the second error was an "E2" error; it is actually an "E3" error (I must not have cleaned out the sleep in my eyes)!
Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[johneh]

The Proof of Fire (POF) thermodisc has possibility malfunctioned. Temporarily bypass the POF thermodisc by disconnecting the two wires and connecting them with a short piece of wire. Then plug the stove back up. If the stove comes on and works, you need to replace the POF thermodisc. This is for testing only. DO NOT LEAVE THE THERMODISC BYPASSED. Your blowers will never shut off, and if the fire went out, the auger will continue to feed pellets until the hopper is empty with the POF thermodisc bypassed. Unplug the stove when
you are doing the bypass Do not let it short out. Plug stove in to do the test.
If the stove works Ok no error code then replace the thermodisc

 

[tlc1976]

What kind of pellets are you running? My stove is the little sibling of the 5790. With Kirtland pellets it didn’t run well and got E3 often. With Pro Pellets it runs like a million bucks. These stoves don’t have much adjustments so some pellets will run well and some just won’t run.

Does the stove have an outside air kit installed? Mine wouldn’t run without it. You could try cracking a window and if that makes the error stop happening, it needs the outside air kit.

The thermodisc switch above the exhaust blower is a possibility as mentioned. It could be bad or just dirty. It gets a layer of crud built up which can insulate the switch from the temperature it should see. Pull the switch and clean the surface. I do this every time I clean the pipe and blower housing.

 

[burkemich]

Morning,
I tried bypassing the POF disc and still received the "E3" after the stove ran 15 - 30 minutes (that disc was replaced last month).
I don't have an outside air kit installed, but it ran well for about 6 - 8 weeks prior to this - the only difference being it's a bit colder now than it was earlier!
I will try cleaning the exhaust disc (never tried that!) and see what happens.
One thing I noticed is that the exhaust blower is sounding WAY too loud (compared to as recent as last week)! Could a failing exhaust blower be causing the "E3"?
I'm going to take it out and lube/clean what I can to see if it runs any better, later today. Not eager to switch it out on a whim since they run $300+!
Thanks for the help

 

[Ssyko]

In case your shopping this will work. I have them in about 18 stoves

(broken link removed to https://pellet-stove-parts-4less.com/products/aftermarket-exhaust-blower-motor-amp-pp7613?gclid=CjwKCAiAxeX_BRASEiwAc1QdkaHvn1I5Ejq4FaBiDB3-N8Q22ihBseF3PNmVROvPU9Oig58sHsHzPxoC840QAvD_BwE)

 

[burkemich]

Thanks for the lead on an affordable blower motor.
Even if mine does quiet down after clean/lube, I'm guessing it's on it's way out anyways.

 

[tlc1976]

Yes a failing motor could be dragging and not spinning as fast as it should. And therefore not creating the airflow it should.

 

[Joe.G]

I have had my stove since 2014 and burn between 4 to 6 Tons of pellets a year though it. I really like this stove as it heats my 2,600 SF home without issue. I have found that is very important to keep this stove clean, I use air and blow out alot of the passages I can't see. I pull exhaust motor off and clean/Blow it out in there a few times a season. The motor on mine gets noise at times and I have replaced it once with another factory motor I do see there are cheaper options. I spray a Teflon Slick 50 spray on the bearing motor area ( I found this last the lowest usually about once a month I spray a drop ) . I am also getting a E3 this season on and off I do have a new sensor to try and I may have to replace the motor again.

Anyone have any thoughts on aftermarket switches ? Any ones to stay away from? Price difference is a lot. I do have a new OEM switch here now. Also what about Gaskets can't find any for the switch. OP I'll keep you updated and can you keep me as well. My E3 will do it a couple times in a row and then run fine for weeks.

 

[burkemich]

Update: I disassembled the exhaust motor and it was in bad shape - it squealed when I manually spun it, AFTER lubricating. I'll put the new one in when it comes in later this week and post how it runs after reassembly. Note, I did clean-off the exhaust disc and it was covered thickly by soot - so hopefully that will help, too.

 

[Joe.G]

Run the old motor for a bit and see if it stays quite and keep the other for a spare. Mine has been making noise for 2 years now but a few squirts a season and it stays quiet.

 

[burkemich]

Hello, all.
All is well!
I replaced the exhaust motor (and it is SO VERY quiet), cleaned off the exhaust motor therm-disc (it was HEAVILY coated with soot), reconnected any/all bypassed switches.
The burner has ran flawlessly for 3 days AND when I did turn it off, it properly ran the exhaust fan to get all the smoke out of the burner (instead of leaking into the house).
I appreciate all your help and suggestions and will regal you with the nightmare of getting the baked-on impeller blade off of the old exhaust motor shaft another day!
Take care,
Burke

 

[Ssyko]

Thanks for stopping in and letting us know how you made out Burk. Im glad it working the way it is supposed to again. Yes them old impeller blade are a challenge to say the least. Enjoy the heat

 

[Joe.G]

My New motor came with a new impeller, I tried to take the old one off and messed it up.

 

[tlc1976]

Glad to hear you got it going well.

I’ve taken my impeller wheel off to clean it and get some oil in the bearings. The setscrew gets really stuck. It’s a torx screw. Actually just last week I had to oil it as it was starting to make some noise. Quiet now but first time I had to oil it in 5 years. I do have a spare on hand.