Wagner Power Sprayer

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Todd

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Nov 19, 2005
10,620
NW Wisconsin
Anyone have a review or comments on these? I'm thinking of painting the house this Spring and thought it might save some time and headaches with brushes and rollers.
 
Well, I got one about 13 years ago to do the same project and I was thinking just like you. I saw the commercials and figured it would just save all this time. Some observations...1) The time saved messing with brushes and rollers will be replaced with time spent messing around with thinning the paint, 2)disassembling the sprayer and cleaning it, 3) Worrying about overspray 4) Worrying about overspray mist settling on everything in the area including your neighbor's new car. 5) the paint dripping everywhere as you try to get it into cracks and whatnot and about half a dozen other things I can't even recall anymore. I just remember it turned into more hassle then it was worth and when I painted the house again a few years ago I didn't even consider using that thing...if that tells you anything. The one semi-successful project I used it for was primering an old firebird I had before selling it and even then the clouds of ultra-fine mist the thing produces were hanging in the air and settling on everything. :shut:
 
I thought they were airless sprayers and didn't produce overspray?
 
Lol...I don't know what they call them or remember the technology, I know it was electric. I can rummage around the garage and try and find the thing to look at it but it was a higher-priced Wagner model that I got at home depot in the mid-90s. They may call it airless because you don't hook air to it like a body shop sprayer but I can tell you with a confident amount of certainty that paint and paint mist goes everywhere. On a still day, I could see it hanging in the air and slowly engulfing everything including my neighbor's yard and car. Several weeks later, I found overspray on a car in my garage that wasn't being used and spent the good part of a day compounding it out. :shut: I dunno...like I said, I followed the directions and even still it turned into much bigger of a hassle then it was worth and I don't think it paints all that great either. I don't know what your surface is but I have wood shingles and of course the surface is inconsistent especially when you have to sand and scrape. It just doesn't do a good job unless the surface is nice and flat.
 
I bought one about 10 years ago. A real POS. As mentioned above you spend allot of time prepping the area and the equipment you could do a better job, faster, with brushs and rollers.

Ryan
 
I love mine! BUT, I use it in the shop and out doors painting truck frames and bodies.When outdoors I make sure I'm at least 50' away from anything and have had no problems with overspray. Have never used it indoors .
 
Thanks for the replys,
I have wood siding (T-111) so it has those 1"grooves every 12" or so. It looks like it could be a real pain with brushes and rollers, but I don't want a big overspray mess either. Good thing the weather isn't cooperating, it will give me more time to think about it.
 
Wagner makes/has made a lot of different sprayers for different applications. I've owned 3 of them, including two hand-held models (one of which could be rigged to take a suction on a can I wasn't carrying around), and one big guy that sat on the floor and could take a suction on a 5-gallon bucket so all I was carrying around was the gun (dragging a lot of hose). In the proper environment they work just fine. I also have some experience spraying cars & stuff, with the old high-pressure systems (Binks guns, in my case) and the newer HVLP systems (I have DeVilbiss). Compressed air or no compressed air, if you're spraying paint, there's gonna be overspray, and you need to plan for it and deal with it (masking/protective clothing/whatever). The Wagner I've got right now is a "Control Spray" HVLP hand-held unit with a cup that holds 1½ quarts. Works just fine. Rick
 
I used one of the smaller Wagner power painters to paint a house. This was one of the smaller, completely hand-held units. It worked okay, you do get overspray, and I found it to be quite noisy.
 
You want silence, use a brush or roller (as I very often do). You want production, use a sprayer. With a sprayer, if you're going up on a ladder, there's just one thing to take with you. Not true with brush/roller. When it's running, the HVLP hand-held unit sounds more like a little vacuum cleaner than the really annoying buzzing sound of the older airless units. Doesn't matter to me one way or the other, I don't sell anything...just try to fit my tools to the jobs. Rick
 
Todd said:
Thanks for the replys,
I have wood siding (T-111) so it has those 1"grooves every 12" or so. It looks like it could be a real pain with brushes and rollers, but I don't want a big overspray mess either. Good thing the weather isn't cooperating, it will give me more time to think about it.

I also have the textured plywood (not T-111, but similar), and I find it necessary to brush each groove. After that, it can be rolled. I've always felt that simple overspray won't hit that groove hard enough, so have never sprayed it.

My house is an easy 1 story paint job, so I guess I can tolerate a little extra.

Most of my spraying has been automotive type, with a traditional compressed air unit, FWIW.
 
You can spray it and then "back-brush" it. Not difficult. There are a number of ways to get the job done. If I was using water-based paint/stain (which is about all I ever use anymore), and had a large area to do, I'd seriously consider spraying/back-brushing (if necessary). Small area...brush/roller fer sure. Oil-based, a sprayer's a real pain to clean up after the job's done. Rick
 
I have used both the hand held, which can be a POS, and I bought a Wagner "Paint Crew" system last year. Sprayed all the pine T&G;ceiling & walls with water based poly. Was easy, sure it takes some time to clean it up, but also takes time to clean brushes & rollers, unless you toss em every time. If you use the right tip for the pain, the overspray is not that bad. And its dry long before it settles on anything within 20 feet. At that point its just dust.
It costs more than the hand held, but also does a nicer job and does not drip.
I painted my last house exterior which was a rough stucco, with a wager power roller, MUCH easier than a regular roller. Used a thick nap and it covered no problem.
If you going to brush the grooves and roll or spray the main, I suggest brushing the grooves first. Any brush streaks will show up less once rolled or sprayed over. Of course with a sprayer you may not need much brushing at all. Either the sprayer or power roller beats a regular roller or brush hands down. Cleaning or no cleaning. No up & down the ladder as much, or worrying bout drips or a ladder hooked bucket spilling.
If you get a spray system with a line & spray gun separate from the paint container, do yourself a favor and get the swivel adapter, that way the line wont get all twisted up on ya.
 
The "Wagner" Control spray unit I have won`t push latex. Great for controlled enviroment oil-based projects, stains and sealers. Overspray as mentioned must be accounted for by shielding, unless as mentioned it has a distance to fall and time to dry. Spraying siding use the can suction option, but dont lose prime or the gun will have to be broke down and cleaned, then reprimed. (That was a 6 year ago model) Have a 1 year old sprayer haven`t used yet, maybe not the same. Just figure how to thin one quart for a good spray pattern then use that formula to mix all the paint at once. (saves time) You`l need to use it all soon though, so have everything ready.Or only mix what you will be spraying with the time you have. (weekend) You can keep a water spray bottle and toothbrush in your pocket for the globs which form on the tip. Mix with big paddle and electric drill, (unless you have those super batteries.) My next one will be a "crew type" (My times worth something...can always sell it and re-coop some money)
The oil-based clean up goes better with compressed air toothpicks, q-tips, toothbrush, and aerosol parts cleaner,,(plastic hods up fairly well to the aggressive chemical) The key to spraying is maintaining a good site angle, so you are actually watchig the paint being applied. The oval tip pattern would work well for a first coat to the 1" area, while you get the hang of the gun. They have additives which allow more lap time (slower drying) If I`m too late to help,,,maybe someone else will benefit!
 
If you're thinking of the Wagner Paint Crew, save yourself the money and headache and DON'T! It is an expensive POS that will cost you more time than rolling alone. Cleanup is a real PITA since quite a bit of paint is left in the hopper when it is "empty" and you never really get the lines cleaned. The pump mechanism gets clogged easily and is diffucult to clear. Personally, spend the few extra bucks and get a smaller Graco (or similar) HVLP sprayer. Be sure to invest in plenty of paint, paper and spray shields as you will have overspray to contend with.
 
fossil said:
You can spray it and then "back-brush" it. Not difficult. There are a number of ways to get the job done. If I was using water-based paint/stain (which is about all I ever use anymore), and had a large area to do, I'd seriously consider spraying/back-brushing (if necessary). Small area...brush/roller fer sure. Oil-based, a sprayer's a real pain to clean up after the job's done. Rick

Exactly - spray and then brush it out. Pretty simple but buy good brushes. I would get something other than the Wagner if you are doing your house...
 
Good to know thanks joe
 
I spent one summer working for a new construction painter and had the opportunity to work with some higher $$ HVLP sprayers. When I went to repaint our first house, I figured I would try the paint crew since I knew I couldn't convince the missus to spend the $$ for a good HVLP sprayer. After the first day of spraying, we took the wagner back to the local big-box home improvement store and returned it. We completed painting the rest of the house with rollers and brushes since the wagner was such a headache. I have since found a used Graco HVLP sprayer that was used the past summer to repaint the house... exponentially better performance and cleanup. (be sure to get plenty of pump armor for storage) But of course, you WILL have overspray. Figure on spending at least $100 for tape and paper to mask off what you don't want painted.

If you're willing to have sore arms, a deep knap roller works on T-111 siding pretty well and those are a lot cheaper than a HVLP sprayer. It all depends on how much time you have to paint, how much work you're willing to do and how much $$ you want to spend. I have repainted barns with rollers in a day, but wasn't concerned about slop.
 
I used to paint houses and will tell you that any and every product made by wagner is flat out crap. Spend more and get real paint equipment, not the fisher price junk that wagner makes.
 
I have a Graco and it is extremely versatile. The prep/clean up is almost always worth the effort unless it is a very small job or you are trying to work in an occupied space. There is a nozzle for just about any application: Kilz, drywall prep, trim, drop ceilings, brick, etc. When I gut a house, I spray the ceiling of the basement glossy white before the mechanicals go in with it. It works very well in spaces that you can't run out quickly with a roller.

I wear a bunny suit, long rubber gloves, head sock, booties and a full face respirator whenever I spray. If you choose to spray, I highly recommend it. Also highly recommended is that your space be perfectly clean before you start spraying or you will quickly find any and all loose debris and dirt everywhere.
 
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