Wall Pass-Through Question

[travisk]

We just bought a house that had an old Selkirk Troubadour wood stove that the previous owners said they used all the time. We replaced it with a new unit and had a question about the pass through on the exterior wall. It looks like they used a section designed for non-combustible walls. Just wondering what your guys thoughts/recommendations are. Thanks in advance.

 

[begreen]

The class A pipe they used requires a minimum of 2" clearance from any and all combustibles. That includes drywall paper, studs, lath, etc..The install is missing the wall thimble that would ensure these clearances.

 

[travisk]

Is there anyway to install the thimble without pulling everything apart on the exterior?

 

[begreen]

Prolly not, the thimble needs a larger hole through the wall. Check out the directions provided by the chimney maker.

 

[billb3]

That's an exterior wall in the pic ?

It looks like sheet rock, especially with the sheet rock dimpled nails on the bottom.

 

[madison]

Check the first posting in the link in my signature below, it has pictures of the wall thimble which encloses the class A.

IMHO you will need to frame the wall to mount the thimble.

 

[travisk]

The pic is the interior wall. The previous owners framed another section of wall so there wouldn't be a ledge where the foundation top is. The clearances are off on everything. I pull the drywall (yes, they nailed it on) and found a stud 1" from the pipe. I'd feel better if I just opened up the whole thing and started over.

 

[MDFisherman]

get the wall thimble and reframe the opening. If they put it in that hastily, i'm sure it needs some improvements done to the outside anyways.

 

[travisk]

So I pulled the exterior section that the chimney is framed into and found that it was piss-poorly put in also. I know I have to get the thimble in there and install a T to replace the current 90 degree that's in there now. Is the 1" insulated Class A chimney up to today's codes? I can fix the clearence issues but I really can't afford to replace the whole chimney before winter gets here. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Post a new picture or two of the issues you have uncovered. An exterior shot would help too.

Here is an article that should be helpful in pointing out the right way to do this:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

 

[travisk]

 

[begreen]

Yup, you weren't kidding. This is a disaster waiting to happen. I suspect that is not even class A pipe and with direct contact to wood no less. Can you read the pipe brand and specs on that tag on the elbow? Bad news I'm afraid.

 

[travisk]

Any way to tell if it is Class A pipe?

 

[begreen]

I don't think it's class A. They don't make 90 deg. elbows for class A. Look at that label and tell us what it says on it. Maybe also take a picture of the top cap and then pull the the cap and take a top down view shot.

 

[skinanbones]

It's what I would refer to as class A if I came across it in a home. Anything older than 5 years and with a 1 inch wall (except for ICC Excel) there is a good chance its cert as class A. It appears to be either Selkirk or GSW and I don't think that's a 90 it's more than likely 2 45's to create a 90. Unfortunately it will all have to come out and be replace correctly with S2100 chimney

 

[begreen]

It looks like the stub coming out of the wall might be class A, but on the chase side that is something else. No matter what it is, the pipe should never come in direct contact with wood. That is a seriously unsafe installation.

 

[Tenn Dave]

Here are some pictures I have of a thimble installation. Hopefully it will be of some help.

 

[travisk]

Thanks for the pictures, Dave. So IF the pipe is Class A (it appears to be the same pipe for the entire run) and I install the proper wall supports and maintain the 2" clearance, would the chimney meet Canadian code after the thimble is installed?

 

[skinanbones]

unfortunately that age of class A is only certified for oil or gas, as it doesn't meet the S-2100 standard. So no under Canadian code you can't run a woodstove under it. Even if you do the thimble right and keep the clearances and add the wall band. That age and brand just was not certified for wood heat use.

 

[travisk]

Thanks for all the input guys. I guess I'll just add that to the to-do list.

 

[Tenn Dave]

Thanks for all the input guys. I guess I'll just add that to the to-do list.

Well it seems the list never gets any shorter. At least you came to the right place. When it comes to safety, these guys really know their stuff. I know this site has been very helpful to me.

 

[travisk]

So a bit of an update and a new question. I pulled the old piping out and I'm starting to install new S-2100 piping. I measured the chase going up the exterior of the house and found it's 1.5" to small for the new chimney (it's only 13" deep and I need at least 14.5"). My question is how important is it to enclose the chimney? I know it keeps the piping somewhat insulated and warmer to promote better draft and less creosote build up but is it absolutely necessary? Will I get massive amounts of creosote? I would prefer to just tear the chase off and rebuild it next summer. What do you guys think?

 

[begreen]

Class A double wall is 8" OD typically. It needs 2" clearance or 12" total. Are you using triple-wall instead?

 

[travisk]

It's 2" insulated pipe. Is that considered triple wall? It was the only thing anyone carries around here for piping.

 

[begreen]

That sounds like triple wall. What is the full brand name and manufacturer of the pipe? Where did you get it?