water heater wiring

[RustyShackleford]

I'm trying to install this small water-heater, and I'm a little perplexed about how the wiring should be attached. There's a small hole (see picture) just to the right of the access cover (for the thermostat and heating element). The hole looks like where a Romex clamp should be installed (you can even see where you can knock it out for a bigger size clamp). But there's no way to access the locknut for a clamp, other than by sticking your finger through from the access panel opening and trying to hold it tight enough to lock it in place by rotating the outside part of the clamp). Worse still, the threaded body of a clamp would stick in close enough to the metal plate (you can see behind the clamp through the hole) that there's hardly room for the wires to go left to the access area - even though I'm only using 12-2 (it's 240v/3500w). I guess I could use one of the little plastic Romex connectors, like:

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Topaz-45...7xcCnGf1V5f_o8_rHM-zDEBZbkVsUNQyN0aAoza8P8HAQ

... but those seem pretty half-assed for a water heater. I guess, since the standard configuration for this unit is 120v/1500w (I special-ordered the higher wattage) that they figure you'll be using 14ga wire, but still ...

 

[mcdougy]

I'm trying to install this small water-heater, and I'm a little perplexed about how the wiring should be attached. There's a small hole (see picture) just to the right of the access cover (for the thermostat and heating element). The hole looks like where a Romex clamp should be installed (you can even see where you can knock it out for a bigger size clamp). But there's no way to access the locknut for a clamp, other than by sticking your finger through from the access panel opening and trying to hold it tight enough to lock it in place by rotating the outside part of the clamp). Worse still, the threaded body of a clamp would stick in close enough to the metal plate (you can see behind the clamp through the hole) that there's hardly room for the wires to go left to the access area - even though I'm only using 12-2 (it's 240v/3500w). I guess I could use one of the little plastic Romex connectors, like:

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Topaz-45...7xcCnGf1V5f_o8_rHM-zDEBZbkVsUNQyN0aAoza8P8HAQ

... but those seem pretty half-assed for a water heater. I guess, since the standard configuration for this unit is 120v/1500w (I special-ordered the higher wattage) that they figure you'll be using 14ga wire, but still ...

Do not be worried about the plastic wire holders, they work well and are very common here. In fact they MUST be used on all electrical panels now here in ontario. They hold wire just fine.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Do not be worried about the plastic wire holders, they work well and are very common here. In fact they MUST be used on all electrical panels now here in ontario.

Really ? You mean the metal ones are no longer permissible ?

 

[johneh]

The metal one are Ok and permissible
But our code also says we can use plastic ones
A lot nicer to use

 

[fbelec]

looks like what you said. i have never seen one there. show a top view. if there is no hole on top like every other common water heater than that must be it.

 

[RustyShackleford]

looks like what you said. i have never seen one there. show a top view. if there is no hole on top like every other common water heater than that must be it.

There are no holes whatsoever in the top of the heater. I think this is fairly common on small "utility" units like this.

 

[sportbikerider78]

Take off that panel on the left and have a good looksee

 

[RustyShackleford]

Another issue came up ...

This unit comes standard with 1500watt heating element (120v, I believe), but was special-ordered to be 3500watts/240v. (The idea is that such a small tank and such a high wattage can recover so quickly that it's kinda like a tankless unit, without the enormous electrical load). The shipper made a mistake and it has the standard element. I'm wondering if it can be fixed simply by installing the correct heating element, or if there might be something about the thermostat, or (worse still) the internal wiring, that would require the entire unit to be swapped out. Tech service at Bradford-White refers me to the regional rep, which is kinda discouraging: if tech support at the mother-ship doesn't know, who would ?

 

[RustyShackleford]

Take off that panel on the left and have a good looksee

I did, and it;s like I said.

 

[fbelec]

as long as the thermostat is rated for more wattage you are good to go. one wire goes directly to the element the other is routed thru the tstat. what is the tank size 15 or 20 gallon? if you are going to exchange the element yourself tell the guy at the parts warehouse to give you a thermostat while he's at it. he'll either give you one or tell you it's the same unit. i'm not 100% but i think it's the same piece.

 

[RustyShackleford]

It's been pointed out to me (elsewhere) that changing out the heating element would probably violate the UL listing (and at best, the label on the tank would no longer be accurate). So I'm going to return the thing and get one from AO Smith instead. I've been very unfavorably impressed with Bradford-White as a consequence of this experience. I'm pretty sure the fault is their's (not the vendor's) and they've completely given me the run-around (called tech support to ask about the thermostat replacement issue, and they told me I needed to talk to the regional rep).

Anyhow, the issue of how to run the wiring will hopefully be irrelvant with the AO Smith.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[RustyShackleford]

I ended up getting two more BW units before I ended up with one that was configured properly and un-damaged - but only paying about half the price.

This connector, rec'ed at Mike Holt's forum, worked perfectly for the wiring:

(broken link removed to http://www.mwelectricmfg.com/downloads/M%20&%20W%20Catalog%202009%20BX-Romex%20Connectors.pdf)

... scroll down to part # TIC-50.