Water (ice) on fireplace floor in closed, unheated cabin

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guy48065

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Aug 21, 2008
31
Thumb, MI
My summer cottage has been closed up with power & heat off since early October. I went up to check on things and the only issue found was some water frozen on the brick floor of the brick surround. The brick & mortar all look fine, no cracks or obvious signs of a leak. Can this be from condensation in an uninsulated cabin where the inside temp is nearly the same as the outside temp? This is located in northern Michigan and it was 22F INside the cabin.
I'm stumped.

A picture of the brickwork:
[Hearth.com] Water (ice) on fireplace floor in closed, unheated cabin
 
That's a VC DV stove - Stardance maybe? Was the pilot on when you were away?
Is there evidence of water running down the vent & into the intake or exhaust on the unit?
Is the water running down the outside of the pipe?
Is your cap horizontally mounted & facing the west?
Heavy snowstorms or rainstorms may have blown some precipitation into the cap & it may have found a way to reach the floor using your DV pipe as a channel...
Maybe check the bottom rear of the stove for evidence of water (i.e. staining)...
Good luck with your investigation & let us know what you find...
 
DAKSY said:
That's a VC DV stove - Stardance maybe?
1 - Was the pilot on when you were away?
2 - Is there evidence of water running down the vent & into the intake or exhaust on the unit?
3 - Is the water running down the outside of the pipe?
4 - Is your cap horizontally mounted & facing the west?
Heavy snowstorms or rainstorms may have blown some precipitation into the cap & it may have found a way to reach the floor using your DV pipe as a channel...
Maybe check the bottom rear of the stove for evidence of water (i.e. staining)...
Good luck with your investigation & let us know what you find...
1 - Gas valve off.
2 - Not immediately apparent--I'll have to look more closely (move the stove) next time. The stack is old installation--all I did was run the liner.
3 - The gas pipe is caulked where it enters the brick.
4 - Not sure exactly what you mean. The cap is a high wind cap (Simpson) & vertical.

It was a big PITA to install the liner and connect it to the cap & the stove adapter. Distressing to think that's possibly where the water is coming in.

Don't wait for a follow-up investigation ;-) It'll probably be a couple months before I go up again. The water isn't a real big deal to me but I was concerned it might be a brick problem & could get worse. I like my stove (yes-Stardance) & the look of the brick but that big uninsulated brick surround sure takes a long time to warm up. Efficiency probably wasn't a thought and codes were non-existent back when this place was built.
 
Hey, guy48065
<>1 - Gas valve off.<>

OK...was thinking maybe some ice build up on the cap & the small amount of heat from the pilot caused a melting

<>2 - Not immediately apparent--I'll have to look more closely (move the stove) next time. The stack is old installation--all I did was run the liner.<>

OK...If the water ran down somewhere, it'd leave a trail of deposits

<>3 - The gas pipe is caulked where it enters the brick.<>

Eliminates THAT one!

<>4 - Not sure exactly what you mean. The cap is a high wind cap (Simpson) & vertical.<>

My Bad. I could see it went horizontal but I didn't realize you'd run a masonry adapter/liner

<>It was a big PITA to install the liner and connect it to the cap & the stove adapter. Distressing to think that's possibly where the water is coming in.<>

Yeah, been there...when you were installing the cap, how did the "mudcap" look? That's generally where the leakage occurs...The seam where the mudcap meets the terra cotta flue tile is generally where the first water penetration is...It'll get in a little ways & freeze & make the seam a gap & more water & more freezin & you get the pic...
Quick fix is good ole 30 year clear GE silicone...GOOB it on liberally & you can avoid getting a mason up there for a while...

<>Don't wait for a follow-up investigation ;-) It'll probably be a couple months before I go up again. The water isn't a real big deal to me but I was concerned it might be a brick problem & could get worse. I like my stove (yes-Stardance) & the look of the brick but that big uninsulated brick surround sure takes a long time to warm up. Efficiency probably wasn't a thought and codes were non-existent back when this place was built.<.

K...but like I said above, freeze/thaw cycles can cause mor than a little bit of damage once a leak starts...
 
The fit/seal of the mudcap to the concrete looked good. Not as sure about the fit of the chimney pipe to the mudcap collar. It's tight but can be rocked (no screws) but is too heavy to lift & inspect further. I've bought a wall collar to stabilize the chimney pipe by clamping it to the fascia boards up at the roof peak. Al that's there now are 2 flimsy guy wires.

If water is getting in at the mudcap (or anywhere along the old chimney pipe) it would drip from the boilerplate box at the bottom of the chimney. If the leak is in the liner it will run straight to the stove & drip from the combustion chamber. I should be able to tell the difference by moving the stove. Or maybe laying newspaper down to see where drips start. (?)
One question: Does the combustion chamber have a gap where water can run out to the floor??
 
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