Water Leaking from Stovepipe

[Clofgreen]

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Hi, new to wood stoves so I hope this isn't too obvious.

Our wood stove pipe is leaking water when it rains. I got up on the roof and took the following pictures. I assume the leak is caused by the large gap between the skirt thing and the metal thing. Any suggestions how I can fix this? Thank you. Craig

 

[begreen]

Not too sure about the improvised flashing, but it looks like this needs a storm collar on the pipe above the flashing. Put a generous bead of silicone on the storm collar around the chimney pipe and finger trowel it in. I'd also put a dab of silicone on each of the tab slots on the flashing.
https://www.northlineexpress.com/6-selkirk-storm-collar-206810.html

 

[webby3650]

Everything appears to be correct. They did an absolutely terrible job of sealing the storm collar to the pipe. It needs a generous amount of silicone added above the collar and down the seams in it. Having that locking band right there makes it kind of tough, I’d seal over the top of it too.
The chase top should have a flange around the pipe preventing water finding a way in under the storm collar, that’s why it’s got a gap on the bottom side.

 

[AlbergSteve]

That storm collar either needs to be above the locking band or below it... or you're going to need a lot more silicone! If this a new install by a contractor, make HIM come back and fix it. I'd like to see a picture of the flashing under the storm collar - bet there isn't an upstand around the opening. If that's the case, you'll have driven rain under the collar and leaks will appear somewhere else.

 

[begreen]

That storm collar either needs to be above the locking band or below it...

That's why I suggested adding a storm collar above the flashing and locking band.

 

[webby3650]

That's why I suggested adding a storm collar above the flashing and locking band.

Or a better storm collar. I hate those metalbestos storm collars. They are way too steep.

 

[Clofgreen]

Thank you all for the responses. Two more questions:

1. Before I add silicone should I remove the storm collar and take a picture and post what's there? So far the only leaks are what I posted.
2. Is the silicone just the regular kind or is there a heat tolerant type?

Craig

 

[webby3650]

It would be nice if you took the collar off just to see.
Any silicone works fine in this location, it doesn’t get very hot at all.

 

[webby3650]

Remember to tool the silicone with your finger. It’s very important! It won’t hurt you, you can touch it. So many people pump it on, and that’s it. It won’t adhere properly unless you work it in.

 

[Clofgreen]

Great. I will do this. Thank you very much.

Also, should I add another collar as begreen suggested?

Craig

 

[webby3650]

Great. I will do this. Thank you very much.

Also, should I add another collar as begreen suggested?

Craig

No, just get a better storm collar, or silicone it better. Dura-vent collars are my favorite.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I also covered the seam with aluminum tape. It's just 1 more layer of protection...

 

[webby3650]

Either way, I’d put silicone on the top side of that locking band.

 

[webby3650]

I also covered the seam with aluminum tape. It's just 1 more layer of protection...

 

[EatenByLimestone]

The tape came into play when I'd find water spots on the top of the stove. The chimney in question is open to wind blown rain coming down a few miles of lake and smacking my chimney. I wanted to rule out wind pushing rain up under the collar.

 

[Jan Pijpelink]

The tape came into play when I'd find water spots on the top of the stove. The chimney in question is open to wind blown rain coming down a few miles of lake and smacking my chimney. I wanted to rule out wind pushing rain up under the collar.

Same thing here. Added the tape as well.

 

[AlbergSteve]

Thank you all for the responses. Two more questions:

1. Before I add silicone should I remove the storm collar and take a picture and post what's there? So far the only leaks are what I posted.
2. Is the silicone just the regular kind or is there a heat tolerant type?

Craig

You have to move it or add one, might as well take it off and see what's under it...pics please!

 

[Clofgreen]

Here's what I found under the skirt.

 

[begreen]

No raised lip to divert the water from the pipe, just more sloppy caulking.

 

[bholler]

Here's what I found under the skirt.View attachment 230787

There is the problem. You need a raised lip around that chimney.

 

[Clofgreen]

Is a raised lip something I can buy or am I just going to have to trowel in a bunch of silicone?

 

[Rickb]

I used a hammer and tapped around the hole before inserting the pipe to raise the lip up some so water doesn't flow into it. Not sure how you would do it with the pipe installed.

 

[begreen]

Is this a new installation that was paid for recently? If so, they should come back and make this right. If is and older install then you'll have to decide whether to fix short term or permanently. It's not ideal but to get through the season you could clean off the old caulk then lay a very thick bead of good quality silicone and finger trowel it smoothly about 1/2" high.

 

[bholler]

Is a raised lip something I can buy or am I just going to have to trowel in a bunch of silicone?

Pull the chase cover and use a ball peen hammer to make a lip. Unlessit is a new installation then make the contractor do it right

 

[Clofgreen]

The install was three years ago. Tried to contact the installer but he's long gone. I will do as you have suggested and form a lip then caulk the dickens out of it.

Thank you all for your very helpful responses.

Craig