How are these gaskets from the manufacturers so expensive??? A 5/8” x 1/8” flat gasket is available from non factory suppliers in bulk for 1/5th of the price. Is there a difference? From the photo it looks the same.
What’s the deal with the price of gaskets???
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I just read that garden gnomes were going through a crisis due to the suez canal. Maybe gaskets were on the same boat.
The operative word is manufacture. If you believe you need get the part from them, you will pay. There are a few different gasket constructions. But I've never had a issue with any of them.
Woody5506
Minister of Fire
the little baffle gaskets on my T5 are a rip off too, about $5 each last time I bought them from my dealer. That was pre covid so now I wouldn't be surprised if they were $8 each. It's basically a rip off but I tend to just see it as the one sacrificial part of my stove I have to replace annually. So in the realm of it all I don't mind it that much. Once I do mind the price, I'll just make my own as others have already been doing for years.
I dropped my baffle once and replaced them then. Since then I have been able to satisfactorily clean above the baffle through the collar above. Am I missing something on cleaning the stove? There really hasn't been much up there... a bit of soot builds up as I clean the chimney top down.
Dealer markup. It's kind of like printer cartridges. Back when I was buying them for the T6 the baffle gaskets were around $11 for a 3 pack. About 4 yrs ago I made a Hogwildz special gasket and have not needed a new one since.
That said, I stand behind purchasing OEM door gaskets. There is a big difference in construction from the hardware stove variety make by Rutland, Meeco, etc. The OEM door gasket for the PE is ouch-expensive, $35 the last time I got one, but it lasts for 7-8 yrs. and the others just don't seal right.
MongoMongoson
Feeling the Heat
I don't think you are missing anything, but people who are cleaning from below using a soot eater will be taking the baffle out every time they clean. I bought some aftermarket baffle gaskets, I think they were around $3.50 each but they aren't made from butterfly wings like the OEM baffle gaskets so I think I'll be able to get through more than one cleaning from each gasket.
I can see begreen's point on the door gasket. That one is more critical, because the density and weave will create more or less force during compression when the door closes. I'll probably go OEM with that if I ever need to replace it. My All Nighter was 40 years old when it was retired and that door gasket still sealed wonderfully.
Woody5506
Minister of Fire
Yup and I like my dealer, I never have questioned their prices really. What could they possibly be making off an OEM baffle gasket? MAYBE a couple bucks each? I really get kinda paranoid about all this stuff working properly so I've never tried to cut costs with it and have yet to replace the door gasket, but when the time comes I'll gladly spend a bit extra on the OEM. It just seems like such a crucial part of the stove, it doesn't seem worth it to save $10-20ish on a cheaper one. The baffle gasket does seem a bit less important considering the OEM gasket is in fact garbage. Someday I'll make that Hogwildz gasket.
One of the best rope gasket I got is the : Bronze Rope , from Meeco's Heat Safe, Seatle, WA. I had to changed the front door gaskets on my Hearthstone stoves when the were new, The liquid cement used by the manufacturer was soaked in the rope making them too hard for a good sealing. When replacing the rope gaskets I use HT Silicone to hold the gasket, much more flexible than the other cements...
Agreed that RTV silicone makes a better door gasket adhesive. Many manufacturers have switched to this.
That said, there are different configurations for gasket seals. The T6 has a flat face seal. The Summit has a knife-edge seal. It could be the Meeco is just poor for the flat face seal. I did not try it with a knife-edge seal.
For our stove, that is the worst I tried. It was too stiff and could not make a good seal causing it to leak badly. The first test fire with it went nuclear and there was little I could do besides ride it out. The second smaller fire was like the first, dangerously poor control over the fire. Ironically, the Meeco gasket was bought from Sutter Home in Seattle, a PE dealership but they had no OEM PE gaskets. We stopped burning until the OEM arrived a couple of days later from Tom Oyen's Chimneysweep shop. The OEM was a day and night difference in construction and sealing. It performs perfectly still.
That said, there are different configurations for gasket seals. The T6 has a flat face seal. The Summit has a knife-edge seal. It could be the Meeco is just poor for the flat face seal. I did not try it with a knife-edge seal.
dyerkutn
Feeling the Heat
I am interested in this conversation because I think it is the "baffle" gasket on my T5 that has basically turned brittle and crunched off. Is this the one that wraps over the edge of the glass? It looks like replacing it involves taking off the glass. I am not a DIYer so I called a company to fix it and replace some of my broken firebricks but they are going to charge me a ridiculous amount of money. Do anyone know of someone in the Boston area who does such work without being part of a big company. Also, how critical is it to repair. It is only the part along the bottom of the glass that has broken off. Also, if I want to replace bricks without having to cut them should I order from the company. I suppose I can replace those myself since they only have to slide in.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
My suggestion is to DIY thers a labor shortage. People are waiting a long time to get service and are being charged alot of money for labor. Some of the work you need is not that difficult..Me personally. I'd do it myself...
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A tight sealing door gasket is critical to the proper functioning of the stove. Wish I was closer, this is a simple job. Takes about 30 minutes usually. Likewise, firebrick replacement is pretty simple. How badly broken are the bricks and where are they located?
Is there a regular chimneysweep that cleans the flue system on the stove? That would be the one to ask first.
dyerkutn
Feeling the Heat
No the chimney sweep does not do work on the stove. The bricks and regular gasket around the door I can do myself but taking out the glass to put in the baffle I cannot do. Thanks for the advice.
dyerkutn
Feeling the Heat
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
Sorry, no.. I have enough with my own stuff.. words of encouragement.. you can do this.. its not that hard.. youtube.. is a big help..yo..
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