What adapters/fittings do I need to vent wood stove?

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Bbauma083

New Member
Oct 27, 2022
14
Minnesota
I posted here earlier asking for wood stove/clearance help and I was pointed in the Jotul F45 direction thanks to begreen. Now that I have that out of the way, I am looking for some help on how to properly vent it out of here. I am planning on having a local sheet metal company bend up some 20ga steel to "finish" the ceiling of the opening seen on the second picture. Would a guy utilize that sheet metal "ceiling" to accommodate some sort of adapter to go from flex to rigid? As of now I am planning on having the exhaust discharge horizontally a short distance and put a tee in. I figured that may make it easier for cleaning? Is that necessary?

On the second picture you'll notice a void from the ceiling. I was thinking of having said sheet metal company bend a "sleeve" to transition from "ceiling" to the inside of the clay tiles. Is that also necessary? From the top of the "ceiling" to the bottom of the clay tiles is 8". I will lay down some sort of tile where the carpet is in front of the hearth to accommodate the protection in front of the stove. Its all constructed with steel studs and mineral wool insulation. I plan on using durock and ceramic tile and/or some stone of sorts to finish it off. The closest combustibles are the wainscoting on each side of the bricks, the framing behind the wainscoting, and the ceiling joists. I am going to call the inspector after I install that sheet metal ceiling.

Is there anything that I might be missing in this installation? Such as my last post here any and all feedback, tips, words of encouragements & insults are welcomed. Thank you for your time. This has been a learning experience.
[Hearth.com] What adapters/fittings do I need to vent wood stove? [Hearth.com] What adapters/fittings do I need to vent wood stove?
 
I posted here earlier asking for wood stove/clearance help and I was pointed in the Jotul F45 direction thanks to begreen. Now that I have that out of the way, I am looking for some help on how to properly vent it out of here. I am planning on having a local sheet metal company bend up some 20ga steel to "finish" the ceiling of the opening seen on the second picture. Would a guy utilize that sheet metal "ceiling" to accommodate some sort of adapter to go from flex to rigid? As of now I am planning on having the exhaust discharge horizontally a short distance and put a tee in. I figured that may make it easier for cleaning? Is that necessary?

On the second picture you'll notice a void from the ceiling. I was thinking of having said sheet metal company bend a "sleeve" to transition from "ceiling" to the inside of the clay tiles. Is that also necessary? From the top of the "ceiling" to the bottom of the clay tiles is 8". I will lay down some sort of tile where the carpet is in front of the hearth to accommodate the protection in front of the stove. Its all constructed with steel studs and mineral wool insulation. I plan on using durock and ceramic tile and/or some stone of sorts to finish it off. The closest combustibles are the wainscoting on each side of the bricks, the framing behind the wainscoting, and the ceiling joists. I am going to call the inspector after I install that sheet metal ceiling.

Is there anything that I might be missing in this installation? Such as my last post here any and all feedback, tips, words of encouragements & insults are welcomed. Thank you for your time. This has been a learning experience.
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I would just run heavy or midweight flex the whole way to the tee painted where it's visible. Either that or just put an adapter on the bottom of the flex just below the plate and run regular stove pipe from there. Making the adapter part of the plate is adding needless complexity
 
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In the last posting, it looked like the chimney terminated at the red iron bar. Has the chimney termination now been raised substantially? Or is this just the camera angle?
 
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I would just run heavy or midweight flex the whole way to the tee painted where it's visible. Either that or just put an adapter on the bottom of the flex just below the plate and run regular stove pipe from there. Making the adapter part of the plate is adding needless complexity
Thanks, I tend to make things more complicated than need be.
 
In the last posting, it looked like the chimney terminated at the red iron bar. Has the chimney termination now been raised substantially? Or is this just the camera angle?
Camera angle. The red iron is still where it was. I framed the opening as large as I could given how the cmu/iron was installed. The iron sits roughly where the mineral wool changes from a horizontal to a vertical install on the face of the first picture.
 
Thanks, I tend to make things more complicated than need be.
I do as well in many cases. I really have to fight that tendency. But honestly in this industry the simple solution is often the best
 
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