What are my options to lower operating temperature of stove?

[Prosecond]

I have a Defiant NC 1610 that is connected to 44' of 7" flex liner. This is my second year operating this stove. I have been having trouble keeping the stove top temperature below 700 degrees. It occassionally reaches nearly 800 degrees. Book says top temp should be 750 degrees. It says at that temp or higher that I could damage the stove. I think I would be more confortable if I could keep the stove operating in the 500 to 650 range. I didn't have a problem keeping the temperature down last year. Everything is the same as far as set-up this year but my wood is much dryer. I have been burning walnut that reads 12% on my meter. I have tried only putting half a load of wood in but the stove still gets above 700. I close the damper on the stove when the book says and I shut the air all the way down shortly after. I run with the air down all the way. The stove will still reach nearly 800 degrees. I have no oak with a newer house. I know my draft is very strong. When I lift the griddle you hear a sucking sound and it can even suck any wood debris I have dropped on top of the stove while loading inside. What are my options?

Mix some less dry wood with the wood I am burning? Do I need a damper in the single wall pipe? Am I doing something wrong? I don't think I have an air leak as it was fine last year and everything still looks new.

Please give me some options. Thanks for your time.

I wanted to add that my insulated liner is installed in a internal masonry chimney.

 

[begreen]

I would add a damper to the single wall. 44' of pipe is a lot. The question is how will you do it if this is a liner? Is it rigid?

 

[Prosecond]

I would add a damper to the single wall. 44' of pipe is a lot. The question is how will you do it if this is a liner? Is it rigid?

Actually the flex liner is 40' and is connected to a tee. The tee snout is connected to a 90 and 4 feet of single wall. I could put the damper in the single wall pipe.

 

[ailanthus]

44' is huge. +1 on the damper. Should save you some wood, too, i would think.

 

[Jags]

Yep, get a damper on that stack. Sounds like you have a hoover for a liner.

 

[jharkin]

+2 on the key damper.

Also check every gasket with the dollar bill check if you have not already. The doors and ash pan should both be tight enough to tear the bill.

Another idea for the big loads is to pick out the largest splits you have. A smaller number of bigger splits will reduce the burnable surface area of the load. And pack it as tight as possible with the least amount of air space between the pieces.

 

[Prosecond]

Ok. Thanks. I will look for a 7" damper.

 

[WidowMaker]

Man that aught to suck start a Harley....

 

[Jasper 83]

Id be scared to reload the stove. Might get sucked up the pipe haha.

 

[Mitch Newton]

+2 on the key damper.

Also check every gasket with the dollar bill check if you have not already. The doors and ash pan should both be tight enough to tear the bill.

Another idea for the big loads is to pick out the largest splits you have. A smaller number of bigger splits will reduce the burnable surface area of the load. And pack it as tight as possible with the least amount of air space between the pieces.

jharkin I know what you mean about larger splits not getting going to quick, but--- I would be very careful filling this stove with big splits the way it is burning. The damper has to be installed.

 

[corey21]

Yep you need pipe damper.

 

[rkshed]

Damper time.

 

[Wood Duck]

You probably need a damper, but I'd also make sure you have a reliable thermometer. The cheapo magnetic thermometers are notoriously inaccurate.

 

[Diabel]

It is a non cat stove. Another option is to cover the round primary intake (at the back/bottom of the stove) hole with stickey aluminum tape ... say 50% and see what happens. It will for sure reduce draft. 44' is a lot of pipe however. This is a very inexpensive mod.