I'm presuming that the loops you're buying are some sort of rebadged Oregon 91VG chain. The 91-series is Oregon's 3/8" pitch Low Profile chain, usually found on <45cc consumer saws and <40cc pro saws. There is nothing inherently wrong with the 91 series, but the VG version with the bumper tie straps go so far into the realm of no-kickback as to prevent intentional cutting, too. The other 91-series versions, those without the bumper tie strap, are quite respectable performers. 95vp is the narrow kerf .325" pitch chain, common on Husqvarnas between 40 and 55cc. It is a "safety" chain with low-kickback properties owing to its depth gauge/raker design, and does not have bumper tie straps between the cutters; 95vp is a superb chain and a great cutter. I run 91-series on my Echo top handles and 95vp on my 238 Husqvarna. Any chain can hurt you, whether it is a "safety" chain or not. To think otherwise is foolish. The advantage of non-safety chain (or at least safety chain that doesn't have those huge tiestrap bumper link thingees) is that the chain is more predictable - it cuts when you ask it, where you ask it, quickly and efficiently. Chips are cleared smoothly from the cut, the saw pulls itself through the wood, and field-sharpening is easy and efficient. My experience has been that accidents are usually caused by fatigue and the operator fighting the machine to get it to do its job, rather than a machine that does its job too well. As for keeping the chain sharp, step one would be to keep it the heck out of the dirt, the grass, the sand, the pavement, and anything that isn't wood. It doesn't take much to knock a good edge off of a chain, and while the loop may still cut OK, it won't be efficient and its dullness will force the saw to labor more than necessary, force the operator to labor more than necessary, and will invite accidents. I have found that keeping my bars short helps a lot, especially when bucking stuff up on the ground. The past few cords of firewood have all been processed with a 13" bar on my 238, except for pieces greater than 20". I got better than 2 full cords out of the chain that is on the saw currently without having to sharpen it back up, and it still has a decent edge on it. But I was conscious of where the bar tip was, what it might contact, and the results in terms of edge retention speak for themselves. If you get a chance, take a look at Oregon's website, or at Bailey's to see illustrations of the particular chain cutter, depth gauge/raker, and tie strap designs.