What should I do in an overfire condition?

[jviers6755]

Hello everyone, this will be my first post here. I have an England Madison stove in my detached workshop. I’ve noticed I have issues with my stove wanting to take off and heat up to 800°+ on the stovetop thermometer. That’s where it was recommended by manufacturer for placement. I also have a thermometer on my flue above the stove. Previously to this I had a warm morning stove installed to the same chimney that is external. Stove worked great, but the efficiency was terrible. You could never feed it enough.

This year I found a deal on the stove I have now. Brand new on marketplace. I had to burn the coating off of it and everything. Anyways to make a long story short the book says anything above 600°F is considered an overfire and operation above that for long periods will damage the stove. I constantly find myself seeing it well over that. My concern is my flue temps will be in the “ideal” range between 300-500 when the other thermometer is almost maxed out.

What if anything can I do about this? I know my chimney is not by the book, but is 4’ or so above the roof and seemed to work great with my old stove. Wood is locust and oak mostly with a little poplar. Little to no smoke except after a reload or start then a clean heat signature.

I read somewhere to shut the air off, open the door wide open for 30 seconds then close it tight, then repeat the process in a moment or two. Works wonders, but it’s a constant battle. Even though its a cheap steel stove am I worrying over it too much and need to just let it ride for a few minutes?

I’m also new to a stove that has secondaries, if there’s any info on that please don’t hesitate to throw that out as well.

Thank you all in advance!

 

[begreen]

The first thing to do when the stove is cold is to take a straight-edge and place it across the inside face of the door to check and make sure it is not warped. Some of the Englanders of this style had an issue with this. I think the issue was worse with the larger 50-SW02. There are some old threads on the topic.

If the door is true and flat, then do the dollar bill test on the door all the way around to make sure that the gasket is sealing well.

For burning, use thicker splits 4-6" across and pack the firebox tightly. As they start to ignite, turn down the air until the flames start to get lazier, then wait for the fire to recover, and repeat.

 

[jviers6755]

Yeah I read about the warping and as much as I hate to say it I can see it. The more it’s been used this season I noticed I could latch the handle to the 3:30-4 o’clock position and I could see a gap that’s only at the bottom. Now it’s 5 or so and it seals up. Dollar bill test passed.
As far as the splits I can run either split 1/2 of an about an 8” log or little splits and it doesn’t seem to have much of an effect on it. I also try to mix some round whole pieces to lengthen my time between reloads.

 

[begreen]

Also, this stove has the AAS which sometimes can stick and in the very first SSW01 models there were reports of it working backwards.

 

[begreen]

eah I read about the warping and as much as I hate to say it I can see it.

Sorry to heat that. Does this model have adjustable hinges that can help toe-in the bottom a little?

 

[jviers6755]

Sorry to heat that. Does this model have adjustable hinges that can help toe-in the bottom a little?

It does and I figured I’d ride out this season and see what I can do. I believe it’s just the glass is too large in the door not leaving enough “meat around the edges” so to speak. For now the gasket is more than enough and it’s really just enough of a crack to see orange with the lights off if I don’t pull it tight. It might not get any worse and might just be breaking in too. Time will tell.

 

[jviers6755]

Also, this stove has the AAS which sometimes can stick and in the very first SSW01 models there were reports of it working backwards.

Well it’s funny you say that because everything I read online said it pulls to open and I can assure you it doesn’t. I thought I was nuts at first pulling the lever and choking my fire down. Once I realized it’s opposite of everything I read it operates as it should. As far as the AAS I don’t really use it I usually only use it for overnight or I’m leaving for work burns. I also don’t know what it’s doing at that time. Could be opening wide and dumping air all day and I have no idea. As far as that goes I can get a good long burn out of the stove and the glass is still clean when I come home. Chimney hasn’t been too dirty except after I first installed and was “learning” the stove.

 

[begreen]

This thread may be helpful if you haven't read it.
I verified that the door warping was primarily an issue with the larger 50-SW02. It's been awhile since this stove has come up.

Thread 'ESW Madison - Pics'

Oct 1, 2015

Received my new Madison today... had a little fun taking it apart, putting it back together and bolting on the fan.

The new stove (need to buy stovepipe this weekend & hook it up)-


Taking off the heat shields and back plate, we get to see the primary air intake system and the esteemed "Automatic Air Setback" mechanism.


The air draft control rod on the front of the stove pushes & pulls this mechanism all the way in the back.
When the air draft is all the way in (Full air), the AAS mechanism doesn't work (since the slider is clear of that S-shaped metal bracket...

• spirilis
• Replies: 37
• Forum: The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces

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