What Size englander stove do i REALLY need.

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r3vak

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Oct 1, 2007
4
Ok... Im not knocking pellet stoves in any way, however i purchased an Englander 25-PDVC. I installed it in a 883 square foot home in the basement which would mean if was heating 1746square feet. It did not heat it well at all, i went through pellets crazy fast and it was starting to cost about the same as oil. My question is that is the 13-NCH Wood Stove going to heat my house or do i need to move up to the 30-NCH?? I also dont wanna get burnt outta my home either. I have 7 foot ceilings good insulation new windows(after the pellet stove was gone) and recently sided my home and put insulation under the siding. Any input is great appreciated. THANK YOU in advance :)
 
Is the basement finished/insulated. If not it is easy to see how the 25 couldn't heat the house. I have a wood stove burning all day every day in the winter in my basement office and don't even dream of it heating the upstairs. The unfinished basement walls soak up half of the heat and dump it into the earth up against them. A 13-NC would be fighting the same fight and losing in your house.

If you put a wood stove down there in hopes of heating the whole house then the 30 would be the way to go but it WILL run you out of that basement with heat. If you do it get the blower for it and make sure the air from the blower blows directly toward the stairwell.
 
I agree with BrotherBart. To give you perspective, Last year I gutted my already finished basement. It had no insulation in it at all, and now I have R29 basement walls. It couldn't be heated prior to that... now I heat it easily with a small electric heater. (Baseboard is in the plan) It's no surprise if your basement is unfinished that you can't heat it with that.
 
Coolest looking basement finishing job I ever saw was where the people just covered the walls with pink Corning insulation with the vapor barrier toward the walls. They then covered it with clear plastic. They started collecting bumper stickers and putting them up on the plastic. Soon everybody that came to visit saw it and started sending bumper stickers. This is the basement of a 3/4 million dollar home and that stuff looks great. When they have parties there everybody spends hours trying to read all of the walls.
 
Received this e-mail from Woodstock Stove a couple of weeks ago. Uninsulated basements are tough to heat!

How to reduce home heat loss
(plus save money, reduce energy consumption, and shrink your carbon footprint at the same time)

When it comes to heating, there are really only 3 ways to reduce energy usage -

decrease demand,
reduce heat loss, and
increase appliance efficiency.
This eNewsletter addresses one strategy for reducing heat loss (more coming in future eNewsletters).

Recently I visited a neighbor who was heating with wood, and trying to reduce his wood consumption. He had installed a stove in an un-insulated basement (concrete walls with a small number of casement windows). He was burning NINE cords of wood per year to heat the basement and the house above it.

Even I was surprised when I calculated the heat loss in his un-insulated basement. My calculations are below. (You can use the formulas to calculate your own heat loss.)


Simple formula for calculating heat loss

The basic formula for heat loss in BTUs/hr = (Area)x(Temperature Differential)/R-Factor of wall (see box below for explanation)
In my neighbors 20x30x8 ft basement, the area is 800 Sq. Ft. (the sum of two 30 ft walls and two 20 ft walls is 100 linear feet x 8 feet in height or 800 sq. ft.) The temperature differential is the difference between inside and outside temperature. The R-Value of an 8 inch concrete wall is 1.11. A good table of R-values is available at http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procorner/
stuff/r-values.htm. Another site with good general information about insulation is the Department of Energy website: http://www.ornl.gov/sci-roofs+walls/
insulation/ins_16.html.
This site includes important information about preventing moisture accumulation as well as r-value recommendations for different areas of the home.

At 70 degrees inside and 10 degrees outside, my neighbors heat loss in BTUs/hr is 43,243 BTU/hr (800 x 60)/1.11 = 43,243).

To get the heat loss in a full day, just multiply by 24 (in this case 1,037,832 BTUs)

To calculate the heat loss per degree day, change the Temp differential to 1 and multiply by 24 (in this case 800 x 1/1.11 x 24 = 17,297 BTUs lost per day, per degree temperature drop.

To calculate the drop over a heating season, multiply by the number of degree days in your area. In our area, there are about 7,000 degree days, so the loss in an un-insulated basement over a full heating season was 121,079,000 BTUs. To find the average number of degree days in your area, click here and visit NOAA: http://lwf.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/documentlibrary/hcs/hcs.html (Youll have to scroll down and open their pdf archives, which include the last 15 years of data on a year-to-year basis. Be sure to select heating degree days and not cooling degree days.)

Is this possible, you ask?

Yes! The loss of heat in a 20 x 30 un-insulated basement in Northern New England is equal to approximately 5 cords of wood at 22,500,000 BTU/cord. By insulating the basement with 2 Polystyreme beadboard, this heat loss gets reduced to 15,125,000 BTUs (a little more than 1/2 cord). Insulating the basement with 3.5 inch fiberglass bats (R-11) will reduce heat loss to less than1/2 cord.

I sound like an insulation salesman, but I'm not. These are real numbers. Weve always been concerned about heat loss in un-insulated basements, but when we sat down and did the math we were stunned. This exercise was so mind-boggling that we posted an article in our Web Library which you can read

Tom Morrissey
Woodstock Soapstone Company
66 Airpark Road
West Lebanon, NH 03784
 
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