What steps are needed for a pellet Fireplace install for efficiency, performance & maximum comfort?

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Feb 1, 2010
9,192
Salem NH
Hello

Here are some best practice tips I found. Any comments?
Just raising the bar!

Clean the chimney from top to bottom before the pellet stove install. Remove any old stove or liner.
Insulate the bottom shelf to save the room heat and seal the top of the chimney to prevent down drafts. Using the right diameter liner for the flue exhaust and the the right diameter for the fresh air intake is crucial to the pellet appliance!

This is what I heard about blocking plates? A blocking plate was used for an old wood stove fireplace installs. Blocking plates were created years ago to use in place of the damper when a wood stove flue vent was connected to the fireplace and exhaust was dumped into the chimney. These blocking plates are not required in many towns and no longer needed. These days flue liners must be run to the top of the chimney and be properly sealed at the top. This prevents down drafts just like the blocking plate and the old flue damper. The Roxul fire proof R23 insulation is now used above the damper shelf and keeps expensive heated air in the room from rising out of the chimney. Therefore the fresh air must come in from the Co-Linear cap at the top down the chimney. In a center chimney, This fresh air gets warmer and dries out as it descends the interior chimney for maximum efficiency when fueling the burn pot! Having fresh air from outside prevents drawing air to fuel the fire from cracks in the house thus providing maximum comfort.

Note:
Some towns in MA still require blocking plates in order to sign off the permit.
Other towns in MA will not issue permits for installation of used pellet stoves.

However a Fresh air pipe becomes even more important with the use of blocking plates and insulation for efficiency! ! ! Also more efficient stoves and other burners require fresh air now!

On Page 21 of the owner's manual for the pellet stove insert in this example, A fresh air kit or OAK is mandatory! Due to the long run the diameter of the outside air pipe was increased to 3" for the 25 foot chimney.

"Outside combustion air must be connected, either by running the outside air
duct down through the ash clean-out of the fireplace, OR by running the
outside air duct to the top of the chimney. More information pertaining to
correct outside air installation can be found in the “Outside Air” section,
page 23."
 
These blocking plates are not required and no longer needed.
The AJH has the ultimate say. Try installing that setup in Falmouth, MA .Providence, RI, Attleboro, MA or any countless other places and you'll realize that bottom plates, though maybe not needed in theory are in fact part of what you have to do to get a permit signed.

Nice VAC. Is that you in the pics? Did you seal those plates at the top with silicone?...NOt a big fan of flush mount to crowns. They all leak...eventually.
 
The AJH has the ultimate say. Try installing that setup in Falmouth, MA .Providence, RI, Attleboro, MA or any countless other places and you'll realize that bottom plates, though maybe not needed in theory are in fact part of what you have to do to get a permit signed.

Nice VAC. Is that you in the pics? Did you seal those plates at the top with silicone?...NOt a big fan of flush mount to crowns. They all leak.

The plates are sealed with Silicone so they will not leak.
Did not need a bottom plate in that town luckily.
Andover MA along with Sharon MA will not give a permit to install a used pellet stove either!
 
Are you licensed in MA yet? I installed in Sharon already...DONE.


That chimney was big so no caps would cover completely. Any other tips on that?
You are dead wrong to change the topic to personal business Scott. I would watch it if I were you!
 
Olympia has 13x18 and 18 x18

Nope Sharon was not signed off cause they wouldn't issue a permit. I asked my insurance company and they said that there wasn't an issue on their end with me doing it so long as I thought it was safe....wow, I thought, thank you very much
 
Don asked me to delete the image of his work...sorry you now have to follow his links to his site to see what I'm talking about

Sorry dude, but that's going to leak on ya. You need about 10 more tapcons on that and another tube of silicone. You could use the crown mount co-linear cap from Olympia, part number CCCLCM 13x13, p.106 in the catalog
 

Please delete the image, you do not have permission to use it!

Also there was no cap before because the chimney design has a bend and a slanted damper so even with it open there was no water in the fireplace. You should not make comments like that when you do not know all the details!

Besides that cap
COLLINEAR CAP 13" X 13" Crown Mount (2-4" collars)

(broken link removed)

I need one for a 4" flex for the exhaust and 3" flex for the OAK (Outside Air intake) so that would not work.
 
Also....where do you get the notion that the air coming down is warming to a point that would actually benefit combustion? Colder air is better for combustion. That's why drag racers ice down their intake manifolds prior to racing. There is more oxygen in colder air than warmer air...just a fact.
 
Also....where do you get the notion that the air coming down is warming to a point that would actually benefit combustion? Colder air is better for combustion. That's why drag racers ice down their intake manifolds prior to racing. There is more oxygen in colder air than warmer air...just a fact.


Internal combustion engines work differently than pellet stoves, If you saw how Selkirk DT venting works, you would understand better.
 
I understand it. Combustion is combustion. I understand fully the laws of pyrolysis and all that is involved. What I am asking you is.... Why is warm air better? Selkirik isn't some miraculous break through in venting technology...it's a way to capture outside air through the same thimble and venting apparatus so you don't have two venting pipes...anything else it claims is purely marketing and perhaps somewhat false advertising. Why is warm air better? Why? Tell us why warming the air is better.
 
Hi Scott - from what I see, the warm fresh air is dryer and there is not as much caked ash in the morning hours on low burn rates in the burn pot. Just my observation.
 
Air doesn't not "dry" out with any significance coming in a 3" flexi hose at a velocity of 32ft per second, sorry. Must be some other phenomenon at work

Duct Velocity in Imperial Units

The velocity of air in a ventilation duct can be expressed in imperial units like this
vi/60 = qi / Ai
= 95 / (π 3squared)
Legend
vi = air velocity (ft/min)
qi = air flow (cfm)
Ai = area of duct (square feet)
di = diameter of duct (inches)
Air flow (cfm): 95
Duct size: 3"

Air velocity = (ft/s): 32.26
 
Well something is making it work better. -:)
 
The question is:
1...Cold vs preheated combustion air differences might be relevant in theory and worthy of discussion but is it really significant with regards to pellet stoves?



"Process temperature is customarily used as a rough indication of where air preheating will be cost effective. Processes operating above 1,600° F are generally good candidates, while preheated air is difficult to justify on processes operating below 1,000° F. Those in the 1,000˚ to 1,600° F range may still be good candidates but must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. These guidelines are not ironclad. Financial justification is based on energy (or Btu) saved, rather than on temperature differential. If a low temperature process has a high enough exhaust gas flow, energy savings may still exist, even though the exhaust gas temperature is lower than 1,000° F. " Resources Combustion Technology Manual.
 
The question is:
1...Cold vs preheated combustion air differences might be relevant in theory and worthy of discussion but is it really significant with regards to pellet stoves?



"Process temperature is customarily used as a rough indication of where air preheating will be cost effective. Processes operating above 1,600° F are generally good candidates, while preheated air is difficult to justify on processes operating below 1,000° F. Those in the 1,000˚ to 1,600° F range may still be good candidates but must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. These guidelines are not ironclad. Financial justification is based on energy (or Btu) saved, rather than on temperature differential. If a low temperature process has a high enough exhaust gas flow, energy savings may still exist, even though the exhaust gas temperature is lower than 1,000° F. " Resources Combustion Technology Manual.



Yes, but only under certain circumstances!
From what I see, the warm fresh air is dryer and there is not as much caked ash in the burn pot during morning hours on low burn in regions of the country that have moist damp air like parts of the Northeast! Just my observation and many other pellet stove owners will not have that issue!

I have seen a big improvement, but others may see little to none! That is why it is hard to see this issue! ! !

However as pellet stoves get more efficient, this will make more of a difference.

Just like OAKs were not generally accepted a few years ago even in this forum, this might become more important and become more accepted.

Thanks again all, for all the information!
 
That may be true about dry air, I doubt the ambient temp has much to do with it. The thing about it drying about inside a vent pipe just isn't happening. If you remove the moisture from the air... Where does it go? There would be evidence of standing water somewhere. The air is moving at roughly 22 miles per hr coming in and traveling a relatively short distance...intake vents are not in anyway drying the air out and doubtedly changing the temp very much.
 
The question is:
1...Cold vs preheated combustion air differences might be relevant in theory and worthy of discussion but is it really significant with regards to pellet stoves?



"Process temperature is customarily used as a rough indication of where air preheating will be cost effective. Processes operating above 1,600° F are generally good candidates, while preheated air is difficult to justify on processes operating below 1,000° F. Those in the 1,000˚ to 1,600° F range may still be good candidates but must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. These guidelines are not ironclad. Financial justification is based on energy (or Btu) saved, rather than on temperature differential. If a low temperature process has a high enough exhaust gas flow, energy savings may still exist, even though the exhaust gas temperature is lower than 1,000° F. " Resources Combustion Technology Manual.
It doesn't get that hot in there....
 
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