I have a video of a few coals left and how fast it starts back up with the air coming in under the fire. I can't load it on here for some reason. If you have another way I can send it from my phone to you I will. I'm a little tech challenged.If you get a chance I'd really like to see a video of that thing burning.
Try this . I think it will take you to a YouTube video that shows the 1 video I have. I will get more videos when it cools back down and I start it back up . This is just showing how a couple coals restarts fast with the air coming from the fire.If you get a chance I'd really like to see a video of that thing burning.
Try this . I think it will take you to a YouTube video that shows the 1 video I have. I will get more videos when it cools back down and I start it back up . This is just showing how a couple coals restarts fast with the air coming from the fire.
No it's not been checked. It's 8 inch with about 20 foot of insulated through house then approx 6 -8 foot single wall to stove. I called stove co and they said do not install a damper. When stove ash pan shuts it slows it all back down. At that point it's only the air coming in the bimetal damper below the fire. It has settings low to high for air intake. It surely kicks up fast when you open ash pan door.Has your draft been checked with a manometer? That looks like it might possibly be pulling too much. Do you have a barometric damper?
I sure will when I fire it back up.Nice. Can you post one mid burn cycle also?
That is how it's plumbed except for mixing valve placement. I was just lining at that air valve lol. I see a brass fitting is known to California to cause cancer and birth defects??? I am going to have to drain the water and get plumber to install 2 of those . 1 above relief valve on buffer tank and 1 between tanks due to the high pipe and a spot for air to get trapped. Actually want a way to bypass buffer tank if the problem persist that way I can at least drain it and use stove for house heat.
Thanks . I have plans on the plumber coming back to install a vent .Some brass fittings can have lead, and thats what the California warning is about. I would assume your plumber used lead-free fittings (which have a very very small percentage, not enough to worry about)
You only need a vent in the line that goes between the wood stove and the buffer tank, since there isnt any other way for water to move between those two devices. You shouldnt need one between the tanks because the water coming from one tank into the other is pushed by your well pump or the municipal water supply, so it would force any air out as you use the fixtures.
Did you do this to yours? The reason I asked is I called the plumber he said that the threads are different on the element and doesn't think that can de done? I have no ideal. If you have a part that will work please post it so I can have the part for him. ThanksHave you thought about instead of your return going to the pressure relief have it go to your top element. It could be that hot water is getting trapped at the relief valve. At the top element it will give you a bigger buffer on temperature rise, to do it you will need a 1" to 3/4" threaded reducer.
This should be a link to a video with a mid cycle burn.If you get a chance I'd really like to see a video of that thing burning.
My setup is slightly different. I have no input in my wood stove so I striped out a used water heater and let it heat up next to the stove before going into the main propane water heater. The average temperature in the warm up tank is around 135. I use the holes where the electrodes go for the temperature gauges , the threads are just standard 1" threads.Did you do this to yours? The reason I asked is I called the plumber he said that the threads are different on the element and doesn't think that can de done? I have no ideal. If you have a part that will work please post it so I can have the part for him. Thanks
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