What to look for in a used F600...

[branchburner]

... besides the obvious cracks and gasket or burn tube issues? I'm guessing the stove is about ten years old and the current owner has given me the impression the stove might have been overfired, as one of the reasons he's selling is he has a hard time keeping temps down. Hard to say if that's a draft issue or a stove issue.

If there are any issues particular to the Firelight to keep an eye out for, or used Jotuls in general, any input is appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Cracks and warped parts. In particular look carefully at the base around the grate.
Greyed or white areas in the paint indicates a stove that got too hot.

 

[branchburner]

I do know for sure the baffles above the burn tubes are warped, but I guess that is not all that uncommon. Also, seems to have been run without an insulation blanket above the baffles. Would the warped baffles alone result in a tendency for the stove to burn hot?

I am assuming a $300-400 cost for replacing baffles/manifold/insulation to start with. Just wondering if it is typical to need other replacement parts in an F600 that has been tending to run hot. (Owners say they have done smoke and dollar bill tests.) I know some others who have run Jotuls on the hot side, and my Oakwood itself is starting to get expensive as the high heat is shortening the refractory lifespan. I

get the impression from the current owners they would prefer a stove that runs around 500f rather than 700f. So perhaps they feel 700f is "running away". I have no problem with 700f as long as it isn't killing the stove... can the F600 take that, aside from warping the baffles?

Assuming no cracks or visible signs of extreme overfire, what is a reasonable price for this stove. even if it needs tearing down and re-cementing?

 

[xman23]

Hey, I not sure of what I'm about to write. But wasn't the 600 originally a top loader cat stove. And now no cat. And top loading now I don't know. I do know it's a good size stove. So what is the configuration of this stove?

 

[waxur]

Well my Firelight did get too hot due to a super draft and a faulty stovetop thermometer. Figured that out AFTER the damage was done. I can tell you high temps seem to adversely affect the stove cement. I would remove the front ash lip and look really close with a flashlight at the area just under the front doors. Mine had a crack there under the left door. It also had a crack in the top panel in the recessed area where the oval piece fits in. That one was harder to see but a very bright light was helpful. A minor inconvenience was the air control lever sticking which is a well documented issue with especially the Oslo. I finally got my dealer to get me the updated kit with the re-bent lever. Worked like a champ.

 

[begreen]

Proceed with caution and assume a complete teardown inspection, parts replacement and problem correction to run $1200. It may come in for less than that, but maybe not if a structural crack(s) is discovered. Base your price on that assumption.

The F600 should be fine with an occasional foray up to 700F. Its normal peak temp should be around 650-700F and cruise temp at 600-650F. If the peak is more like 800F+ and it wants to cruise at 700F+ then I would begin to be concerned.

 

[branchburner]

Thanks, begreen and waxur. I guess even though Jotuls are top-notch stoves, they are as mortal as any other.

This 3 cu ft stove is not the cat model, xman. I think that was the Firelight 12, as opposed to the Firelight F600. I'd actually love to find one of those in good condition, but the parts are getting very expensive, as Jotul stopped making them. I just missed a chance to pick one up for $250!

 

[branchburner]

So the Oakwood is taking this season off. Settled on $700 for the Firelight, a bit more than I was hoping to pay, but I see no signs of cracking or overfire, so it could end up being a bargain. I'll try running it without re-cementing and see how she does.

As I mentioned, the baffles above the burn tubes are warped, and there was no insulation blanket above the baffles. The tube assembly itself seems fine. I am hoping this would explain why the previous owner was experiencing somewhat high stove top and flue temps: the hot gasses were going straight up through the large opening where the baffle was warped, instead of up and around the baffle.

I plan to follow another forum member (Dexter) with an older F600 and switch from cast iron baffles to brick, as he found the cast iron would warp every 2-3 years. Pics with bricks to follow!

 

[stovelark]

HI Branch, I would say not to change operating configuration with that stove- if there is ever an issue, it will be looked upon badly. The baffles being warped is normally caused by burning it too hot, an air leak around the ash door, or actually burning it with the ash door open, a no-no. The baffles are about 65 dollars apiece and the blanket around 40. If the rest of the stove is in good shape, you got a great deal. If you find it still wants to run hot with the door gaskets all sealed, check around the side seams with a candle or a match, sometimes furnace cement decays over time and the side seams begin to pull in air, espec on the Firelight. Normal burning for Jotuls should be around 400-600 degrees, but could hit 700 degrees occasionally.

 

[branchburner]

Thanks, Stovelark. In searching online I see the F500 baffle listed as vermiculite, but could only find cast iron listed for the F600. I would prefer to not have cast iron, and was under the impression the the F600 no longer had it. Am I wrong? (I guess I should vist or call the Jotul dealer down the road to confirm.)

A quick search reveals numerous complaints about warping, and I'm having a hard time believing cast iron is the ideal material for this piece. I prefer not spending $125 every few years on these (I currently have a stove with that annoying feature).

I wonder why a ceramic fiber board (if not brick) wouldn't as well or better. As for the blanket on top of the baffle, I think I can source virtually material for well under half the price of the "official" part. Does anyone happen to know if the blanket is 1/2 inch, or a full inch?

 

[stovelark]

Hi Branch- Yes, the Oslo switched to Vermiculite baffles years ago, although the cast baffles are still available if someone wants to use them. The F600 still is only cast baffle. I just mentioned caution about changing any configuration of a MFR's stove original parts. The blanket for the F600 is about 1/2 inch thick. Good luck with her, again think you got a good deal.