What type of fireplace is this and what can i do to even it up

[Ukrainianoiler]

First post here so go easy on me.
I just bought a home built in 78 with a fireplace that looks to have been installed at that time (there was a card left from the inspector dated around then inside the wall. I'm a first time homeowner and so I'm not sure to what exact type it is. I'm assuming its a Steel Liner (there are brick veneer pasted on the front and drywall on either side and behind (it backs onto the kitchen). There is only drywall behind the brick veneer and just a hollow space in the wall up the the fireplace which has no masonry that i can see. Would I be right in assuming this and if so:

given the picture of it that i've attached, where would i go to find the clearances require for this. For whatever reason, the actual fireplace is offset and its driving me nut looking at it. At the very least, i'd like to take the veneer off and just put a drywall front (I'm assuming theres higher heat drywall?) but I'd really like to just get rid of the extra space on the left side and make it even with the right.

Any suggestions on where to go with this. I've been thinking of bring in someone but I know my dad and i can do it, but at the same time, i'd like to do it safely...
Thanks

 

[edthedawg]

You got yourself a humdilly of a pickle there. Everything in those photos screams "Combustible!"

First, you need to decide what you want the net result to be. Is that a gas unit? The pipe shown looks like galvanized - not the best choice for wood burning. If you are planning to upgrade to wood, you'll want to find yourself a zero-clearance fireplace that you're happy with. I wouldn't try re-installing the same old dragon you have there, personally, but if that's what you want, then fine...

Second, you need to figure out what's in the way over to the left there. Why'd they build it offset like that? Chances are they had some valid reason. And you also need to think about your finish look. Planning to keep that fake brick veneer? the marble hearth? add a mantel? ditch the late-70's shag? However much you're willing to rip out and replace largely dictates what you can rebuild and hide behind new materials. You can't likely expect to just slice out some wall to the left of the fireplace, slide the whole thing over to the left, and then slip the cut-out back into the right side and make it look right.

One would imagine that provided you can maintain all the necessary clearances to combustibles (CTC's) - i.e. measure everything, tear it apart, rebuild it so no wood or drywall is any closer than it is now - you'd not be creating an unsafe condition. But you would be ripping nearly everything shown in your first pic out and replacing / rebuilding / repainting it all.

Good luck, welcome to the Hearth!

 

[Ukrainianoiler]

So is this not a zero clearance fireplace/factory built type? It is a wood burning fireplace, more for decoration than anything but still functional as long as there isn't a rip roaring fire going (this is what the home inspection guy said when i bought the place...but that again was before opening the wall up).

 

[daleeper]

Looks like a zero clearance type fireplace to me. The chimney looks like the duravent that we have in our house, galvanized outside with stainless on the inside, could be wrapped with insulation for double wall, or like ours, has a middle liner and air cooled. There is a label on the chimney up towards the top that will have the manufacture's name and specs on it. You may have to look at another one up above to find one that is readable though. If you have a basement, I am guessing the offset is to allow clearance for another chimney system to come up from the basement, otherwise I have no clue why the offset.

If there is a basement, I would consider keeping the offset in case you wanted/needed a flue from down there. Otherwise I would get rid of the offset and either install a new high efficiency zero clearance, or rip the whole thing and install a real wood stove on new hearth, depending on the house layout, heating needs, budget, and desired looks.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[edthedawg]

yeah you could do a freestanding stove w/ wall protection, centered on that wall, and just have a couple 45's to jog into the offset flue up high. but you'd need a big room to do that w/ the clearances req'd around a freestanding stove.

 

[deck2]

UK
where did you take those pics from. Is the left side of that wall(hearth?) opened up. It dosent look like you pulled the fire place to take the pics. If that is the case you might be able to do what you want with the left side of it. I would get a cert. chimney sweep to come out and inspect you system, he will let you know what you have and if he is reputable he should know if you meet all clearences and if your chimney is the right one for the unit you are using.

However newer EPA stove or 0 clearence will be alot more efficent if you are planning to heat your home with it, but if it is just for once in a while thing this unit with the proper clearences should work, then it is just reframing it and adding some more up dated material -- Stone, Tile real brick what ever you want.

When we bought our home 2 years ago we tore out an old brick hearth/wall w/old Franklin stove and only 4inchs of clearence and replaced it with a Blue stone wall/hearth and a new EPA Cert. Kuma wood stove. and we have heated our 1600 2ft ranch with ease ever since and with only 3 cord of good hardwood (hard maple/oak/ash) this past winter and a toasty 75 degree temp even on the coldest of nights down to -20F.

But when we bought the house it was either replace to 50 year old gas furnace or the ancient wood stove and after the closing costs and other repairs we decied the wood stove at 1/3 the price of a new high efficent furnace was more in our budget.

 

[basswidow]

Looks like a heatilator fireplace and the flue does not look class A. It's probably double walled 8 inch outer 6 inch inner flue good for a gas log or small wood fire.

I had the same thing in my house and removed it all. I replaced it with a kozy heat z42 zero clearance fireplace that fit the space perfectly and a new class A chimney. Couldn't be happier.

 

[Ukrainianoiler]

The Pic was taken from the side with the extra space (i haven't torn it out, I've just pulled out the drywall on the lt and rt side to see whats inside or if there was a reason for the offsetting of it. Theres nothing under it in the basement and theres nothing actually in there but open space on the right side. I honestly am wondering if it was a bad trip someone had back in the 70's while they were building it : )

I think that the chimney sweep will be the route i go. I've got too many other projects more in need of money in the place so while not looking for a quick fix, I'm looking for a decent look without major work. The home inspector did say it was just for small fires when I bought the home and its defintely not a heating need, just more decorative, but i'd like it to be ok for a little fire now and then.

 

[Ukrainianoiler]

This was the sticker that a responder had mentioned before. Would these usually come as a whole piece or as separate parts (ie, would it be a kit and they all be from the same manufacturer or would the actual fireplace part be separte from the stack etc)?

 

[daleeper]

OK, this is an older insulated chimney system that most likely is in 3 or 4 foot sections with twist connections holding it together. Oliver-Macleod googled leads me to Security Chimneys International. There should also be a label or tag on the fireplace somewhere. It will most likely be somewhere on the back or sides, but possibly somewhere that can be seen from the front. It should have clearance from combustible requirements listed on it somewhere on that label. It may or may not be made by the same company as the chimney.

If all you are wanting to do is even up the sides of the hearth and modernize the vernier brick, then you should be able to do so depending on the listed clearance listed on the fireplace. Before doing any work on the hearth it might be wise to get the system checked over by a good chimney sweep (not one who is itching to sell you a new system). If there are problems with the chimney and fireplace, you will want to repair or replace it first anyway.

I still say that space on the left was there for the option of running a chimney from the basement in the future. It seems as though you are not interested in doing that, so there is no reason to keep that space assuming there is nothing else in that chase and clearances listed on that fireplace unit allow it.

 

[Wet1]

I'd stick a hearth tool set or log rack on the left side to make it look more symmetrical and call it a day until you have the time/desire to rip it down and rebuild to your taste. In fact, this is probably why it was built/designed that way to begin with...

 

[RocketMan]

Based on what I think is a nail in the ceiling picture, I'm guessing that your rafters run perpendicular to the face of the fireplace and you have a rafter that was in the way. Instead of using an offset, it was decided "hey, just move that sucker over a little bit! It will look fine..."

 

[Ukrainianoiler]

I took someones advice off here and did try to contact the maker....sadly, the people had only bought the name about 14 years back and so had no information on the fireplace...

I agree with the last poster about the fireplace tools. I'm sure thats what it had to be thought out for. Not sure why they didn't just put it in a corner out of the way instead but i guess it made sense at the time.

I'm trying to get a hold of the ULC as they are listed on the fireplace stamp so hopefully they can let me know exactly what i have. Then i'll bring in a chimney sweep too as someone mentioned. Thanks for all the advice and anything more you have, I'll take it all.
have a good one