What would you do with ZC door conflict?

[iron]

Greetings. Long time no post.

We built a new house. Our builder generally sucked. During installation of the stone around our ZC fireplace (Elegance 36): https://ambiancefireplaces.com/prod...es/wood-built-in/elegance-series/elegance-36/, they screwed up by not installing the face plate prior to installing the stone.

As a result of this, there are gaps at the bottom of the fireplace where ashes like to fall into since the face plate does not cover the fireplace box fully. Additionally, the latch to open/close the door rubs hard against the face frame since the frame is out ~1" from where it should be.

We generally like the look of the face plate on top of the stone as it provides the cleanest lines (i.e. no cut rock edges). However, it's clear that it's not functional in its current state. Options as follows:
1. Leave as is and custom fabricate a new handle that is a little longer; probably $50-100. Still would have the ash issue and some slight aesthetic issues where it's clear the face frame should be set in further.
2. Trace lines on stone, cut out, and set the face place where it should be; probably $300 and really messy, but would solve the issues. Drawback is that the cut lines may not be great since the masonry is already installed.

Ultimately, we're going to force our builder to rectify this, so the cost/hassle probably isn't too much of a hassle. I'm just looking for opinions on what everyone things will look best and function best (or some blend thereof) before proceeding since if we go with Option 2, there's no going back.

Other than this, the unit burns great and works very well in our super airtight house (0.5 ACH) at 50 degrees N and 3600ft elevation. We burned construction scrap wood all winter and while it certainly wasn't seasoned, there was almost no build up on the glass. The unit has a far different flue construction from the inside of the firebox compared to the Heat n Glo Northstar unit we used to have. The goal with our current fireplace, despite being located where -20 to -30F temps are not uncommon (compared to our previous location near Seattle), was to not overheat the house. I think we've succeeded. More than 2 loads, even on the coldest days, would be too much. One load is just right for most days. Our unit has ducted heat pipes that are required as part of the install if you don't have the face louvers (which are ugly IMO). We have them hidden behind our stone facing on the sides of the unit. (eventually I will install the mantle, so ignore for now)

 

[NickW]

Man, that sucks! I'd talk to the mason and see if the stones can be cut and the edges restored to look "natural" instead of cut so the faceplate sits in there properly. I just finished mortaring my surround and did leave space for my faceplate...

 

[kborndale]

Why wouldn't the construction scrap wood have been seasoned? Isn't it normally kiln dried? Hopefully you haven't fully paid the builder yet, makes it a lot easier to get them to fix stuff.

 

[begreen]

They need to mark the edge of the face frame on the stones. Remove the face frame and cut the stones. Put the face frame back on on properly.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

If the face frame is removed and then the stones are cut, wouldn't it cover the freshly cut stone surfaces once its been reinstalled?

 

[iron]

Why wouldn't the construction scrap wood have been seasoned? Isn't it normally kiln dried? Hopefully you haven't fully paid the builder yet, makes it a lot easier to get them to fix stuff.

I could be wrong, but kiln dried doesn't necessarily = seasoned. I've certainly used doug fir or southern pine wood that was plenty wet still. This is why you can drive nails into the wood without it splitting (mostly). But, after a few years, it becomes hard as a rock and splits.

 

[iron]

If the face frame is removed and then the stones are cut, wouldn't it cover the freshly cut stone surfaces once its been reinstalled?

Good question. I think the stone is somewhere around 1-1.5" thick. I was assuming that if the stone was to be cut, it would go down to the depth of the cement board and then the face frame would be on that. However, if the depth of the fireplace box is wrong relative to the cement board location, there's a chance that the face frame would sit some fraction of an inch off the cement board, which surely would not look good either.

We're about to enter into a legal dispute with the builder (who's 60%+ over budget), so this will get ugly.

 

[begreen]

I could be wrong, but kiln dried doesn't necessarily = seasoned. I've certainly used doug fir or southern pine wood that was plenty wet still. This is why you can drive nails into the wood without it splitting (mostly). But, after a few years, it becomes hard as a rock and splits.

In some places, kiln drying is used to kill off bugs like bark beetles and not to dry the wood.

Good question. I think the stone is somewhere around 1-1.5" thick. I was assuming that if the stone was to be cut, it would go down to the depth of the cement board and then the face frame would be on that. However, if the depth of the fireplace box is wrong relative to the cement board location, there's a chance that the face frame would sit some fraction of an inch off the cement board, which surely would not look good either.

We're about to enter into a legal dispute with the builder (who's 60%+ over budget), so this will get ugly.

This depends on the desired finished look. The face frame can be recessed a bit after the stone is cut or it can be made flush by first building up the cut-out stone area with some cement board.