What's the cause of my rust? "Is my rust normal?"

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Chris_F

Member
Dec 10, 2014
29
East Fishkill, New York
Good day all!

I have a 3-year-old Hudson River Stoveworks brand Chatham model freestanding pellet stove inside my livingroom (installed August 2014). Early this summer I started to see a lot of rust spots on the hopper lid, and in multiple different areas on the top and on a front pillar of the cast iron body. The removable plate in the ceiling of the burn box also became covered in rust pockmarks. None of this rust inside or outside was visible until early this summer, shortly after the stove's installer came to do his annual chimney and stove cleaning. Please could someone tell me: is any of this rust normal wear-and-tear? Or - especially regarding the rust bleeding through the paint on the top and the pillar - is it a problem caused environmental conditions, stove installation problems, or chimney issues? Or, is it a warranty issue caused by poor quality metal? Here are four photos:

stovepipe ash.jpg


hopper rust.jpg


stovetop rust.jpg


pillar rust.jpg


I'm a newbie with stoves - this is my first and only pellet stove, and I'm just now starting my fourth winter of use. I hope the stove will last decades and I'm concerned that it's rusting in so many spots after only three years. I burn about four tons of pellets each winter, clean out the burnbox and ash bin weekly, and have the installer do a "thorough" cleaning at the end of each burn season. I've been confused by conflicting stories from the stove's installer (who also installed the chimney liner), the maker/distributor/dealer (who all are the same family and business broken into three sections), and a competing dealer.

The installer said the rust is due to poor quality of the stove, and he won't apply for warranty repair because he no longer trusts the maker/distributor/dealer to abide by the warranty. However, I've realized that the installer is shady and his work is not to be trusted.

I spoke with the distributor (BAC Sales) who told me they will only deal with the installer and not with me, even after I explained that the installer won't help. I spoke with the manufacturer's (Hudson River Stoveworks) showroom (Amanda's Fireplace, Hudson, NY), who told me their stoves never ever rust, and repeatedly stated that their warranty does not cover the body of the stove, even though the very first line of the warranty paper I have from them specifically states that their limited lifetime warranty covers the outside body/case including the top and the sides. He listed reasons my stove must have rust:
1) the room is unusually damp. (Not the case. The living room air is dry even on humid summer days, and desiccating in the fall and winter. We don't keep any water on or near the stove, and we clean/dust the stove and doorglass with a slightly damp rag only.)
2) the pellets are damp or are stored in a damp area. (They are stored in their unopened bags in a large dry basement, on pallets and away from the walls for air circulation; though, the air can be humid in the summer.)
3) the stove installation is bad, causing dampness (he didn't explain how). (I imagine this is a possibility given my distrust of the installer's work.)
4) the chimney installation is bad, causing water to run down the chimney liner into the stove.

The bad chimney installation worries me, especially after I read the thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/rust-spots-in-a-new-opel-fireplace.154166/
You can see in my first photo that the stovepipe has a lot of tan dust. It's gotten more and more dust each winter. My only concern prior to the rust was that the ill-fitted pipe sections were allowing ash dust to pollute the air in the house (and our lungs) and make the house dirtier, but now I worry it might be indicative of a bad chimney installation. The installer has constantly claimed that there is no problem with this situation. In case it helps, I'll mention that when he installed this pellet stove, he ran a new chimney liner into an existing unused brick chimney that has a bluestone cap atop 1-to-2-foot-tall brick columns. I do not know if the liner itself has a cap, but one is not visible outside from the ground. The stovepipe makes a 90-degree corner from the chimney into the living room, then arcs downward to a T-joint with the downpointing portion ending in a clean-out cap and the horizontal portion connecting to the stove.

My apologies for the long post. I hope that being specific will help guide your advice. I am very thankful if anyone can tell me what might be causing the rust, and how I might be able to get whichever appropriate people to accept responsibility (or if I just need to get used to sanding and painting the stove every couple years as routine maintenance).

Many thanks,
Chris
 
Rust is oxidation of the base metal. Yes it is a normal condition. Your stove will rust with just high humidity in the summer. Wiping with a damp cloth even. Usually not as fast as yours has but it is a normal condition. Never ever rust is a very bold statement! I make a living fixing automobiles and paint them daily. I also do custom work at home powder painting. And i wont guarantee a rust repair 5/50 5 min or 50 feet. If they said that it will never ever rust i would call them on it proof is in the pictures. Take your warranty papers and pics and show them to the mfg! But scuffing it down with a red scotch brite pad and high temp paint will make it look great again.
 
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What Ssyko,said.Poor surface preparation before painting,poor quality primer/surface conditioner,poor quality paint.As the rust is bleeding through,not where surface has been damaged,I would bet money,if this was a Harman stove,Harman would pay a dealer to remove,repaint and reinstall,even if out of warranty.
 
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In regards to the rust, I agree with what Ssyco said, and in regards to the pipe joints those should be sealed with silicone tape which comes in black and can be pulled off again if needed. You should not be getting ANY combustion products in the house IMO. In regards to the inside of the stove many people (my self included) use a light coat of cooking spray on the metal to protect from damp. There are several people on here who use damp rid as well, I'm thinking of doing that also next year for the summer off season.
 
In regards to the rust, I agree with what Ssyco said, and in regards to the pipe joints those should be sealed with silicone tape which comes in black and can be pulled off again if needed. You should not be getting ANY combustion products in the house IMO. In regards to the inside of the stove many people (my self included) use a light coat of cooking spray on the metal to protect from damp. There are several people on here who use damp rid as well, I'm thinking of doing that also next year for the summer off season.
I put 1 small can of damprid in the burnpot area and 1 in the lower ash pan area.
every october i remove them and they both have around 2/half inches of water in them.
have zero rust inside the stove and have been doing this for years..
I do also spray the burnpot with pam cook spray..[not the butter flavored]>>>>
this is all done after the final cleaning in spring.
 
I put 1 small can of damprid in the burnpot area and 1 in the lower ash pan area.
every october i remove them and they both have around 2/half inches of water in them.
have zero rust inside the stove and have been doing this for years..
I do also spray the burnpot with pam cook spray..[not the butter flavored]>>>>
this is all done after the final cleaning in spring.
You haven't lived till you cook some buttered potato's inside your P61 Tony !! Been there done that, they come out great. BogieB and I have both done it actually. I haven't tried stew meat yet but I want to.
 
You haven't lived till you cook some buttered potato's inside your P61 Tony !! Been there done that, they come out great. BogieB and I have both done it actually. I haven't tried stew meat yet but I want to.
FOR REAL
You haven't lived till you cook some buttered potato's inside your P61 Tony !! Been there done that, they come out great. BogieB and I have both done it actually. I haven't tried stew meat yet but I want to.
>>>>>>>>
 
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Put em in foil and set them on the ledge in there, done in half hour or so depending on your heat setting. Just stab them through the foil to check. What the heck, the stoves running anyway !
 
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My old Whitfield has very little rust. Summers are very dry here and I use the stove the rest of the year, so the damp doesn't have a chance to rust the stove.
 
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Wow, I thank you all very much for the advice...and I'm craving a baked potato right now....

I'll be getting a red Scotchbrite pad, hi-temp paint, damprid canisters, and some cooking spray! I'm looking forward to trying all these things - many thanks!

Also, make a mental note about the Hudson River Stoveworks / BAC Sales / Amanda's Fireplace lack of warranty support!
 
Hi temp paint,and stove paint,set up with heat.Most wait until spring,and take stove outside,as it will really stink up house.Especially as your stove could use a complete paint job.
 
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Yes definitely not something to be done in the house
 
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I bet if a lawer sent a letter they would change their warranty practices! Lol:eek:
 
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I've done it, painted a stove and fired it off in the house. My old coal stove with Rutland stove paint in a spray can ( wear a face mask which I had because I was refinishing automobiles at that time in my life). The key is cross vent and put a fan in the nearest window exhausting out and to cut out a cardboard shroud that fits around the fan and blocks the excess space around the open window.. . Didn't work too bad, outdoors is ideal though.
 
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