Which way does your stove pipe go?

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Clarkbug

Minister of Fire
Dec 20, 2010
1,273
Upstate NY
Question for everyone here, which pretty much only applies to the single wall stuff.

I know when hooking up a wood stove, you typically put the crimped part of the stove pipe towards the stove. This way any creosote that would be formed runs back down into the stove, instead of running onto the outside of the pipe.

Is it the opposite when you are dealing with forced combustion? I only ask because i notice a little bit of fly ash buildup near one of my joints. Its in the horizontal, and Im thinking that if I flip it, it might help prevent anything from sneaking out.

Thoughts?
 
I had to tape the joints on my stove pipe with foil tape to get an air tight seal.
 
I had air leaks, too. Used some hi temp silicone to seal them up.
Yes, it's a head ache when I'm trying to take them apart to clean them....
 
Hmm, thats sorta what I thought.

I picked up some of the high temp silicone/cement to try and hit that seam, but I wasnt sure if just turning the pipe around would be a better idea. The way I have it configured I dont see where it will make too much of a difference for me since its in the horizontal before it goes into my chimney.
 
Clarkbug said:
Hmm, thats sorta what I thought.

I picked up some of the high temp silicone/cement to try and hit that seam, but I wasnt sure if just turning the pipe around would be a better idea. The way I have it configured I dont see where it will make too much of a difference for me since its in the horizontal before it goes into my chimney.

do not use the hi temp black stove cement(2000f), it cracks...I know..
hi temp red silicone or the rtv gasket auto silicone(hi temp & sensor safe for the ones that have
Lambda sensors)

Can you do a visual inspection with a cam probe, instead of having to remove the assembly?
That is the path I intend on following...
If a clean up is needed, I will then remove the fan and brush the flue through the breech....theoretically thus far..will see soon.

Scott
 
For safety purposes the crimp should face away from the stove, but if you don't use properly seasoned wood you risk creosote leaking in the house. some type of tape might work ! JMT.
 
I actually have a clamp band in my piping, so I can just undo that and pull the piping assembly entirely. The pipe leaving the Varm has four bolts, so if I undo the clamp band and that pipe, I can slide the rest of my pipe right out of the wall thimble for cleaning.

Thats why I was curious about flipping it, so the crimp goes away from the boiler.
 
At most of my joints the crimp is going towards the boiler. However, my exhaust pipe goes to an Ash cyclone on the side of the boiler, not to the boiler itself. I did have to turn one of the pieces of pipe around because of the way my single wall feeds into the double wall insulated s.s. chimney. But all joints are sealed with "red" high temp. caulk.
 
Gasifier said:
At most of my joints the crimp is going towards the boiler. However, my exhaust pipe goes to an Ash cyclone on the side of the boiler, not to the boiler itself. I did have to turn one of the pieces of pipe around because of the way my single wall feeds into the double wall insulated s.s. chimney. But all joints are sealed with "red" high temp. caulk.

Gasser ..did you caulk the joints in between the pipe or on the outside where the seem is?
 
Gasser ..did you caulk the joints in between the pipe or on the outside where the seem is?

On the outside where the seam is. It seems to be working well. ;-) I just spilled a few drips of my cold Blue Light down the front of my back. Yucky.
 
Gasifier said:
Gasser ..did you caulk the joints in between the pipe or on the outside where the seem is?

On the outside where the seam is. It seems to be working well. ;-) I just spilled a few drips of my cold Blue Light down the front of my back. Yucky.

"no worries" it was only lite beer. LOL.
 
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