Whitfield died?

Bugs Posted By Bugs, Nov 4, 2017 at 9:10 PM

  1. Bugs

    Bugs
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    Wow! Sorry, had to do a job out of town forgot my iPad thread kinda blew up on me, you have know idea how much I appreciate the input.
     
    bob bare likes this.
  2. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
    65
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    Loc:
    Portland Oregon
    “Taking the basic problem simply : all the electrics worked fine until the new auger motor was fitted.
    After that we have a toasted triac and fuse for each trial.”

    Actually it blew the first time with the original auger motor, that’s what got me started on this quest to fix this beast.
     
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  3. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    I thought so,which is why I recommend the separate fuses.They are getting off on electronics theory,without having the device in hand,which is fine kinda fun reading it all,lol
     
  4. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
    65
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    Loc:
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    20171201_123229.jpg 20171201_122844.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Lorraine NY
    Yes we kinda went off into left field but it was great exercise for my brain. But glad your back Bugs! Now you know what we all need to know is if the new auger motor has the same stats voltage, amps etc. as the old motor.
     
  6. Bugs

    Bugs
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    Bought 3 inline and 5amp fuses should I use 4amp ?
     
  7. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Sorry we type at same time
     
  8. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Your fuses that blew were 5amp fast blow?
     
  9. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    even less would be fine,2 or 3,but 4 is still less,is ok.
     
  10. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Yeah what bob said less than 5. We want to try and protect your 5a and triac
     
  11. Bugs

    Bugs
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    They where 6amp fast, that’s why I think Bob recommended going lower amp.
     
  12. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    Okay, now I have to correct myself, the fuse did not blow with the old auger, it just stopped turning the auger (from what I remember) fuse blew with the new auger.
     
  13. Bugs

    Bugs
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    It is much better 1/8” up/down virtually 0” side to side.

    Digi-key for components
     
  14. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    The first time was about 45 min the second about 15.
    I think there may be a pot in between for speed adjustment.
     
  15. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
    65
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    Loc:
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    I noticed the new auger is 0.45 amps the old was 0.41 I wouldn’t think that could cause the problem.
    Also all the blown fuses where 6amp fast.
     
  16. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    Loc:
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    20171201_131848.jpg I did get a new tool today to help maintain the old beast WHEN I get her going again.
     
  17. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    If you only got 5's use em.Nice new sucker you got there!
     
  18. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    Your new auger draws .04a more than the old one and should not have that much diff as long as the max amp draw of the board does not exceed your Fuse. now are all the motors original to the stove? im thinking new auger is taking out the triac and the triac shorting is blowing the fuse. Bugs can you pull the auger and bench test it with outlet power and check the amps its drawing without the board in the loop?
     
  19. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    where did you buy this new auger?
     
  20. bob bare

    bob bare
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    Oct 31, 2013
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    Loc:
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    We have overloaded this poor man with much info.we appreciate all help,you are intelligent,yet appears you sometimes reply before reading the whole thread,which leads to illogical reply's and questions.Calm down,have a beer.If I may ask,why are you running 5 pellet stoves?I am not trying to be rude,just trying to cut down the same questions asked,within the same thread,as I and stove owners do appreciate your help.
     
  21. Ssyko

    Ssyko
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    Nov 6, 2017
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    2 in the house 1 in my shop 1 in my sons place and an extra. im not trying to overload Bugs. not trying to impress either. logical mechanical mind wants to find out WHY is all.
     
  22. Bugs

    Bugs
    New Member 2.
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    Aug 30, 2017
    65
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    Loc:
    Portland Oregon
    I appreciate all the help I’m getting from everybody, I will probably pull the stove out and work on it today or tomorrow needs to be cleaned and I’ll have better access to putting the inline fuses in. I’ll see if I can bench test the new auger and check amp draw.
    I’m not overwhelmed yet, I love a challenge and intelligent communications or I’m a dumb a$$... either way keep it coming, appears this maybe helpful to others experiencing similar issues.
     
  23. Bugs

    Bugs
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    Aug 30, 2017
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    Loc:
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    This spade connector is at times touching the air intake the insulation separates them but could this be a draw.



    spadecon.jpg
     
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  24. Stovensen

    Stovensen
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    Feb 1, 2010
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    Good observation, Bugs. The cables on your old auger motor had a better routing, that's for sure. I've inserted your own pic, so we can compare. But hey, the new end plate should have a rubber bumper included. Is it possible to rest the auger housing/gearbox on this bumper, so that the spade connectors are turned away from the bottom of stove. The auger motor will function in any angle, just as long as it has something to rest on, when it is working ( producing torgue )
    Bug's 1991 Advantage II-T'.jpeg
     
  25. Stovensen

    Stovensen
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    Feb 1, 2010
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    All the wiring needs a close inspection, and from your latest post, I can see that you have already started on this.

    Your pics from the garage/shop are quite sharp and detailed, and from here nothing appears damaged or torn on the wiring harness. But a very close scrutiny with a lamp and a magnifying glass is needed. Is the insultation on the wires damaged in any remote places?

    Is there any humidity combined with dirt/salts on the terminal strip that could turn conductive between the terminals? Yes, dirt combined with humidity can certainly be conductive if the dirt is just a little bit salty!!

    Since it is the auger triac thats keeps blowing, everything points in direction of the auger and its wiring, though.
    It should be possible to measure the current, the auger draws by taking a reading with an ampèremeter. You could insert the amp-meter several places: On the terminal strip by unplugging the spade connector on terminal point no.5 and insert the amp-meter in series with the disconnected points. See pictures of terminal strip below.
    But access to the auger current measurement looks much better on the pressure switch. See picture from your shop.
    The augercurrent flows through both pressure switch and inlet high limit switch and is the same through the entire chain, no matter where the amp-meter is inserted in the chain:
    Bugs' Advantage kabeloversigt.jpg


    Access for augercurrent measurement is probably better on the pressure switch:

    Bug's 1991 Advantage II-T.jpeg

    Now we are determined on both sides of the Atlantic to make this pellet stove work :)
    Good luck and take care. Keep us posted
     

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