Whitfield optima 3 eye issues

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Mouse4x4

New Member
Dec 27, 2017
6
Eastern shore
So I am constantly having to clean the eye on this stove, it is a insert so it is a real PITA to pull the eye out and clean the lense thru the hopper. I have read a few other posts about using a 120/140° ceramic snap disc sensor (open on rise) and placing it in the exhaust side of the machine to bypass the need for the eye. Is this possible and have any of you done this. The stove works great when everything is clean but it seems like some pellets I get burn alot dirtier then others and foul the eye out quickly.
 
I have seen the post of the conversion done that Don222 wrote up for the optima stove just was curious if it would work the same way with my controller and not cause any issues.
 
By cleaning your photoeye do you mean taking out from the hopper, cleaning it and putting it back in or do you mean blowing using compressed air along the left vertical outside of your pellet feed tube (small slit between the metal and the firebrick facing? Photoeyes don't usually go bad though it is possible and they don't need much light to 'close' (complete the circuit). For a proper cleaning always do both. If you need to run the stove to see if it is the photoeye jumper the two yellow wires that go to the photoeye. The stove should run, but remember it is running now without a safety feature.
To install a snapswitch get a low temp proof of fire snapswitch (one that closes above 120 degrees or less) and mount it on something that gets hot quickly, usually the exhaust tube. Use the yellow wires that went to the photoeye. Mount it on the side usually, as the top sometimes gets really hot and damages the wiring. Sometimes there is a port already cut but still blocked. If no port then screw it in, or if that is difficult then use a band clamp. Last resort for temporary fix, use a samarium cobalt magnet between the switch and the side of the exhaust (don't use a ferrite or neodynium magnet as they will demagnetize and the switch will fall off when the stove gets hot). Worst case is that you have blocked access to the exhaust tube. If so and you need your stove now, band clamp the switch to the top of your exhaust thimble just after it exits your stove. That approach is much safer than just eliminating the photoeye switch by jumpering the yellow wires as the safety features of your stove remain intact. But then as soon as you can and have the time, shut down and make the modification permanently by installing on the side of your exhaust duct inside your stove. Hope that helps.
 
Yea I usually in the past just pull the eye and lense out thru the hopper which is tight. The lense is wavy an bubbly looking and really prolly needs replaced. But I am at the point if I can add this ceramic switch and do away with the troublesome eye I am going to do that.