Why ceramic insulation and firebrick in bottom of stove?

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Nov 29, 2016
11
Texas
Can anyone tell my why a stove would need ceramic insulation board and firebrick in the bottom. Mind you this is NOT a baffle, bottom of stove layered as follows firebrick, ceramic insulation board and then the steel of the floor.
I am asking this because I purchased a WoodPro WS-TS-2500 for our new home. (1550sq feet under a/c). My husband thinks the firebox is not tall enough to load it up for an overnight run. I have since purchased a Country Hearth 2000.
After inspecting both stoves I feel the better made one is the WoodPro. I think I can convince him to use it if I remove the layer of ceramic in the bottom creating a little bit more room.
I think, but not sure, that the manufacturer put that layer in for a smaller distance from combustibles. This would not be a problem, we will have it diagonal to the corner with 12" from wall to closest corner of the stove.
Can anyone help me out here?
Both stoves list the same 2 cubic feet and 21" logs. My husband likes to pile wood up past the firebrick. He would not be able to do this in the WoodPro.
 
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the insulation in the bottom of the stove may be the difference between needing only spark protection to needing a hearth with some type of R value, unless your stove is installed on a cement slab i'd leave the insulation in there if it was me.
 
the insulation in the bottom of the stove may be the difference between needing only spark protection to needing a hearth with some type of R value, unless your stove is installed on a cement slab i'd leave the insulation in there if it was me.

It is on cement, stained concrete floors.
 
Can anyone help me out here?
Are you talking about taking out the firebrick to? I would think that you could get away with pulling the insulation because you are on concrete although doing so would void the ul listing. But the fire brick are there to protect the floor of the stove I would not pull them.
 
Welcome to the forums. In addition to floor protection, the insulation may help to keep the firebox interior hotter to get and maintain good secondary combustion. It would also help protect the steel floor. I would guess you could get away without it on a solid cement floor, but removing it only gets you a measly extra 1/2", correct? The firebricks take up a bit more space, but you don't want to burn without them for sure.
 
Are you talking about taking out the firebrick to? I would think that you could get away with pulling the insulation because you are on concrete although doing so would void the ul listing. But the fire brick are there to protect the floor of the stove I would not pull them.
Just pulling out the insulation layer, not the firebrick.
 
Welcome to the forums. In addition to floor protection, the insulation may help to keep the firebox interior hotter to get and maintain good secondary combustion. It would also help protect the steel floor. I would guess you could get away without it on a solid cement floor, but removing it only gets you a measly extra 1/2", correct? The firebricks take up a bit more space, but you don't want to burn without them for sure.
If it were completely up to me, it would have already been installed with the insulation. I'm just trying to convince my husband that the WoodPro is the one we need to install. I have several reasons for this, all concerning the way my husband operates the stove. I have not been able to get him to understand that the stoves made today are not the same as the one he used as a kid in the 70's. If I can get him to go with the WoodPro he will not be able to pile the wood up past the firebrick and warp the sides as he did to our Magnolia in the last house.
 
It really will not gain much, just want to get my hubby on board. (see other replies)
fair enough. But he should be able to pack any stove full regardless as long as it is setup and run properly without having any issues.
 
If my husband would load and use the stoves as they are built for today it would not be a problem at all. But that just is not who I am dealing with. I'm pretty sure, no, I know, he does not think I know anything about the stoves or how they work or how to properly operate them. But thanks to all of you on here and some other forums, He Is Wrong. ;)
 
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If it were completely up to me, it would have already been installed with the insulation. I'm just trying to convince my husband that the WoodPro is the one we need to install. I have several reasons for this, all concerning the way my husband operates the stove. I have not been able to get him to understand that the stoves made today are not the same as the one he used as a kid in the 70's. If I can get him to go with the WoodPro he will not be able to pile the wood up past the firebrick and warp the sides as he did to our Magnolia in the last house.
Not sure the WoodPro will fare any better. Some of these Chinese stoves don't seem to last too well.
 
fair enough. But he should be able to pack any stove full regardless as long as it is setup and run properly without having any issues.
Please refer to my latest reply on here. I love him dearly but have a hard time convincing him he is wrong, much less that I am right. LOL :confused:
 
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Not sure, same I think. For a 3.0 cu ft stove look at the Englander (US) and Drolet (CA) brands.
 
Not sure, same I think. For a 3.0 cu ft stove look at the Englander (US) and Drolet (CA) brands.
Thanks, we really do not need 3 cubic feet though. We are only heating a single floor home of 1550 sq feet, in North Central Texas no less. Guess I am just not ready to give up this bone. After 23 years of marriage you would think I would learn. LOL
 
I have not been able to get him to understand that the stoves made today are not the same as the one he used as a kid in the 70's. If I can get him to go with the WoodPro he will not be able to pile the wood up past the firebrick and warp the sides as he did to our Magnolia in the last house.

Haha... well, I had no idea how stoves had changed since the 70s, either, until I got one some years back. Takes some experience to really understand. Try to let him know a newer stove with good, dry wood he will get longer burns and more heat with less wood, if run properly.
 
Haha... well, I had no idea how stoves had changed since the 70s, either, until I got one some years back. Takes some experience to really understand. Try to let him know a newer stove with good, dry wood he will get longer burns and more heat with less wood, if run properly.
From your post to his brain! :)
 
If I can get him to go with the WoodPro he will not be able to pile the wood up past the firebrick and warp the sides as he did to our Magnolia in the last house.

I have a Magnolia, been our primary heat source for the last 5 years, had it installed in the basement for a few trying to heat from there, so it has been run pretty darn hard and i've never managed to bow or warp any thing on it, he must have had it glowing.
 
Thanks, we really do not need 3 cubic feet though. We are only heating a single floor home of 1550 sq feet, in North Central Texas no less. Guess I am just not ready to give up this bone. After 23 years of marriage you would think I would learn. LOL
Last I looked your area can get some wicked cold weather rolling off the plains. Take a look at the Englander Madison at 2.45 cu ft and the 2.0 cu ft True North TN20.
 
I have a Magnolia, been our primary heat source for the last 5 years, had it installed in the basement for a few trying to heat from there, so it has been run pretty darn hard and i've never managed to bow or warp any thing on it, he must have had it glowing.
Past red and orange to almost the yellow color you get with a cutting torch!!
 
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