Will this be ready for September?

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Hi everyone, I split and stacked some hard maple from a tree that Was brought down from my yard. It was done by the end of march, I have about 4 racks like this. It is in a breezy area and always looks drier everytime I look at it.what do you think, will it be good to go in September or should I wait the extra year. Thanks for all your opinions.

 

[n3pro]

Possible, but I would wait another year is I could or at least toward the end of the season. Just my thoughts.

 

[fossil]

Got a moisture meter? Re-split a piece from time to time & see if you can tell how it's doing. That's more meaningful information than anyone here can provide by looking at a pic on a computer. Nice looking wood, BTW, and the fact that you seem to have split it nice and small will certainly work in your favor. Time will tell, this coming Fall might be iffy...but I really recommend a moisture meter. Rick

 

[begreen]

Try it. Maybe not in Sept. but possibly by December. Split that small I think it will dry out ok for burning.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Thanks guys, I actually split that wood pretty big, I have other stuff that I split smaller. This stuff was 14" or bigger,up to 30, lots of middle wood. I'm trying to split big but it seems like I'm not, is that so? Thanks for all your input

 

[fossil]

Not talking about length...talking about cross-sectional area. I don't see one piece in that rack that you left as a round. You split everything at least once, and mostly more than once. That's what we're talking about splitting "small". If you left, say, everything under 6" diameter in rounds, that wouldn't be splitting as small. You got some kinda big odd-shaped chunks in there, but they have a lot of exposed surface area, which is what wood drying is all about..

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Not talking about length...talking about cross-sectional area. I don't see one piece in that rack that you left as a round. You split everything at least once, and mostly more than once. That's what we're talking about splitting "small". If you left, say, everything under 6" diameter in rounds, that wouldn't be splitting as small. You got some kinda big odd-shaped chunks in there, but they have a lot of exposed surface area, which is what wood drying is all about..

Thanks s fossil, yes, now rounds here in this pic, these came from very big rounds like 25" or so, the company cut them up for me, I asked for 16-18 in or so, but some were cut short, hence the odd shaped chunks. I get what your saying. I guess I just need to split bigger....

 

[ansehnlich1]

my best burning firewood is checked on the ends, grey in color, and has been sitting at least a year, preferably two.

you're looking at 6 months seasoning time if you start burning that maple in oct.

i just cut/split/stacked all kinds of different wood, and you can easy tell by looking at it the difference between it's light color and the grey stuff that's well seasoned.

i agree with the above comment, the only way to know for sure is split it and stick it with a moisture meter in the fall, see what it says.

 

[gerry100]

You'll get a lot more heat out of it if you wait a year

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

I just threw in 2 chunks from near the top off the rack, onto red hot coals in my insert, one flamed up almost immediately and the next one flamed up 3 minutes later, these have been split for no longer then 6-8 weeks. This is what they did...

I will send pic

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

I just threw in 2 chunks from near the top off the rack, onto red hot coals in my insert, one flamed up almost immediately and the next one flamed up 3 minutes later, these have been split for no longer then 6-8 weeks. This is what they did...

I will send pic

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Any thoughts on having to wait 2 years?

 

[DexterDay]

Your still burnin right now?

Silver Maple. This Winter will be awesome.

Hard Maple.. Crap shoot. As others stated, split a lil smaller, and/or buy a MM?

 

[swagler85]

Even wet wood will burn, the issue isn't getting it to burn from a hot bed of coals. It's getting it to burn hot and not lose the heat in steam up the chimney and cause creosote. Believe me I learned that even after they told me here, but you burn what you got.

 

[alforit]

That wood is perdy !....... I'm jealous

 

[bogydave]

but you burn what you got.

+1

What's your CSS wood status?

Stuff will be better than any you can buy.
Yet to go thru your hot summer, so it will be a lot drier in Nov.

But 2 full summers of seasoning will make it awesome stuff (if you can).

 

[TimJ]

Find some fast drying wood and get it split and stacked and if you must burn that maple mix it in.
I don't think you will be burning in Sept.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Your still burnin right now?

Silver Maple. This Winter will be awesome.

Hard Maple.. Crap shoot. As others stated, split a lil smaller, and/or buy a MM?

Yes, I walked in the door from work yesterday,saw it was 62 in the house, went straight to the fire starter and kindling pile and lit one up. Room went up to 78. But it was nice to see and have....

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Any thoughts on having to wait 2 years?

Ram, the way you split and stacked is in your favor. What I mean is that you've stacked it a bit loosely which allows wind to go through and air circulation is the biggest key to drying wood. Had you split it larger then it definitely would be a problem. As it is, there are only a few that could be re-split and because there are only a few, I would not worry about it.

You will probably end up burning it next winter and it will give you heat. It will not be ideal but will burn. Just let this become one lesson in wood burning. Most of us take lessons from time to time. What you will find about wood like this is that yes, it can be burned sooner than recommended and it will burn and give heat. However, if you can wait an extra year you will usually be amazed at the difference. You get more heat from less wood when you give it a longer drying time.

As for the moisture meter, many seem really hot on them but I've burned wood over 50 years now and still see no need for one. What I usually find is those who depend on the MM are those who don't or won't get their wood ahead of time. I'm not trying to knock anyone here but just stating what I've noticed. You certainly can use a MM if you like just like you can use some other tools and gadgets but to say they are necessary is not true. In my book there is nothing that will beat giving the wood an extra year of drying. The benefits are great!

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Ram, the way you split and stacked is in your favor. What I mean is that you've stacked it a bit loosely which allows wind to go through and air circulation is the biggest key to drying wood. Had you split it larger then it definitely would be a problem. As it is, there are only a few that could be re-split and because there are only a few, I would not worry about it.

You will probably end up burning it next winter and it will give you heat. It will not be ideal but will burn. Just let this become one lesson in wood burning. Most of us take lessons from time to time. What you will find about wood like this is that yes, it can be burned sooner than recommended and it will burn and give heat. However, if you can wait an extra year you will usually be amazed at the difference. You get more heat from less wood when you give it a longer drying time.

As for the moisture meter, many seem really hot on them but I've burned wood over 50 years now and still see no need for one. What I usually find is those who depend on the MM are those who don't or won't get their wood ahead of time. I'm not trying to knock anyone here but just stating what I've noticed. You certainly can use a MM if you like just like you can use some other tools and gadgets but to say they are necessary is not true. In my book there is nothing that will beat giving the wood an extra year of drying. The benefits are great!

Great, thanks for your advice, I appreciate your wisdom. This is exactly what I was fishing for on this great forum that we have, I am very new to this wood burning world, but I love what I have and do, so I am taking it quite seriously and enjoying it at the same time....

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Ram, the way you split and stacked is in your favor. What I mean is that you've stacked it a bit loosely which allows wind to go through and air circulation is the biggest key to drying wood. Had you split it larger then it definitely would be a problem. As it is, there are only a few that could be re-split and because there are only a few, I would not worry about it.

You will probably end up burning it next winter and it will give you heat. It will not be ideal but will burn. Just let this become one lesson in wood burning. Most of us take lessons from time to time. What you will find about wood like this is that yes, it can be burned sooner than recommended and it will burn and give heat. However, if you can wait an extra year you will usually be amazed at the difference. You get more heat from less wood when you give it a longer drying time.

As for the moisture meter, many seem really hot on them but I've burned wood over 50 years now and still see no need for one. What I usually find is those who depend on the MM are those who don't or won't get their wood ahead of time. I'm not trying to knock anyone here but just stating what I've noticed. You certainly can use a MM if you like just like you can use some other tools and gadgets but to say they are necessary is not true. In my book there is nothing that will beat giving the wood an extra year of drying. The benefits are great!

I have some stuff that was split 6 months earlier, some ash and red oak, I can also get a delivery from a reputable dealer near by but expensive, I will have to see what I can do for next season. He had a face cord of hickory and oak that I bought in feb when I got my insert and it was awesome, just expensive, but I wanted nice stuff to burn in a new beautiful insert,,,,

 

[oldspark]

"As for the moisture meter, many seem really hot on them but I've burned wood over 50 years now and still see no need for one. What I usually find is those who depend on the MM are those who don't or won't get their wood ahead of time. I'm not trying to knock anyone here but just stating what I've noticed. You certainly can use a MM if you like just like you can use some other tools and gadgets but to say they are necessary is not true. In my book there is nothing that will beat giving the wood an extra year of drying. The benefits are great"
BWS your record is stuck, give it a bump, many people have MM's that cut their wood ahead of time including me, for the new wood burner or the one who has limited storage they are a valuble tool just like your hyd. splitter, you want them to burn dry wood but you scoff at MM's, I just dont get it.

 

[Adios Pantalones]

It will be the driest wood that you have. Check the flue often, and burn it (IMO)

 

[Backwoods Savage]

"As for the moisture meter, many seem really hot on them but I've burned wood over 50 years now and still see no need for one. What I usually find is those who depend on the MM are those who don't or won't get their wood ahead of time. I'm not trying to knock anyone here but just stating what I've noticed. You certainly can use a MM if you like just like you can use some other tools and gadgets but to say they are necessary is not true. In my book there is nothing that will beat giving the wood an extra year of drying. The benefits are great"
BWS your record is stuck, give it a bump, many people have MM's that cut their wood ahead of time including me, for the new wood burner or the one who has limited storage they are a valuble tool just like your hyd. splitter, you want them to burn dry wood but you scoff at MM's, I just dont get it.

Don't get hot now oldspark. I have no problem if you or others want to use a MM except that many times it appears some do not know how to use them correctly. It also appears that many are just trying to cut the corners as quickly as they can and still end up burning marginal wood. That is when bad things happen. I like the Kiss principle. Stack it up and let it dry. I've found no better way.

I also will not be searching for a way to unstick the record. So long as I see a problem, I will attempt to help. If I quit helping others, I'll also be leaving this forum. Until then, please bear with me but don't send me a MM. I don't need it.

 

[oldspark]

BWS, many people dont know how to run or install wood burners to the point of burning their house down and even harming people and yet you like them.
I am not upset or hot, its just for new wood burners and people with limited storage or even some who may have had a hip or knee replaced and could not cut wood for a while a MM can save a lot of grief. I know for a fact that I am not the first one to tell you this, what advice would you give a new wood burner, wait 3 years before you start burning. I am surprised you have a computer as you do not like techy things.
Just having a little fun here.