Hello, I just installed my new wood stove and am thinking about connecting an OAK. There is existing OAK ductwork that was professionally installed but the inlet terminates above the height of the wood stove which I heard could be a problem because of the possibility of draft reversal. The duct for the OAK is 3" and runs up the masonry chimney about 7 feet then exits out the back of the chimney into a upside down U shape that terminates upside down through the ceiling of the porch. My chimney liner is 35 feet and 8" in diameter. Would this work or should I forgo the OAK? Thank you!
Will this OAK connection work?
- Thread starter jackerama
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
I should have mentioned that. I have a Jotul F600 and the OAK inlet is at the bottom of the stove.
No, that would not work for this stove. IIRC the outside air connection on the F600 directly feeds the primary air. The OAK could be set up with the duct ending a few inches from the stove's OAK inlet so that there is an air gap, but not directly connected.
Ok good to know. Do you think it would be worth it to set it up that way vs. just letting it get air from inside the house? I was thinking of doing it because the ductwork was already there. Also because the spot on the tile hearth right under the air intake has been getting pretty hot and I thought the cold air from outside would maybe help that situation. It got around 150 F in that spot while taking the stove up to 300 F surface temperature for the second initial burn-in. I measured the subfloor underneath from the basement in that spot and it only got up to 72 F though.
If the air can be brought in from outside below the stove, through the basement would be fine. So would bringing it in through the wall just below the firebox.
Ok thank you. I think the layout of the basement would be prohibitive of doing that unfortunately. I was hoping I could just hook it up to the existing ductwork but I'll definitely play it safe and not do that. I'm hoping the floor temp will be better the for the third phase of the burn-in because I noticed that the front spacer of the bottom heat shield got compressed so the gap was much bigger in the back then the front so maybe all of the hot air from the bottom was being dumped towards the back of the stove. The floor temp was about 80 except for the one spot under the primary air intake.
Similar threads
