Wood burning stove heat.

[Itslay90]

Where do you get the most of the heat .
The glass,or the top of the stove ?

 

[bholler]

Where do you get the most of the heat .
The glass,or the top of the stove ?

That depends on the stove, the draft, and how it's being run.

 

[fvhowler]

I think a lot depends on stove design. For my stove intense heat comes through glass front door when burning hot. Longterm burn nice radiant heat from all around the unit and if your stove pipe is exposed in the room good heat from there as well.

 

[Itslay90]

That depends on the stove, the draft, and how it's being run.

Thanks, I just wanted to know,

 

[Itslay90]

I think a lot depends on stove design. For my stove intense heat comes through glass front door when burning hot. Longterm burn nice radiant heat from all around the unit and if your stove pipe is exposed in the room good heat from there as well.

Yes, I noticed that. last year my wood wasn’t really that seasoned, but this year I have wood that been seasoning for a year.

 

[electrathon]

On my Hearthstone, as best I can tell, almost all of the heat is from the glass.

 

[Itslay90]

On my Hearthstone, as best I can tell, almost all of the heat is from the glass.

Thank you,

 

[Itslay90]

I think a lot depends on stove design. For my stove intense heat comes through glass front door when burning hot. Longterm burn nice radiant heat from all around the unit and if your stove pipe is exposed in the room good heat from there as well.

What kinda stove do you have ?

 

[fvhowler]

What kinda stove do you have ?

Regency Hampton H300. It's a smaller stove no longer in production but a good little heater.

 

[Todd]

Yeah depends on the stove. My Jotul F45 has strong radiant heat from the front and top but the sides and back are shielded and block some of that radiant heat.

Seems most manufacturers have gone the route of shielded stoves for closer clearances and more convection type heat than the traditional blast your face radiant heat.

 

[Itslay90]

Yeah depends on the stove. My Jotul F45 has strong radiant heat from the front and top but the sides and back are shielded and block some of that radiant heat.

Seems most manufacturers have gone the route of shielded stoves for closer clearances and more convection type heat than the traditional blast your face radiant heat.

You don’t think they could’ve still made it radiant heat instead of convection heat, I’m trying to see which one is better

 

[Todd]

You don’t think they could’ve still made it radiant heat instead of convection heat, I’m trying to see which one is better

I could remove the shielding and make it fully radiant. I think the F500 is a radiant heater except for the back shielding. The soapstone stoves are also radiant but gives off a softer radiant heat.

I think the type of stove you would need depends on the type of space you’re trying to heat. If open floor plan with high ceilings a more radiant type stove would work better. A smaller space with more rooms a more convective stove could work better. Convective stoves also can be set up with blowers to push more of that heat.

 

[Itslay90]

I could remove the shielding and make it fully radiant. I think the F500 is a radiant heater except for the back shielding. The soapstone stoves are also radiant but gives off a softer radiant heat.

I think the type of stove you would need depends on the type of space you’re trying to heat. If open floor plan with high ceilings a more radiant type stove would work better. A smaller space with more rooms a more convective stove could work better. Convective stoves also can be set up with blowers to push more of that heat.

yeah. I got the blower last year, and I took it back. It was $500 and I said there’s no way I’m going to spent that. But I was told most of the heats comes from the glass. I don’t think that’s true or not but I know my wood wasn’t seasoned last year, but right now it is, so I’m going to try that. Probably next year I’m going to insulate the basement walls. “ people are saying it will save me a lot of wood in the process. The only high ceiling I have is in the living room. I was thinking bout taking the heat shields off and see, but I don’t really know yet just have to see how it burns. I have vents in my basement and the cold air comes down the stairs to reheat it and send it back upstairs. I love the glass and how the stove looks, compared to my timberline that I had when I bought the house

 

[Todd]

Yeah, insulating the basement walls and dry wood will make a huge difference. Strategically placed fans will help as well. A cheap box fan on the floor pointed towards the stove will help push the cooler air towards the stove and help push the warmer air out into the room.

What stove you have?

 

[Itslay90]

Yeah, insulating the basement walls and dry wood will make a huge difference. Strategically placed fans will help as well. A cheap box fan on the floor pointed towards the stove will help push the cooler air towards the stove and help push the warmer air out into the room.

What stove you have?

I have a pacific energy summit. LE

 

[begreen]

Regency Hampton H300. It's a smaller stove no longer in production but a good little heater.

That was a great stove. I'm sorry to see it discontinued.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Yes, I noticed that. last year my wood wasn’t really that seasoned, but this year I have wood that been seasoning for a year.

Your wood is still probably on the wet side if its only been a year, especially if its oak or other dense hardwoods. Your better off getting a moisture meter and checking some of your stacks in November. splitting medium is your friend if your short on seasoning time

 

[Itslay90]

wood is dry I split it last week, and it was good to go. 14-18

 

[begreen]

wood is dry I split it last week, and it was good to go. 14-18

This sounds like it was cut from standing dead trees. Dryness at that level from freshly split wood is not likely if the tree was alive, especially with the rainy weather and high humidity that has been seen this year back east.

 

[Itslay90]

This sounds like it was cut from standing dead trees. Dryness at that level from freshly split wood is not likely if the tree was alive, especially with the rainy weather and high humidity that has been seen this year back east.

Well, it was in my backyard and I moved it to an area where it gets a lot of sun and wind. But I just checked some more pieces, some are 21% and 25% so I’m hoping by the end of September those should be good to goo

 

[begreen]

Wood dries very slowly in rounds or log form. It does not really start to dry until split and stacked in a well-ventilated location.

 

[Itslay90]

Wood dries very slowly in rounds or log form. It does not really start to dry until split and stacked in a well-ventilated location.

My wood is

split and stacked but like I said. It should be good at the end of the month

 

[begreen]

It sounds like there will be some wetter splits in the mix. When getting splits to bring into the house, go by weight and sound. If you bang two splits together and they ring with a musical note, like a baseball bat, then the wood is likely dry inside. If they are heavier and go thunk, then set them aside for another couple of months of drying.

 

[Itslay90]

It sounds like there will be some wetter splits in the mix. When getting splits to bring into the house, go by weight and sound. If you bang two splits together and they ring with a musical note, like a baseball bat, then the wood is likely dry inside. If they are heavier and go thunk, then set them aside for another couple of months of drying.

Thanks, I’m going to keep that in mind for when the burning season starts,in a couple of months