Wood Cook Stove

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The gas furnace is more than 20 years old. I have no idea what the requirements are to vent a gas furnace (natural gas, hot water furnace with old fashioned radiators). Anyone have any ideas? I'd love to be able to use the interior chimney with a liner for this kitchen cook stove.

Maybe call the original installer? His sticker should be on the side of the furnace. 20 years is not that long, chances are he's still in business. Most installers only carry / install a few furnace models, and so he probably knows the requirements for your model inside and out.
 
The gas furnace is more than 20 years old. I have no idea what the requirements are to vent a gas furnace (natural gas, hot water furnace with old fashioned radiators). Anyone have any ideas? I'd love to be able to use the interior chimney with a liner for this kitchen cook stove.
Your old furnace probably requires the vent/chimney it is on now. Newer furnaces in the 90+ range are vented with PVC directly to the outside, and take combustion air directly from the outside through PVC as well. If you put in a new furnace like that, you could then utilize existing chimney if it is adequate for relining and wood burning.
 
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Do a Google search for Condensing Gas Furnace. The latest models are 2 stage, variable blower with an AFUE of 96.6%! If you have natural gas, that is the way to go.
 
I like it, but that price is high for me right now. I could have another stove with pipe installed for that much!!!
Take a real hard look at the Sopka wood/coal stoves at www.sopkainc.com. I have the Royal 720 installed and ready to go. I've baked bread in it a couple of times to get used to it. The owner of Sopka, Geno, is absolutely great in before and AFTER the sale. You can also work with him on the price a little too. Shipping right to your door can be had at no charge too. The stoves are made in Serbia where they are USED as the primary source of cooking and, in many cases, heating so they have to be good. Mine is one of the lower priced models and it is still very well insulated and built.
Don't be scared off by the Serbia part. It's one heck of a lot better than Made in China!!! :p
 
Take a real hard look at the Sopka wood/coal stoves at www.sopkainc.com. I have the Royal 720 installed and ready to go. I've baked bread in it a couple of times to get used to it. The owner of Sopka, Geno, is absolutely great in before and AFTER the sale. You can also work with him on the price a little too. Shipping right to your door can be had at no charge too. The stoves are made in Serbia where they are USED as the primary source of cooking and, in many cases, heating so they have to be good. Mine is one of the lower priced models and it is still very well insulated and built.
Don't be scared off by the Serbia part. It's one heck of a lot better than Made in China!!! :p

Those are good prices!
 

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I remember the Esse literature saying that you can run a couple of radiators off it's optional water jacket. Has anyone done this?
 
Yes, the Esse Iron Hearth can do 2.8 kW to the water, what is around 9,500 BTU/hr. It's optional tough.

The Vulcano 7E5 and Pertinger OkoAlpin models have the hydronic heater build-in. It's part of the appliance. 28,000 to 68,000 BTU/hr to the water is hugh.

Pertinger%20Okoalpine12


You can easly heat a 2,500SF home with this and also Domestic Hot Water for kitchen and showers.

Just wondering what we gone cook all day:)
 
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Although no longer hooked up, I still have this one, and am somewhat attached to it:

The exact same Home Comfort cookstove came with our house, and we used it our first year in the house. When we decided to add a liner for safety the logical place was where we spent the most time, and we needed more heat than the cookstove would provide, so it is in retirement. My grandparents had the same stove, too. My grandmother had custom pans made for boiling syrup, and had the stove in a room that could be closed off from the rest of the house and that had cross-ventilation (door/window). Great memories. My dad says his father said they made a big deal of dumping the crated stove off the back of the delivery truck to advertise its durability.

I grew up using a cookstove - once Fall burning began we were banned from using the electric stove. I love using a cookstove, and perhaps one day I will have the right configuration to allow using it again.
 
My grandmother had a huge beautiful Findlay that my Aunt GAVE AWAY to smeone across the lake.

Wish I had room in my kitchen, and a upper home layout that would allow for a flue, for a wood burning stove. Love wood stoves, hate supporting Ontario Hydro (excuse me, Hydroone).

Cook on my PH from Autumn til summer. Then I pretty much switch to the microwave...especially last summer. Too darn hot to eat hot meals...lots of luscious salads and stuffed vegetables.

Late August I decided to fire up the PH and do some preserving, and some steaming prior to freezing. BIG MISTAKE. With our 90 + degree weather, no one was taking to me pretty soon.

Wish I could figure a way to process some maple syrup in the house....any chance wet cheesecloth over a steel mesh would keep the sugar from destroying the house? Would love to tap my trees and make a few gallons of syrup...or even one to start. Wish I had a big cauldron so I could boil it down outside...
 
It's the steam that comes off that would be a challenge in the house. The ratio is like 40 to one so you would be boiling off something like 10 gallons of water to get one quart of syrup. That would have water dripping from the walls and windows.
 
We had some custom stainless pans made locally by the Amish for finishing syrup at our sugar house. The pans fit over the entire stovetop. This was alot cheaper than getting a finishing evaporator.

I wouldn't try doing this in the house though, On average, it takes 40-50 gallons of sap to make one gallon of syrup. Unless you pass it through an RO unit, all of that moisture is going into the house.
 
We had some custom stainless pans made locally by the Amish for finishing syrup at our sugar house. The pans fit over the entire stovetop. This was alot cheaper than getting a finishing evaporator.

I wouldn't try doing this in the house though, On average, it takes 40-50 gallons of sap to make one gallon of syrup. Unless you pass it through an RO unit, all of that moisture is going into the house.

What size to they make the RO units? Any small scale ones?
 
...snip...
Wish I could figure a way to process some maple syrup in the house....any chance wet cheesecloth over a steel mesh would keep the sugar from destroying the house? Would love to tap my trees and make a few gallons of syrup...or even one to start. Wish I had a big cauldron so I could boil it down outside...

I made a couple of quarts of syrup on the PH last spring. My biggest issue, with the original one-piece top, was any drops of sap that hit the soapstone stained it. Yes, I could sand it off, but only a finite number of times. I'm looking forward to using the cast iron cooktop this spring.
 
I made a couple of quarts of syrup on the PH last spring. My biggest issue, with the original one-piece top, was any drops of sap that hit the soapstone stained it. Yes, I could sand it off, but only a finite number of times. I'm looking forward to using the cast iron cooktop this spring.
Did you do anything to keep from getting the house sticky? I've always been told that if you boil the syrup down in the house, sticky sugar from the boiling gets all over everything? No problem? If none, I'm going for it!
 
Did you do anything to keep from getting the house sticky? I've always been told that if you boil the syrup down in the house, sticky sugar from the boiling gets all over everything? No problem? If none, I'm going for it!


It helps to have an airy old farmhouse with kitchen wall paper that I'd just as soon have peel off. We usually run an open-topped teapot all winter. The sugaring pans put a little more water out, but we were only processing sap from one tap. No, the house doesn't feel sticky. But the water does have to go somewhere - I would be careful in a tighter house. One option is to try one tap and not feel obligated to boil all the sap produced.

I think the PH cooktop is going to get the sap hotter (it simmered on the one-piece top, but I'd bet it will boil on the cooktop). There is a sugarhouse in my future, but probably only one tap again this spring.
 
It helps to have an airy old farmhouse with kitchen wall paper that I'd just as soon have peel off. We usually run an open-topped teapot all winter. The sugaring pans put a little more water out, but we were only processing sap from one tap. No, the house doesn't feel sticky. But the water does have to go somewhere - I would be careful in a tighter house. One option is to try one tap and not feel obligated to boil all the sap produced.

I think the PH cooktop is going to get the sap hotter (it simmered on the one-piece top, but I'd bet it will boil on the cooktop). There is a sugarhouse in my future, but probably only one tap again this spring.
Thanks. I'm going to give it a try.
 
Here's my Sopkainc.com Royal cook stove merrily burning some coal. After it got going, it held 375 in the oven for hours. At the time of the picture, it was 300.
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