Wood moisture readers....what % is ready

[jj3500]

I yet to buy one. But what is the "ready" percentage to burn. Or is it even used as a percentage? What is the scale?

Thank you!

 

[d.n.f.]

I will be corrected but I think it is under 25%.

 

[Jags]

I will be corrected but I think it is under 25%.

No correction necessary. You got it. Although, the closer you can get to 20%, the better.

 

[Corey]

And don't forget - that is read on the surface of a freshly split piece, near the center of mass of the wood. 20% there means drier everywhere else and you're good to go. If you just stick the meter on the end of a piece or in the bark, that is not a true reading and the wood could still be wet inside.

 

[North of 60]

12 to 15% is required for the BKs cat from there demonstration video. There is a night and day differance when I have burned @ 20% from my old stove habits. My older non-cat EPA stove liked to runaway during the burn with anything less. The BK seems to still have no problem settling it down to a smolder and put out tremendous heat. This is probably why it still likes the lower #s. These #s are taken from a fresh split on the new open surface. Thats why I still give dead standing pine two summers of seasoning with the newer stove. Thought Id mention this for just a comparison on the stoves themselves relating to moisture content in the fuel.
N of 60

EDIT 12 to 18% MC

 

[jdinspector]

12 to 15% is required for the BKs cat from there demonstration video. There is a night and day differance when I have burned @ 20% from my old stove habits. My older non-cat EPA stove liked to runaway during the burn with anything less. The BK seems to still have no problem settling it down to a smolder and put out tremendous heat. This is probably why it still likes the lower #s. These #s are taken from a fresh split on the new open surface. Thats why I still give dead standing pine two summers of seasoning with the newer stove. Thought Id mention this for just a comparison on the stoves themselves relating to moisture content in the fuel.
N of 60

Now you're getting me nervous about how dry my wood will be next fall. I'll be experiencing my first full winter with a catalytic stove next year. My previous experience (12+ years) with a non-cat was that 20% MC was fine. I did burn some "not so dry" wood in the new cat stove this March and April. It seemed to work pretty good. I hope the wood I split in December '08 will be dry for next winter. It's been in my open-sided, covered wood shed since it was split. Probably not the greatest to push it all together in a large stack, but it's all I have room to do. It has worked in years past.

 

[jdinspector]

Just a follow-up to the post about the Blaze King. Correct me if I'm wrong, but kiln dried lumber is about 12%, right? It seems unlikely that most people would be able to air dry wood to that level before they burn it.

 

[North of 60]

Just a follow-up to the post about the Blaze King. Correct me if I'm wrong, but kiln dried lumber is about 12%, right? It seems unlikely that most people would be able to air dry wood to that level before they burn it.

Personally Ive only measured down to 15%. 5% of 20% makes a big diff on heat output and burn time. Since my stove is thermostatic it will give it less air for dryer wood to get the same heat output, therefore give it longer burn times. I think Todd or Dennis/ Backwoods Savage can tell you their happy #s. I dont think you should worry once you get 25% or lower. Efficiency will be the only loss. Not CAT damage. Your bypass may have to be left open longer after reloading, is what I would imagine. There was a thread here Named BK 101. When I find it I will Cut and Past the Video link.
You have bought a great stove and welcome to the CAT club.
N of 60

 

[North of 60]

Here it is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBSNWKI-d-A

EDIT: The video is pretty biased and picks some pretty basic stoves for its comparison but it will let you know where Iam coming from. ;-)
N of 60