I am building a passive solar house with high thermal mass in a part of the world where they don't really belong. (Winters are too grey; summers are too humid.) Happily, the rest of design is quite sensible. The house will be small and supertight with very good windows and good insulation. Multiple calculators put the heat loss at about 25k btu/hr at a winter design temperature of 10 degrees F, and roughly 40k btu at the worst-on-record temperature of 37 below. The calculators don't consider passive solar, which should be sufficient by itself until the ambient temperature drops below 50 and stays there.
My question: Is anyone using a wood-stove back boiler and hydronic heat to assist passive solar, in effect, supplementing heat to be released at night? My mostly concrete house would lose about a degree an hour at the design loss of 25k btu/hr. The trick would be to add enough heat during the day to carry the house overnight. Yes, a wood stove would perform that service with or without hydronic. But I already have the concrete, and it could modulate temperature swings to 10 degrees at most.
The stove would heat an indirect tank by thermosiphon. I'd use an electric boiler to provide backup heat as well as on-demand domestic hot water.
The rest gets murkier. The stove would have to be smallish to burn hot enough in a small house to meet boiler demands and maintain efficiency. Passive solar, if it works, would shrink the heating season to December and January. I can't add active solar to the tank because the house is in the deep woods. For two residents, domestic hot water needs are modest.
Should I size the tank for heating and divide the year into hot-tank and cold-tank periods, with the hot part being maintained by the electric boiler? (Needless to say, hydronic would be a closed loop system.) Should I commit to an extended hot tank season of four or five months, up from two or three, to garner savings by preheating domestic hot water? Should I shrink the tank and allow it to go cold at any point, while plumbing backup heat directly into the hydronic system? What can I do to preserve options if any part of this turns out to be much different than expectations?
All I can say in my defense is that the view justifies the windows.
My question: Is anyone using a wood-stove back boiler and hydronic heat to assist passive solar, in effect, supplementing heat to be released at night? My mostly concrete house would lose about a degree an hour at the design loss of 25k btu/hr. The trick would be to add enough heat during the day to carry the house overnight. Yes, a wood stove would perform that service with or without hydronic. But I already have the concrete, and it could modulate temperature swings to 10 degrees at most.
The stove would heat an indirect tank by thermosiphon. I'd use an electric boiler to provide backup heat as well as on-demand domestic hot water.
The rest gets murkier. The stove would have to be smallish to burn hot enough in a small house to meet boiler demands and maintain efficiency. Passive solar, if it works, would shrink the heating season to December and January. I can't add active solar to the tank because the house is in the deep woods. For two residents, domestic hot water needs are modest.
Should I size the tank for heating and divide the year into hot-tank and cold-tank periods, with the hot part being maintained by the electric boiler? (Needless to say, hydronic would be a closed loop system.) Should I commit to an extended hot tank season of four or five months, up from two or three, to garner savings by preheating domestic hot water? Should I shrink the tank and allow it to go cold at any point, while plumbing backup heat directly into the hydronic system? What can I do to preserve options if any part of this turns out to be much different than expectations?
All I can say in my defense is that the view justifies the windows.