Both are good options. The large Drolets draft a little easier if the height of the flue system is on the shorter side of 15'.
Wood Stove Decision Advice
- Thread starter Mtnfresh
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xman23
Minister of Fire
The get the most out of the tight space, consider a corner installation. Look into rear heat shields for the stove and stove pipe. It allows the stove to get closer to the wall. I did it and it helps a lot. Insulate, insulate, insulate, If this is a log exterior walls, there not the greatest R value. Timber frame the inside is where to put the wood. Good windows and doors. Open floor plan makes a small house feel big. Also helps with a wood stove not overheating the room. The slab, being the living level can suck up a lot of heat. I don't know exactly what to do with the slab. But I think 8 inches or more of foam insulation board and vapor barrier under the concrete floor is what you need. Materials today make it easy to build a efficient maintenance free house.
I would go with the bigger stove. You just run it with less wood, not so hot. When that's to much heat you let it burn out. Backup propane on a thermostat is a good solution. I would make sure the propane is vented. I've know a few people that lost a few brain cells with unvented propane heaters. If your not set on wood you can get the free standing stove, but it's propane.
I would go with the bigger stove. You just run it with less wood, not so hot. When that's to much heat you let it burn out. Backup propane on a thermostat is a good solution. I would make sure the propane is vented. I've know a few people that lost a few brain cells with unvented propane heaters. If your not set on wood you can get the free standing stove, but it's propane.
It's an ugly old tank. Not efficient, just a big belly that likes to munch wood. If going for a King or Princess, you want the catalytic version.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
We should also remind folks that in certain states, counties and cities, installing a pre EPA wood heater is illegal.
planner steve
Burning Hunk
Just some input for deciding what is "undersized". I have a 1800 sq ft house in North Idaho, recently built and well insulated. I have a PE Super 27 which has a max 72,000 BTU rating, which appears to be about the same as the Englander NC-32. It would be difficult to not overheat this house with this stove if I was relying on it for sole source of heat. I often build a fire in the evening and if I load in no more than half the height of the firebox, it will make the main living areas too hot in a relatively short time. If I had it to do over again, I would have bought a smaller woodstove and still been able to heat this house if needed.
If heating for a long season with only wood, I would want to have a stove sized so that I could load it a minimum number of times per day yet burn hot enough to be reasonably efficient and not generate smoke.
My point is you can get too big of a woodstove and need to understand how many BTU's it takes to heat your house. If it is well insulated, it would be easy to oversize.
I do like the PE Super 27 overall. I think PE makes well engineered stoves for a reasonable value. I am not a paid spokesperson.
Thanks #planner Steve
This is what I was wondering. If there is actually a too big that isn’t allowing you to use the stove the best efficient way. I would prefer something that is just right and obviously works really good for my 16x36.
Appreciate your input
This is what I was wondering. If there is actually a too big that isn’t allowing you to use the stove the best efficient way. I would prefer something that is just right and obviously works really good for my 16x36.
Appreciate your input
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Overheating is possible, but you have to think of the full spectrum of weather within which you need to heat, and this the full spectrum of BTU outputs needed.
If it gets that cold there, but in a small place, and you don't have a system able to heat in shoulder seasons (at lower output), then you may need to be looking for a stove that is able to (stably) output over a large range of outputs. But indeed after you understand the BTUs needed (there are calculators for this available online).
If it gets that cold there, but in a small place, and you don't have a system able to heat in shoulder seasons (at lower output), then you may need to be looking for a stove that is able to (stably) output over a large range of outputs. But indeed after you understand the BTUs needed (there are calculators for this available online).
BKVP
Minister of Fire
BTU Calculator
Two free calculators estimate the number of BTUs needed to cool or heat a room or house based on its size, insulation, and some other conditions.
www.calculator.net
BTU calculations are good for 24/7 heating. However, there are exceptions and the cabin sounds like one due to confounding factors like extreme temperature range, fair insulation, peaked ceiling and the need to bring a cold space up to temperature in a reasonable time. This is quite different than the heating conditions in a 24/7 occupied, tight, and well-insulated home in a milder climate. My choice would be a 2-2.5 cu ft stove like the Super or the Madison, but then there is one more confounding factor and that is the consideration that an addition is already being discussed.
Mtnfresh, what are the planned insulation levels for the walls and attic or roof? How large of an addition is being considered? At what temp will the propane heat maintain the building when you are away in winter?
Mtnfresh, what are the planned insulation levels for the walls and attic or roof? How large of an addition is being considered? At what temp will the propane heat maintain the building when you are away in winter?
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
When I asked the response was: "Full time for the most part in the fall and winters". I was not certain what "the most part" means. If one takes a vacation during the winter, then reheating the place on return could take a significant increase in btus.
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