Wood stove in fireplace

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Mercury220

Member
May 27, 2010
72
Wilmington, DE
Hello all! I recently sold my house that I had installed a standalone woodstove. My new home has a pretty large fireplace. I obviously want to throw a wood stove in there but would like to avoid using an insert. I like the way the standalone stoves look and function.

My main question is, do clearances apply when being installed in a full brick fireplace? Also can I expect the install to be cheaper than having a stove installed with a full new stovepipe chimney?
 
Congrats on the new place, yes you can install a freestanding unit in your masonry fireplace, the clearances you will have to worry about is the front hearth area (18" from door w/ r rating from manufacturer) and if you have a combustible mantel. You will still need to install a liner (insulated if the chimney is on the outside envelope of the house, or you do not have proper masonry clearance to combustibles) down you chimney, block off plate, then a piece of black pipe (finish touch if there's a gap between the stove top and block off plate. So when you order your liner make sure you get a stainless steel appliance adapter to terminate the end of the liner.
 
aside from the hearth clearance, would there be any concern about the mantle above for combustible clearance?
 
Any reason you wouldn't want to install a wood stove as a hearth mount in front of the fireplace? There would be more surface area exposed to provide heat into the room.

The installation manual for the stove you choose will show the clearance requirements, including the mantle if its combustible. Before choosing a stove I'd recommend looking through the manual to make sure it will meet the requirements in the space you have.
 
Mantel clearances should be taken into account when the stove projects outside of the face of the fireplace. If the stove is entirely within the fireplace firebox cavity then it shouldn't be an issue. If it is within then a blower on the stove is important for better heat convection.
 
My stove sits part way into the fireplace opening.
 
The height of the opening of the fireplace is 30" The stove I am planning to install has a height of 28.5 inches. Would that be a concern?
 
The fact that it's that tight would be another reason (as already suggested) to get the stove out as far as possible in front of the fireplace, rather than back into it. More ease of air flow over the hot stove top is going to help move heat off the stove without needing a blower.

My stove sits about 2/3 out of the fireplace. I have a fan on the floor that I aim towards the back of the fireplace to help pull heat off the stove and the masonry.
 
The fact that it's that tight would be another reason (as already suggested) to get the stove out as far as possible in front of the fireplace, rather than back into it. More ease of air flow over the hot stove top is going to help move heat off the stove without needing a blower.

My stove sits about 2/3 out of the fireplace. I have a fan on the floor that I aim towards the back of the fireplace to help pull heat off the stove and the masonry.

I don't want to use a rear vent stove mainly. Too expensive
 
I don't want to use a rear vent stove mainly. Too expensive

What kind of budget are you looking at? The Jotul F45 I recently installed (rear vent, into existing fireplace) was around $2k for the stove itself and another $1700 for installation, liner (2 stories tall), chimney top, delivery, etc.
 
I am quite the thrifty spender. My last setup was a $800 Pleasant hearth 1800 stove with a hearth I built and a pro install through the ceiling for $1800. I eyed up the Englander NC13 1800 stove and was quoted $1200-1500 for the install.
 
Here are some pictures. The height of my fireplace is 30" in the front opening. Would it make sense to open up the brick in the front? I also have a picture of how far the Englander NC30 will stick out. (I am planning on building a new hearth to meet clearance to combustibles.

2hydr28.jpg 2w7j1jt.jpg zmjfy1.jpg
 
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Mantel clearances and working room to connect the stove are a concern. Have you considered a budget insert like the Englander 13NCi or the True North TN20 insert?
 
I have never been a fan of inserts, I have always been a standalone stove kind of guy. with the collar height of this stove coming in at 29.5, I am planning on cutting the feet which I know a few people on this site have done to the NC30

On the Englander NC30, there is no mention of mantle clearance, but I am planning on removing the mantle that is there anyway, so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
An insert often is the same as a freestander that has been designed with a flat bottom that will not interfere with the air controls and a convection top so that heat is not wasted from the top. Very often, the firebox is identical to the company's freestanding stove equivalent. To improve the efficiency of the 30NC in this circumstance look at the convection deck that Highbeam put on his 30NC.