Wood Stove Insert convection: loud buzzing

[SidecarFlip]

They all produce electrical noise. You need to effectively isolate it. Just because they appear to be 'soft' means little. Soft with grommets is a relative term.

 

[Amin1992]

They all produce electrical noise. You need to effectively isolate it. Just because they appear to be 'soft' means little. Soft with grommets is a relative term.

Got it. Maybe this motor just makes more noise than others do. Like I said, it's loud even when off the sheet metal, out of the stove, sitting in my hand plugged in.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Got it. Maybe this motor just makes more noise than others do. Like I said, it's loud even when off the sheet metal, out of the stove, sitting in my hand plugged in.

But it's giving you a massage......

 

[Mech e]

Thanks for the tip. I'm a bit confused though. Since I took off the motor completely and it was just as loud without being near sheet metal, I don't think the rubber grommets are the culprit - they feel soft anyway.

And yes definitely not good for the motor, I just did it for a few seconds to confirm it wasn't the fan blades causing this noise.

Maybe it is the bearings but this is a bit beyond me I think. The housing doesn't seem to have anything to allow me to open it up, no screws or bolts of such. Almost looks like it's stamped together or crimped shut.

At this rate, I'd think about buying a new motor, but again it's $300. And I'm afraid that maybe this is just the nature of this motor as I know my model stove is an economical one. Maybe the cheaper motor just makes noise. I'm just not a fan.

$300 sounds very high for a small AC motor. I would guess this was a replacement motor from the stove mfg. Most motors are standard sizes. The stove mfg. does not want to spend money developing a custom motor. If after trying fixes suggested by others the problem persists, check www.grainger.com to see if they have a replacement at a more reasonable price.

 

[SidecarFlip]

$300 sounds very high for a small AC motor. I would guess this was a replacement motor from the stove mfg. Most motors are standard sizes. The stove mfg. does not want to spend money developing a custom motor. If after trying fixes suggested by others the problem persists, check www.grainger.com to see if they have a replacement at a more reasonable price.

Grainger has never been reasonably priced on anything that I looked at in recent times. No stove or insert builder produces their own motors, they buy them from a motor manufacturer just like they buy steel sheet to build the stove in the first place.

Best way to determine the best price for any given non proprietary component (motors, fans and most electrical / electronic components are non proprietary is to use the Internet and search via the serial numbers or data that will be on each component. It's false economy to assume that Grainger will be reasonably priced.

Just like buying canned goods at the grocery store. Canned lima beans are canned lima beans whether you pay a dollar a can or 50 cents, the beans are the same. That also applies here.

The motor is most likely a Merkle-Kirkoff but could be a Fasco as well and both have websites and many retailers.

 

[Amin1992]

Thanks for the responses guys. Yes, it's a wild price. Heatilator part number is SRV7044-210. When I took the blower assembly out, the motor had a Japanese name on it, started with an H, but can't remember it exactly...

Unfortunately no luck on the website posted, couldnt find the part.

 

[begreen]

At this rate, I'd think about buying a new motor, but again it's $300.

That sounds like the price of replacing the entire blower assembly, not just the motor. Have you priced that out separately?

What is the make and model of the blower unit? What is the motor part number?

 

[begreen]

There is one that looks like a China substitute for about $100. No idea if it will fit exactly or behave better.
Amazon product ASIN B075NNC6TS
or this
Amazon product ASIN B006M0UOTE

 

[bholler]

Grainger has never been reasonably priced on anything that I looked at in recent times. No stove or insert builder produces their own motors, they buy them from a motor manufacturer just like they buy steel sheet to build the stove in the first place.

Best way to determine the best price for any given non proprietary component (motors, fans and most electrical / electronic components are non proprietary is to use the Internet and search via the serial numbers or data that will be on each component. It's false economy to assume that Grainger will be reasonably priced.

Just like buying canned goods at the grocery store. Canned lima beans are canned lima beans whether you pay a dollar a can or 50 cents, the beans are the same. That also applies here.

The motor is most likely a Merkle-Kirkoff but could be a Fasco as well and both have websites and many retailers.

Your anaolgy is not very accurate. There can be tons of variation in canned goods. If they were to buy the same brand and model motor from different places of course it wouldn't matter. But if they buy a cheap knockoff from somewhere it may matter allot.

 

[Mech e]

Thanks for the responses guys. Yes, it's a wild price. Heatilator part number is SRV7044-210. When I took the blower assembly out, the motor had a Japanese name on it, started with an H, but can't remember it exactly...

Unfortunately no luck on the website posted, couldnt find the part.

I would not try and replace it with the same motor. Search for a motor that has the same physical and electrical specifications. I just replaced the condenser motor on one of our AC condensing units with one from a different manufacturer that matched the OEM motor specifications. It was not an exact match physically, but it fit just fine. Yes, I bought it from Grainger.

 

[Amin1992]

I would not try and replace it with the same motor. Search for a motor that has the same physical and electrical specifications. I just replaced the condenser motor on one of our AC condensing units with one from a different manufacturer that matched the OEM motor specifications. It was not an exact match physically, but it fit just fine. Yes, I bought it from Grainger.

I'll try to find the specs on it but it's proving difficult. Nothing in the Heatilator manual on it and finding minimal info online about the motor... I'll keep digging, got a lot of time between now and when my flue is installed in Aug!

 

[Amin1992]

That sounds like the price of replacing the entire blower assembly, not just the motor. Have you priced that out separately?

What is the make and model of the blower unit? What is the motor part number?

I have the Heatilator part number which is SRV7044-210. Currently don't have the motor's information specifically, looked like the stickers were pulled from the unit when I took it off the stove... ill check again next time Im in there.

I am seeing it sold as a blower assembly, not the motor alone. Would love to buy just the motor if able!

 

[bholler]

I would not try and replace it with the same motor. Search for a motor that has the same physical and electrical specifications. I just replaced the condenser motor on one of our AC condensing units with one from a different manufacturer that matched the OEM motor specifications. It was not an exact match physically, but it fit just fine. Yes, I bought it from Grainger.

I buy fan motors from Grainger all the time

 

[dtrykow]

I’ve bought from fireplaceblowersonline.com. Dave T.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I buy fan motors from Grainger all the time

Obviously, you aren't retired and on a fixed income like I am. I find Grainger to be high priced on most everything.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Your anaolgy is not very accurate. There can be tons of variation in canned goods. If they were to buy the same brand and model motor from different places of course it wouldn't matter. But if they buy a cheap knockoff from somewhere it may matter allot.

I always look at how they are built, ie: sleeve bearings versus ball bearings for example. Sleeve bearings are cheaper to use but also wear quickly in the harsh enviroment that stove blowers live in. Keep in mind that Grainger don't manufacture squat, they are only retail / wholesale distributors of items manufactured elsewhere, often times offshore. Windings and laminations are pretty much generic as are armatures.

While I can machine a new set of 660 CA bronze oil impregnated sleeve bearings easily, I prefer sealed ball bearings for the longevity and those too are replaceable. In fact, most components in any appliance are replaceable except the basic structure and castings.

 

[bholler]

Obviously, you aren't retired and on a fixed income like I am. I find Grainger to be high priced on most everything.

For me it is time. I can just call Grainger with the numbers and have the motor in a day usually. That means my customer is not down very long at all. And I don't spend time finding something which means I can charge less. And yes I am fully aware Grainger is just a retailer. But they are a retailer I trust that has fast turnaround. And if all else fails they have a store about an hour from me. To me the time savings is well worth paying the extra 10% or so.

 

[SidecarFlip]

For me it is time. I can just call Grainger with the numbers and have the motor in a day usually. That means my customer is not down very long at all. And I don't spend time finding something which means I can charge less. And yes I am fully aware Grainger is just a retailer. But they are a retailer I trust that has fast turnaround. And if all else fails they have a store about an hour from me. To me the time savings is well worth paying the extra 10% or so.

Obviously you are also in the repair business. I'm not so I can wait a day or a week for a part and shop around because I'm paying for it. In your case you charge your customer for the part and the labor. Don't apply in my case as an end user. In your case, cost is inconsequential because you pass that along. Not so with me or anyone else who does their own repairs.

Why I don't get how Garinger is germane to the thread because there are other, less expensive alternatives so long as the end user can wait a bit of time for delivery. IOW, you ain't the end user.

 

[bholler]

Obviously you are also in the repair business. I'm not so I can wait a day or a week for a part and shop around because I'm paying for it. In your case you charge your customer for the part and the labor. Don't apply in my case as an end user. In your case, cost is inconsequential because you pass that along. Not so with me or anyone else who does their own repairs.

Why I don't get how Garinger is germane to the thread because there are other, less expensive alternatives so long as the end user can wait a bit of time for delivery. IOW, you ain't the end user.

You are missing the fact that time is money. Figuratively in cases where I am buying for myself and literally when I am buying for a customer. I can charge them less if I know I can quickly and easily get a part. Even if the part costs a little more the labor savings covers that easily.

The reason Grainger has become an issue in the thread is because you made it one.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Certainly did not. All I stated was, compared to other retail sources (online and otherwise), WW Grainger is typically higher priced. Nothing more. Sometimes, most times in fact, it pays to use due diligence when shopping for a particular item, especially when time is not of the essence. Of course with Amazon Prime and next day delivery (if applicable) it's almost as good as....

I understand your scenario perfectly. But that scenario isn't indicative of most end users. You appear to have an issue with me stating the above.

I'll leave it lay as it is and let the end user decide how they want to spend their money.

 

[begreen]

I have the Heatilator part number which is SRV7044-210. Currently don't have the motor's information specifically, looked like the stickers were pulled from the unit when I took it off the stove... ill check again next time Im in there.

I am seeing it sold as a blower assembly, not the motor alone. Would love to buy just the motor if able!

options provided in post #33. If you just want to replace the motor, get the specs off the current one, look for the motor mfg. and part # or take it to an electric motor shop.

 

[Amin1992]

options provided in post #33. If you just want to replace the motor, get the specs off the current one, look for the motor mfg. and part # or take it to an electric motor shop.

Unfortunately those linked fans don't fit my model. I'll look into another option