Wood stove insert question

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skibumm100

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
I currently have a Preway manufactured fireplace in my open floorplan contemporary style house. Total 2200 SF. Cathedral ceiling in the main room, bedrooms upstairs off hte main space. It's a Model B136D, Type AP, UL N587299. I would like to install a wood burning insert for comfort/back-up/secondary heat. Do I need to leave all of the components (particularly the free standing "walls") as is and find an insert that will fit in that envelope of space? Can I remove those "walls" and just use the ZC box? I have looked at the support for the insert. The firebox is supported by 2 X 12's on 16" centers that are extensions of the first floor joists. Pretty sturdy. The construction of the flue is a wood exterior chase with the 10" Preway pipe and cap. I spoke with a salesman at the stove shop and he said the new flue would go inside the existing Preway pipe and then get a block-off plate top and bottom and the correct 6" cap. I would like to get as large an insert that fits in the allowable space. It will have a fan. I am looking at Lopi, Regency and a couple of others. TIA! I am located in southern NH.

Gregg
 
I'll try to answer, but I'm no expert.
I think a couple of things can come out, like the damper and doors, but other than that it has to be intact.
Most stove manufacturers seem to have their installation manuals on line with required dimensions, so you'd measure your space and compare.
 
Velvetfoot,

Thanks for the quick reply. I figured the damper would need to come out. My fireplace has a heatilator and fan. I guess all that would need to stay too because it's built into the fireplace. I get a wicked cold draft from this thing when it's not burning. I even get frost on my hearth when the wind blows and it's really cold. I sure would be nice to take out some of the extra stuff to make room. I have the brochures that show the required clearances. Just need to get the tape measure out.

Gregg
 
I had a cold hearth too. It was because of the outside air for the fireplace. I blocked that off because the installers did not use that option and it was not required.
 
From what I have read here in the past with zc fireplaces you need to keep eveything in tact and find an insert that is certified for zc fireplaces. I know the Lopi answer and I think Quadrafire has one also.
 
VF,

I noticed when I pulled off the bottom of the external flue chase that there is an outside air duct running to the fireplace....and a big gaping hole where the duct runs throught the floor. I suspect that was my culprit.

Todd,

I am looking through the literature for the stoves that are ZC rated. Does the brand of ZC fireplace need to be specified by name by the stove manufacturer or is "ZC rated" good enough?
 
skibum said:
VF,

I noticed when I pulled off the bottom of the external flue chase that there is an outside air duct running to the fireplace....and a big gaping hole where the duct runs throught the floor. I suspect that was my culprit.

Todd,

I am looking through the literature for the stoves that are ZC rated. Does the brand of ZC fireplace need to be specified by name by the stove manufacturer or is "ZC rated" good enough?

Best thing to do is find a stove you like and download the manual, see if it is ZC rated and fits your dimensions.
 
Country stoves has 2 models that are rated for zero clearence fireplaces, the c160 and the c210, I have the 160 in my zero clearence box. Looks like country has merged with Lennox Hearth Products, I went to County's web page and got re-directed to this one
(broken link removed)

Here are a couple pics of my insert
 

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I'll measure it up tonight and see what will fit. We have a Lennox dealer a few miles down the road. It looks like the two smaller Country stoves are both OK with ZC fireplaces.
 
That's the thing. Chances are you'll be somewhat limited to what the local dealers carry.
 
Installing an insert into a ZC Box....

-You must leave everything in the ZC box in tact, refractories, etc... There a few things you can remove, I think the smoke baffle and the damper, maybe one other part. Everything else must stay.

-You must insulated the liner since it is unknown if that pipe would pass current 2100 degree testing. Your liner must meet 2100 degree rating

-You MUST leave the cooling air for the old ZC chimney in tact. This can be acomplished two ways. Use the old ZC cap and suspend the liner inside it. Or get a Homesaver FBLA from Copperfield.

-The insert must be approved for ZC installtion

I think thats about it.
 
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