I have a Vogelzang Mountaineer wood stove this is my 3rd winter heating with it. We had installed into an existing chimney that once was used for a wood stove. The stove seem to be okay the first yr. not great but okay. It is suppose to be enough for a 2000 sq. ft. house our house is only 800sq. ft and we are probably only heating 500 sq. ft. because we have all the doors closed to part of the house. The highest temp the house has been was 71 but normally it will only get to 69 and that is with 2 ceramic space heaters going if I take one of those out it goes down to 67. I have heard that you either get a good vogelzang or you get on that is worthless. I have tried to keep the damper clsed so the stove could retain the heat, but I have no way of adjusting the air flow. I live in S.W. Mo and it gets down to the single digits every once in a while but most of the time it is in the 30's and teen's. I think that it should be doing a better job than it is. I know my house is 85 yrs old and has a few drafts in it the insulation is not that bad either, I have been in alot worse. What should I do just go out and by another woodstove. What brands would be good ? What should I look for?
Wood Stove not heating very well
- Thread starter fitwind
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
You need to resolve other variables first. Is the stove getting hot enough? If not, you may well spend all that time, money, and energy to just replicate the same situation with a better machine. What's your wood situation? How have you confirmed it is dry and seasoned? What is your chimney situation? What do you do to move your heated air around? Even a junk stove should be able to do better than you are experiencing in that small space.
I wouldn't think about a new stove til you get some answers to those other questions...
I wouldn't think about a new stove til you get some answers to those other questions...
Edthedawg said:
I can put my hand on top of the stove for about 10 seconds. It doesn't seem to get that hot. Yes I have confirmed that is dry and seasoned I did not get it off of someone it was done by us. I just know that it is a plain brick chimney.Is there something that I should do to the chimney? I have a fan on the back of the stove.
Your stove spec is over 100,000 btu. Well at least the "Heavy-gauge 3/16in. plate steel" will heat up fast!
I would spend a few dollars to better insulate and seal for reduced heat loss, your home regardless of your stove. As previously advised check your fuel and other important operational areas.
I has been a very cold winter.
I would spend a few dollars to better insulate and seal for reduced heat loss, your home regardless of your stove. As previously advised check your fuel and other important operational areas.
I has been a very cold winter.
fitwind I'm not familiar with that stove so I googled it. Anyway I'm pretty sure that stove isn't EPA compliant. Reading through your report it seems to me that you are starving your fire by closing down the flue damper.
Airtight stoves need a damper to control the fire...but once a fire going you never close it more than 45*. Run your stove like that and it should get hot enough to blow you out of that 800sf bungalow. And yes I'm talking uncomfortable hot.
Open the damper before opening the door to tend the fire, tend fire, close the door, close damper to 45%. The more you close the damper past 45* the more creosote you build up...so you might want to mirror the chimney. Try running it that way and get back to us.
Airtight stoves need a damper to control the fire...but once a fire going you never close it more than 45*. Run your stove like that and it should get hot enough to blow you out of that 800sf bungalow. And yes I'm talking uncomfortable hot.
Open the damper before opening the door to tend the fire, tend fire, close the door, close damper to 45%. The more you close the damper past 45* the more creosote you build up...so you might want to mirror the chimney. Try running it that way and get back to us.
My sister in law was complaining that she wasnt able to heat her 1000 sq ft open ranch with her new woodstove.
She was putting in HUGE chunks and letting them smolder by closing off the air almost completly and closing the damper almost all the way because thats what my father in law told her to do. She barely uses it anymore because "it doesn't work worth a crap". I told her that shes not getting any heat because shes not burning hot enoough, but my father in law has been burning for 30 years so he apperantly is right...
*shakes head*
She was putting in HUGE chunks and letting them smolder by closing off the air almost completly and closing the damper almost all the way because thats what my father in law told her to do. She barely uses it anymore because "it doesn't work worth a crap". I told her that shes not getting any heat because shes not burning hot enoough, but my father in law has been burning for 30 years so he apperantly is right...
*shakes head*
Fitwind - get yourself a cheap Rutland stovetop thermometer (or preferably two) and start monitoring your temps. If you can put your hand on the stove for 10 seconds, you are WAY too cold. I can't touch the corner of my stove for more than a second. But you have to figure out if you are not making any heat (poor wood, damping too early, too little air, wood too large/wet) or if you are sending it up the flue instead (damper too far open). I kinda doubt it's the latter, based on your description.
Hot fires = better kindling, smaller splits, more air and keep it open longer. Sounds like you just aren't letting it run free. Savageactor7 and CowboyAndy seem to be right on the mark here.
Inspecting your chimney, esp if you haven't had it done could be a key input too. It also sounds like your chimney is unlined - if you have a poorly drafting chimney (and it sounds like you may) then line it - absolutely. If you chuck this stove and get a new one, you're still going to want a liner - so spend the money on that critical piece of equipment - don't dismiss the stove yet (despite its brand name...)
Hot fires = better kindling, smaller splits, more air and keep it open longer. Sounds like you just aren't letting it run free. Savageactor7 and CowboyAndy seem to be right on the mark here.
Inspecting your chimney, esp if you haven't had it done could be a key input too. It also sounds like your chimney is unlined - if you have a poorly drafting chimney (and it sounds like you may) then line it - absolutely. If you chuck this stove and get a new one, you're still going to want a liner - so spend the money on that critical piece of equipment - don't dismiss the stove yet (despite its brand name...)
I DARE you to lay your hand on top of my stove for 10 seconds. Double dog dare ya! Your stove temp is WAY too low if you can lay your hand on it AT ALL.
Poor wood.
Poor draft.
Poor operation.
Its gonna be one or more of the above that is causing your problem.
Poor wood.
Poor draft.
Poor operation.
Its gonna be one or more of the above that is causing your problem.
Jags said:
I'd say if you can even hold your hand a foot or so near the stove, its not hot enough.
- Status
Similar threads
