Wood Stove Recommendations

[John357]

Hi Folks,

I am looking for a new wood stove to replace the Jotul F602 in the attached photo. The surrounding wall and floor are all full size bricks. I would like the largest stove possible to fit in this space (safely) but I am uncertain as to the distances required when the surfaces are non-combustible. I have seen Drolet recommended on here but how can I be sure one of their medium size stoves will operate safely in this space? When I reached out to Drolet with several photos including measurements of the hearth, they simply responded suggesting the "small" stoves such as Nano Deco & Fox but then added "if you think you have enough space for a medium stove - I think you would have enough space for a medium stove which is a bit bigger than what you already have."

In the photos provided below I layed out 3 measuring tapes in the space measured at a width of 24 inches and a depth of 23 inches to get a concept of size/space. I see some of the medium size Drolets measure at 23 7/8 inches wide by 23 inches deep. From the back corner of the brick wall to the front of the hearth is 48 inches.

Thanks in advance for your time/help.

 

[begreen]

That's a cool trivet grill for the Jotul. I haven't see that one before.

The hearth is a bit small, even for the Jotul. If the 602 is an early model prior to UL testing ( no UL label on the back) then the current hearth is not adequate. The unlisted version needs 36" corner clearance. This is reduced 50% by the full brick to 18", but it looks like the current corner distance is more like 10". The Drolet Deco Nano needs only 7" but it's a deeper stove body. It may take extending the hearth at floor level to make this work. This stove only requires ember protection so a sheet of metal would suffice.

 

[John357]

That's a cool trivet grill for the Jotul. I haven't see that one before.

The hearth is a bit small, even for the Jotul. If the 602 is an early model prior to UL testing ( no UL label on the back) then the current hearth is not adequate. The unlisted version needs 36" corner clearance. This is reduced 50% by the full brick to 18", but it looks like the current corner distance is more like 10". The Drolet Deco Nano needs only 7" but it's a deeper stove body. It may take extending the hearth at floor level to make this work. This stove only requires ember protection so a sheet of metal would suffice.

Begreen: Thank you for the help on this. I am currently analyzing the specs on the EPA site that details the Make, Model, Firebox Volume, Heat Output, etc... According to the data, the Jotul F602 puts out a max BTU of 49,576 and the Drolet small stoves ( Escape 1200, Spark 2, Deco Nano, etc.) are showing a max BTU output of 26,500. Seems significantly less than the Jotul. If I am looking to replace the F602 with a stove that can put out more heat, it is looking like there may be better options. What do you think/recommend? As you know, I am limited by the hearth size.

 

[begreen]

Be careful how these specs are read. The EPA testing is done with a fixed load of Doug fir, stacked Lincoln log style. It does not represent peak output nor normal operation with hardwood. The Drolet Nano is rated at 45,000 BTU max high output with dry cordwood. It's firebox is about 25% larger.

As noted, the hearth will likely need to be expanded.

How much more heat is needed? How large of an area is the stove heating? Is the goal more heat or a longer burn at a continuous output?

 

[John357]

The house is approx 1600 sq ft but I doubt I will be able to fit a stove big enough on that hearth to heat this adequately. That's why I am just trying to look at the specs of the Jotul and be sure I go with a stove that can at least put out more BTU's than the Jotul, maybe burn slightly longer, while also being relatively compact. I was also leaning more towards non-cat stoves. Thank you again for your time.

 

[John357]

I must apologize in advance if i am missing something here but on the EPA site data, some of the columns are "heat output upper BTUs" "heat output lower BTUs" and "heat output range BTUs". If you get a chance, please see the screenshot of the data below. Do you think it's wrong or am I misinterpreting it? I may be entirely incorrect here but if the stoves were tested using the same type/amount of wood, for the same amount of time, in the same testing environment - wouldn't the resulting winner of te btu contest be the same regardless of the type of wood they both burned?

 

[begreen]

Just a guess, different lab testing methods? This could happen when the Jotul results are with cord wood and the Drolet with crib wood (as described earlier). Drolet list the higher cordwood output in the stove's manual. I'd have to read the lab reports for both stoves to know the testing method used. The EPA tests are about emissions not heat output, so there can be a wide variation in testing methods. The heat output is in BTUs / hour and with the larger almost 2X fuel load, the Drolet ran longer. Also, the high output reading was after the fuel load was 90% consumed, and with the blower on high. The Jotul has no blower so none run.
FWIW, you are not alone in being confused. The EPA is under fire for not having consistent testing requirements explicitly required. That has led to confusing variations in testing and in the reporting from lab to lab.

 

[Todd]

Looks like your 602 burn plate is upside down? I never thought of flipping mine over like that, makes a nice trivit.

If it were me I’d look into a hearth extension and look into a 1.5-2.0 cu ft fire box sized stove.

 

[begreen]

Looks like your 602 burn plate is upside down? I never thought of flipping mine over like that, makes a nice trivit.

Clever those Norwegians are.

If it were me I’d look into a hearth extension and look into a 1.5-2.0 cu ft fire box sized stove.

I agree though the Drolet Deco Nano is 1.5 cu ft, my preference would be for a 2 cu ft stove that loads N/S like the Jotul. The hearth can be extended at floor level with sheetmetal (painted steel, copper, stainless, etc.)

 

[John357]

Clever those Norwegians are.

I agree though the Drolet Deco Nano is 1.5 cu ft, my preference would be for a 2 cu ft stove that loads N/S like the Jotul. The hearth can be extended at floor level with sheetmetal (painted steel, copper, stainless, etc.)

Thanks guys. Any recommendations for a 2 cu ft NS loader? That rules out Deco Nano 😑. Maybe a TN 20?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Might as well look at the Super 27 and Alderlea T5 also.

 

[begreen]

The TN20 would work with the PE Super an upgrade.

 

[John357]

Good morning my friends. I laid out with masking tape the dimensions of the TN20 on the hearth. Leaving only about 2 inches in the front and about 4 inches in the back from the brick wall on both sides. begreen, as you mentioned I know I will need floor protection. What are your thoughts now that the dimensions of the TN20 are mapped out in the space? Think it will be okay? The Drolet Spark 2 is basically the same depth as the TN20 but about 3 inches narrower.

I am very grateful for all of your help on this forum.

 

[bholler]

You will absolutely need more floor protection you need 16 infront of the stove. Also what is behind that brick wall? What are the rear clearance requirements

 

[John357]

You will absolutely need more floor protection you need 16 infront of the stove. Also what is behind that brick wall? What are the rear clearance requirements

Thanks Bholler. Behind the brick wall there is approx 1inch air gap. Added 2 more photos if that helps asess.

 

[bholler]

Thanks Bholler. Behind the brick wall there is approx 1inch air gap. Added 2 more photos if that helps asess.

View attachment 317408 View attachment 317409

Ok so check with each stove manual to see if reduction of clearances are allowed and what the rear clearances are

 

[John357]

The clearance requirements are -

 

[bholler]

The clearance requirements are - View attachment 317411

That doesn't help without the diagram showing what the letters stand for

 

[John357]

The clearance requirements are - View attachment 317412

Honestly it is a little confusing to me. Begreen addressed an adjustment to clearances in the beginning of this thread. Based on this chart though, is it saying the clearance to the brick wall needs to be 8in from the back corners of the stove to the brick wall and 19in from the front of the flu pipe to the brick wall? Side note, "minimum clearance to combustibles" is a brick wall still subject to this?

 

[John357]

That doesn't help without the diagram showing what the letters stand for

Sorry about that. I added/edited the photo

 

[begreen]

With a double-wall connector, the TN20 needs 3" corner clearance - to the nearest combustible, which is the wall behind the brick. It can go right up against the brick and be safe. The hearth extension in front is measured from the stove door, not the front of the ashlip. The depth of the stove body is 23 7/8" with the additional depth being the ashlip.

 

[John357]

Man, you guys are awesome!🤝👍👍.

 

[begreen]

This is theoretical. I would keep it at least an inch off the brick in an actual installation.

 

[John357]

This is theoretical. I would keep it at least an inch off the brick in an actual installation.

You got it, brother. I'll post some pictures when I'm finished.

 

[John357]

Thank you all for your help. Here's the TN20