Woodburning Insert Install Guidance

[NoGoodWithUsernames]

Greetings, I am looking for some guidance and references to good information to aid in the installation of a Sierra 2000T wood burning stove. From my reading so far it sounds like I should use a chimney flue pipe inside of my existing chimney for several good reasons. What I have not seen discussed as much is how to deal with the existing smoke shelf and how to plumb around that. I did get several sections of single wall flue pipe with the stove but I am not sure if they will be what I need to use or not.

The stove has the flue connection on the top not the back, and I will be re-doing the fascia masonry (It had an excessively large and very obviously fake stone fascia that we removed already) so I have some freedom to adjust where the stove will sit etc, however I don't want to mess with the structural part of the chimney if it can be avoided.

Would a couple 45s work to offset the pipe and still allow cleaning?
Do I need to have the chimney swept before installing a pipe?
What is the preferred chimney cap for this sort of application?

If there is a helpful thread already that I have missed I apologize, please supply a link and I'll post there instead.
Thanks!
Derek

 

[stoveliker]

While others have more knowledge of inserts, I can give a few initial pointers.

The damper needs to be cut or taken out most often for a liner to be installed.

You don't need (class A) chimney inside your existing chimney. Assuming it's terracotta in brick, you most likely need it lined with an *insulated* liner- both for safety and for code compliance (unless you have 1" space between the outermost brick and any combustible for outside chimneys, and 2" for inside chimneys). I think it needs a 6" liner?

Single wall (black) stove pipe is not suitable to be in a chimney.

There are angled connectors for stoves, I'm not sure 45s exist. Maybe 30 deg? But yes, that can be done.

Yes, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected before installing a liner (not pipe). You don't want any creosote outside the liner to ignite.

A cap that keeps the rain out. You may want or need (local law?) a screen to avoid sparks from coming out (I see CA).

I think this insert is an older one (from googling); I'm not even sure you are allowed to install this in CA? It's possible you need a more modern (cleaner, more efficient burning) insert. If it's an old one, ask if you can install it before doing so.

The system would also benefit of an insulated block off plate to avoid cold air from sinking down from the chimney outside the liner, and warm air to go up outside the liner.

 

[bholler]

Greetings, I am looking for some guidance and references to good information to aid in the installation of a Sierra 2000T wood burning stove. From my reading so far it sounds like I should use a chimney flue pipe inside of my existing chimney for several good reasons. What I have not seen discussed as much is how to deal with the existing smoke shelf and how to plumb around that. I did get several sections of single wall flue pipe with the stove but I am not sure if they will be what I need to use or not.

The stove has the flue connection on the top not the back, and I will be re-doing the fascia masonry (It had an excessively large and very obviously fake stone fascia that we removed already) so I have some freedom to adjust where the stove will sit etc, however I don't want to mess with the structural part of the chimney if it can be avoided.

Would a couple 45s work to offset the pipe and still allow cleaning?
Do I need to have the chimney swept before installing a pipe?
What is the preferred chimney cap for this sort of application?

If there is a helpful thread already that I have missed I apologize, please supply a link and I'll post there instead.
Thanks!
Derek

You need a properly sized and insulated stainless liner system

 

[NoGoodWithUsernames]

Thank you for the responses! After looking into an insulated chimney liner, the price may delay install a little bit and we may just use the open hearth for this season. There is a lot of work needed elsewhere in the house still and the stove is somewhat low on the priority list. I will definitely have a certified sweep out prior to use as a hearth or installation of the stove. I would assume that whoever had the natural gas fireplace installed had the chimney swept prior but I would rather not take that risk given the other shortcuts and lack of care we've found in other areas of the house.

When sizing the liner, is it safe to use the outlet on the stove as the size for a liner? I know that fluid dynamics, especially when heat is added, can do very odd things. The stove pipe that came with it had a reducer on it as the stove pipe was larger than the outlet of the stove. That may have just been to use an off the shelf stove pipe size, I have no history on it so that could be anyone's guess.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, an inspection is the best to do before using it (even if it was swept and cleaned). Integrity matters with hot gases..

Yes, the outlet of the stove determines the best crossectional size of the liner. If the stove has a 6" outlet, get a 6" liner.
There are cases where one wishes to change this (e.g. with exceptionally tall (30+ ft) flues a reduction might help tame excessive draft), but in general just go by the outlet opening size.