WoodGun pics???

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68dodgeramman

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 24, 2008
72
Northeastern Lower Michigan
Just wondering if anyone has pictures of their WoodGun boiler they could post. I did a search and couldn't find any. Thanks.
 
Here you go!!! nevermind the rest of the place. the basement walls need painting this winter and some other upgrades to the system will take place as well. But its run one season with very few problems. There of course was a learning curve as with everything. Remember its wood.
 

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BTW it is a one pipe steam system, so take that into consideration! cheers
 
JSJAC said:
Dry steam hope thats not your fire.
As one of my friends say "Its all good" But no its not.
 
Thanks for the pics DrySteam. How do you like it?
 
For a wood fueled system its heaven! Last year I had the same fire in it for several months, even with servicing some small things. Yeah it was expensive, but two and a half years more and it will be paid for. A three year payback is worth the investment. The service guys at the factory are top notch whenever i had a question.
 
Well I just ordered ours! I hope we like it. Too late now, lol. We ordered the E-100 WoodGun with the ASME stamp. I also ordered it with the 4 hr. cycle timer and low temp shutdown. He says it should ship around the week of the 16th. Now it's time to get everything else lined up. Thanks for the pics and the help Dry steam.
 
Lar-Bud said:
Well I just ordered ours! I hope we like it. Too late now, lol. We ordered the E-100 WoodGun with the ASME stamp. I also ordered it with the 4 hr. cycle timer and low temp shutdown. He says it should ship around the week of the 16th. Now it's time to get everything else lined up. Thanks for the pics and the help Dry steam.

Sweet!
 
I know! Ain't it?
 
Congrats! I still think the Wood Gun is a very robust well crafted boiler.
 
A little late with my pics...but better late than never! Congrats on your purchase. This is also the E100 but with the oil burner too...not ASME though. It's stainless(even the stack and chimney liner is SS). The timer is convenient for burning wood in low demand times. Hope the pics come out OK. I could email larger ones if you like.
 

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Thanks for the pics Bob. Is that the oil burner on the right side?
 
Yes. The second pic is the control box for selection between wood only, auto(wood/oil) or oil only. Green light is indicator it's ok to open the loading door...this will light up after a few minutes of the fan running to clear out gasses etc. from the loading chamber. Amber light indicates it's in oil mode. Third pic (sorry for the blur but I'm not as steady as I used to be) are the other 2 aquastats, fresh air intake, rear door to lower chamber and the air inlet box which controls draft. Final pic is the swirl chamber. The drawer at the bottom contains the very fine ash residue. You'll notice the red high temp caulk in this pic, I would suggest you seal all joints from the swirl chamber to the chimney to eliminate any smoke escape.

Good luck with your boiler! Last night was our first "cold" night and I was pleased to see a nice bed of coals this morning waiting for their breakfast feeding and water temp still near 180. I am surprised on the heat emitted from the boiler...esp from the front. Seems there could be better insulation there? Basement is very warm although not as warm as before I insulated the hot water pipes.
 
muncybob said:
Yes. The second pic is the control box for selection between wood only, auto(wood/oil) or oil only. Green light is indicator it's ok to open the loading door...this will light up after a few minutes of the fan running to clear out gasses etc. from the loading chamber. Amber light indicates it's in oil mode. Third pic (sorry for the blur but I'm not as steady as I used to be) are the other 2 aquastats, fresh air intake, rear door to lower chamber and the air inlet box which controls draft. Final pic is the swirl chamber. The drawer at the bottom contains the very fine ash residue. You'll notice the red high temp caulk in this pic, I would suggest you seal all joints from the swirl chamber to the chimney to eliminate any smoke escape.

Good luck with your boiler! Last night was our first "cold" night and I was pleased to see a nice bed of coals this morning waiting for their breakfast feeding and water temp still near 180. I am surprised on the heat emitted from the boiler...esp from the front. Seems there could be better insulation there? Basement is very warm although not as warm as before I insulated the hot water pipes.

You might just grow to like that warmth. For me its reassuring to open the cellar door and get the blast of warmth. Works nice for the floors too. Not to hijack but hows the oil going? Do you use a lot, does it burn longer than the wood or the same? Curious?
 
The oil heats the water in a different manner than the wood so the wood loading chamber gets warm but not hot and thus there is less heat loss from the unit itself versus burning wood. Due to this the thermostat will call for heat more often than when using wood.
Even after stepping up to the .85gph nozzle and increasing pump pressure to 200 psi I still am getting a small amount of condensation. I want to talk with the oil guy again but it appears I may have to resort to putting a switch on the fan motor to reduce the draft when burning oil. It will still serve the purpose for heat during the low demand times of the year but it will defeat the auto switch over from wood to oil. Not a big issue I guess but still I would have liked to have it run as intended.
 
I got a question for ya, actually a couple, a little off the subject but here goes. Can I use Pex pipe instead of copper to go from the boiler in the attached garage to the heat exchanger and side arm in the basement? And if so, does it need to be installed in a relatively straight line like copper does? I mean when I get in to the basement can I just go diagonally to the heat exchanger in the furnace? Also in the garage I plan a hydronic heat unit. The garage is 840 sq. ft. what size heater do I need? Would 60,000 Btu be enough? The garage is attached and well insulated. Thanks again.
 
I used to sell the wood guns back in the day up in Warrensburg NY< side by side with Dave Oneil, one of the inventors. Back then they had exploding gases if you opened the door in the wrong sequence and black gold (not the oil kind) oozing out of the cyclone seperator. I was wondering if 20 years later the day to day use of the boiler has improved.
 
Lar-Bud said:
I got a question for ya, actually a couple, a little off the subject but here goes. Can I use Pex pipe instead of copper to go from the boiler in the attached garage to the heat exchanger and side arm in the basement? And if so, does it need to be installed in a relatively straight line like copper does? I mean when I get in to the basement can I just go diagonally to the heat exchanger in the furnace? Also in the garage I plan a hydronic heat unit. The garage is 840 sq. ft. what size heater do I need? Would 60,000 Btu be enough? The garage is attached and well insulated. Thanks again.

Sorry no help here as I am steam only.
 
Franks said:
I used to sell the wood guns back in the day up in Warrensburg NY< side by side with Dave Oneil, one of the inventors. Back then they had exploding gases if you opened the door in the wrong sequence and black gold (not the oil kind) oozing out of the cyclone seperator. I was wondering if 20 years later the day to day use of the boiler has improved.

Can only speak from my limited experience(2+ months). I always set the purge timer for at least 3 minutes and won't open the loading door for 2 min. or so...no problem with gas, ooz or smoke(most of the time). The unit now comes with a grren light and a very bright yellow sticker that says not to open the door until the green light is lit. This will normally take a minute or so once the fan starts.
 
They are basically the same boiler that they were 20 years ago. The main change has been ownership in February of this year. The ones that I have looked at ooze out the air valve and around the door gaskets.
 
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