Woodland - Fisher Baby Bear Clone

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Tsuga

New Member
Jul 2, 2026
2
Northern Michigan
[Hearth.com] Woodland - Fisher Baby Bear Clone
[Hearth.com] Woodland - Fisher Baby Bear Clone[Hearth.com] Woodland - Fisher Baby Bear Clone

I have this old stove I used in my cabin with a 4 inch flue and it required frequent cleaning (weekly) because of creosote buildup. I used single wall that had to rise 10 feet to get to the Class A roof exit and it just lost too much heat. Looking at the exit from the fire box, there is the 4 inch inner collar surrounded by a 6 inch collar and my question is this; would it be prudent to use a 6 inch flue over the 4 inch exit and run 6 inch all the way to prevent creosote buildup?

I will be using this in a different addition that will only have about 4-5 foot of vertical rise to the Class A exit and was thinking it may be ok to use the 4 inch flue I currently have in this configuration, but for the one winter I did use it, I felt pretty sketchy about leaving the cabin unless the fire was dying out and I would rather feel safe if I have to redo it with 6 inch, or I will just suck it up and run all Class A 4 inch. Anyway what are peoples opinions?

I built the stove initially to use in a sauna, but have ended up living in this cabin as I am trying to build a home on my property and trying to save money as I have a10 acres of woods. I didn't use it last winter and installed a propane wall furnace which just isn't the same wonderful and free heat of a wood stove. Afraid to imagine what propane is going to run this winter. I was paying $3.60/Gallon, then $4 when the Iran debacle started.
 
The creosote buildup could be happening due to the way the stove is being run. It's mostly about flue gas temperature. If the fire is choked down the point of smoldering, the flue will get build up. If the wood is not well seasoned, that also will cool down the flue gases and coat the flue with creosote inside. Poorly seasoned wood builds up creosote quickly. Burn dry wood and keep the flue gases above 250ºF to prevent build up.

If using a magnetic, surface mounted flue thermometer, then note that the temp reading will be about half the actual flue gas temperature. So a 200º surface reading is ~400º flue gas temp.

Switching the stove pipe to double-walled 6" would help keep the flue gases hotter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tsuga
The creosote buildup could be happening due to the way the stove is being run. It's mostly about flue gas temperature. If the fire is choked down the point of smoldering, the flue will get build up. If the wood is not well seasoned, that also will cool down the flue gases and coat the flue with creosote inside. Poorly seasoned wood builds up creosote quickly. Burn dry wood and keep the flue gases above 250ºF to prevent build up.

If using a magnetic, surface mounted flue thermometer, then note that the temp reading will be about half the actual flue gas temperature. So a 200º surface reading is ~400º flue gas temp.

Switching the stove pipe to double-walled 6" would help keep the flue gases hotter.
Wood was 2 year seasoned split maple. I was surprised at how quickly the creosote built up. I could never keep the flue hot enough because of the length of the single wall pipe. I cannot find any regular double wall 4 inch which would probably solve the issue. Not a lot of options out there for 4 inch pipe.
 
A probe thermometer is needed if switching to double-walled 6". That will provide accurate flue gas temp readings. Keep the temp of the flue gases above 300º during the active fire stage.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Tsuga