This morning I loaded up my Keystone after an all-night burn and let it catch and closed the door. Damper open and Air all the way open to let it warm back up. I have an IR thermometer that I use and usually will close the damper when the single wall pipe behind the flue collar gets up to 350 or so. Well today I didn't think the wood would catch that fast, checked with the IR gun after making some coffee and the pipe was at around 720! Quickly closed the damper and lowered the air to 2 like I normally would (and then down to 1, and .75, etc). There definitely was a "cured paint" smell in the room for a little bit after, but everything else seemed ok. Anything to worry about? Or anything I should check?
Woodstock Keystone "Overfire"?
- Thread starter Mryank9
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This happens to all of us at some time or another. The pipe probably took most of the heat. Watch operation for the next few reloads. If all seems normal and bypass works ok, the stove is probably ok. From now on carry a timer with your to remind yourself to check the stove in 5 minutes or so.
Ok great thanks. That's what I was thinking but it definitely was a little bit of panic mode when I saw it was that hot!
I'm assuming your setup is similar to mine, rear-vented into a stainless tee, with a surface meter behind the flue collar about 6". I will routinely run that meter up over 500. I don't like to see 750 there, though. I'm always looking in the box to see how vigorously the flame is hitting the bypass area; I don't want huge flame hitting the bypass frame and sucking up the pipe. If I shoot the IR around different areas of the tee, the top of it is definitely the hottest spot. As long as you aren't glowing the pipe, I think you're OK. The paint smell means your stove hit a new high temp in that area, but if you have been cutting the air at 350 previously, that's to be expected. Next time the stove is fairly cool, you can pull the top vent cover and look at the bypass frame area for any warping, but I really think you're OK. I have faintly glowed the tee a time or two. 
You can't get too complacent when ramping up to temp, because every fire is different. this AM I put a Silver Maple split in the back and a Hickory split in front and one on top. Well, the Hickory caught slower but when I looked in the box I could see the Maple had taken off and was flaming pretty big in the back. I generally try to get the load catching in the front so direct flame isn't going right to the bypass area, and will cut the air to keep the flames forward in the box.
You can't get too complacent when ramping up to temp, because every fire is different. this AM I put a Silver Maple split in the back and a Hickory split in front and one on top. Well, the Hickory caught slower but when I looked in the box I could see the Maple had taken off and was flaming pretty big in the back. I generally try to get the load catching in the front so direct flame isn't going right to the bypass area, and will cut the air to keep the flames forward in the box.
Thanks again for your help! But Yea, same setup as yours, and everything seemed to be fine once I closed the bypass and everything cooled back to normal. Once it was steady I had to go to work so I will load up again once I'm home and look things over. With below 0 temps coming up this weekend I may not be able to cool the stove down long enough to take the top cover off! Next week here in CT looking a little warmer though
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