Yellow box loop?

[Kool_hand_Looke]

What's the official difference between chipper, chisel, and chipper/chisel?

I've heard a 100 different things. Let's see if I can add more.

 

[TreePointer]

I use the following terms: chipper, semi-chisel, and chisel (sometimes called full chisel)

Wikipedia actually has a pretty good description of the three, so I won't repeat it here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_chain

 

[Firewood Bandit]

I use the following terms: chipper, semi-chisel, and chisel (sometimes called full chisel)

Wikipedia actually has a pretty good description of the three, so I won't repeat it here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saw_chain

Good link Treepointer,

The only thing I would add is chisel, (full chisel) comes in two configurations in the way it is ground. What I call conventional round ground chisel is sharpened with a round file or regular grinder. Square ground chisel is sharpened with a specialty grinder that is quite rare and it is very difficult to do by hand unless one is very proficient and then a different file is used. The latter is faster but falls off fast in abrasive conditions. Square ground can be converted to round ground after the first sharpening. I don't know if you can go the other way.

Here is a square grinder that is still available. Quite spendy.

http://simingtonchaingrinder.com/

 

[Jags]

Yeah, if you want to eat up a chain fairly fast you can square grind a chain that was originally round ground. I have never done it, but have heard of people do it for specific reasons (for some reason I recall it had to do with mill work).

 

[TreePointer]

Madsen's has a good picture of that square ground tooth. I didn't include the link because it uses some different terminology than the Wikipedia page.

(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_teeth_types.htm)

 

[smokedragon]

What I have heard and observed for myself in the two chain types I have used:

Semi chisel (green box): less kickback, stays sharp longer in less than ideal conditions, cuts a little slower (throws slightly smaller chips out of the box) doesn't "bite" into the wood as much. The chainsaw is less "grabby" in softwoods. It has trouble taking a bite out of dead wood (especially hardwood).

Full chisel (yellow box): more likely to kick back (because it has a very straight "knife" edge at the front of the tooth vs. the more rounded edge of semi-chisel). Dulls quick in dirty wood. Cuts FAST, throws bigger chips/takes a bigger bite out of the wood (will stall MS 290 sometimes). Saw is much more grabby out of the box. Cuts dead wood much better.

Semi chisel chain the cutting edge has a bit of relief at the corner (rounded). Full chisel chain the cutting edge goes all the way to a very point/sharp corner. Makes it more aggressive, but once that corner has dulled, the chain is at maybe half cutting efficiency.

I ran both back and forth, but currently run yellow box exclusively. It is a preference. Others run green box and love it.

IF it is sharp and the depth gages are set properly, they both cut quite well. BIG IF there......

 

[smokedragon]

Wanna add that I have not run square ground full chisel, but have seen it used by a pro.......it is a BEAST.

 

[TreePointer]

There is a misconception that sometimes appears when talking about Stihl chain. The shape of the tooth (semi-chisel or full-chisel) has nothing to do with whether Stihl designates the chain yellow or green.

Stihl green chain (some call it "safety chain") has low-kickback features that do not appear in their regular yellow chain. These usually include the shape of the drive link and/or the presence of guard links.

RS = full chisel, yellow
RS3 = full chisel, green

RM = semi-chisel, yellow
RM3 = semi-chisel, green

 

[smokedragon]

Sorry TreePointer.

Most of what I use is windsor, sometimes carlton........So when I was speaking to full/semi chisel, I was referring to those brands. I learned something new about Stihl chains.

 

[TreePointer]

Sorry TreePointer.

Most of what I use is windsor, sometimes carlton........So when I was speaking to full/semi chisel, I was referring to those brands. I learned something new about Stihl chains.

I actually understood your post to have your intended meaning. I have, however, seen in a few different forums that it's not uncommon for folks to think that there is no such thing as low-kickback (green) full chisel chain and I wanted to dispel that misconception.

 

[smokedragon]

I actually understood your post to have your intended meaning. I have, however, seen in a few different forums that it's not uncommon for folks to think that there is no such thing as low-kickback (green) full chisel chain and I wanted to dispel that misconception.

I appreciate the clarification, as I didn't know that either (I thought semi-chisel chain was low kickback).

I just dug out the crappy chain that came with my MS 290 and looked at it compared to the windsor chains that I run (I don't use that chain, but for some reason I have it in a drawer in the shop)........I notice a difference in how the links are put together and how the rakers are formed, so I can see what you mean about the low kickback features having nothing to do with the tooth shape but other parts of the chain.

 

[TreePointer]

I appreciate the clarification, as I didn't know that either (I thought semi-chisel chain was low kickback).

I just dug out the crappy chain that came with my MS 290 and looked at it compared to the windsor chains that I run (I don't use that chain, but for some reason I have it in a drawer in the shop)........I notice a difference in how the links are put together and how the rakers are formed, so I can see what you mean about the low kickback features having nothing to do with the tooth shape but other parts of the chain.

I still have the chain that came with my 290 and I don't use it either, lol! It was RMC3 (semi-chisel, green low-kickback).

 

[Mag Craft]

Good link Treepointer,

The only thing I would add is chisel, (full chisel) comes in two configurations in the way it is ground. What I call conventional round ground chisel is sharpened with a round file or regular grinder. Square ground chisel is sharpened with a specialty grinder that is quite rare and it is very difficult to do by hand unless one is very proficient and then a different file is used. The latter is faster but falls off fast in abrasive conditions. Square ground can be converted to round ground after the first sharpening. I don't know if you can go the other way.

Here is a square grinder that is still available. Quite spendy.

http://simingtonchaingrinder.com/

I have a Simington square grinder and have converted lots of round ground chain into square. I even have one of my wheels dressed for doing .325 as well as .375.

I have a Tecomec for doing round ground because for some applications I prefer it.

Like some have already mentioned the square grind cuts really fast but if the corner starts to dull that is it until next sharpening. I will sometimes carry 2 or 3 extra chains with me.

I have also taken some vanguard chain and ground part of the curved raker off and then converted it to square ground. I really do not recommend it because the raker ended up a little to low and made the chain aggressive. It was ok in soft wood.

 

[smokedragon]

I still have the chain that came with my 290 and I don't use it either, lol! It was RMC3 (semi-chisel, green low-kickback).

I have that same one....

Thinking about taking that chain and grinding at a 0 degree angle to make a ripping chain for cutting with the grain in rather large rounds (a redneck log splitter ). Otherwise, it will hang on the wall until I run out of both chains and money before I use it again........at least that way I can re-purpose it.

This guy did the same thing with pretty neat results

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