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lefty Ef3

Member
Nov 26, 2018
49
New Jersey 08079
Well I just ordered another auger motor for my EF3 ,the new one I just put on works like a charm but it is noisy as hell and I don’t think it’s going to get any quieter , I will say the stove is running its ass off but I can hear the motor all the way out in my kitchen which is about 40 ft away ,next one I will test on the bench before I put it in.at least this time it shouldn’t be stuck on the shaft
Like the original one.I will say this motor has me running the stove at about 10 o’clock on the dial as appossed to the normal 12oclock. I was going to wait until spring and take the stove out in the shop and do a new igniter and swap the motor but it’s that loud so it’s going to happen as soon as the new one gets here
 
Like you said, best to try off stove for noise when purchased. I usually pull covers off and put more grease in these as a habit. Companies are very frugal with the grease, plus it settles to one side as they run over the years.
 
Like you said, best to try off stove for noise when purchased. I usually pull covers off and put more grease in these as a habit. Companies are very frugal with the grease, plus it settles to one side as they run over the years.
Yeah I may try that when the new one gets here if I can quiet it down at least I would have a spare
 
Lefty on here I read about how much noise some of these pellet stoves put out and I do not understand this because I thought they were suppose to kind of quiet? Does all this have to do with the auger motors that release the pellets or other things? Now a off wall question here would a Wiseway be noisy and it justs burns pellets being gravity fed.? What do you think about the Wiseway...? Thanks..clancey
 
My ef3 is generally pretty quiet you can here the pellets drop into the burn pot a slight ting sound.the auger motor could almost never be heard ..I think because a paid a cheap price I got a cheap product.the convection fan the one that’s moves air into the house is no louder than a table fan,pending if you have it on full force..now I’m going to say my Harman p38. That’s in my garage is very quiet it is a bottom feed so you don’t hear the pellet ting in the burn pot.
 
Actually, the best approach on any quad reduction gearbox (auger feed or whatever) is to remove the motor and the gearbox, remove the motor entirely from the gearbox (2 Torx screws), remove the outboard bearing and lubricate it with light machine oil (even if it's a dust shielded skate bearing). On a dust shielded skate bearing you can pop off the dust shield with a pointed tool, oil the bearing and replace the dust shield, or just apply oil and let it soak in or if it's a plain (660 CA bronze bearing, just oil it). Pull the armature from the gearbox and set aside. Open the gearbox (Torx screws again) and take the front half (don't displace the gears keep them in place) and drill a small hole (1/8") at the top of the gear case where you can easily access it. Put it back together, insert the armature back into the gearcase and replace the outboard bearing and button everything up. Reinstall the motor- gearbox assembly and take a chainsaw sprocket nose grease gun or a needle greaser attachment on your big grease gun and pump grease into the gearbox until you see grease oozing out from around the bushing where the motor armature end enters the gearbox. At that point, it's full of grease.

I grease mine every spring during spring cleaning. Going on 20+ years on all m y drives with no issues what so ever.

The gearboxes ship from the builders with very little grease inside. Especially the China made ones and the grease that is inside tends to get hard over the long haul anyway. Greasing them yearly will cause them to outlast you.

They will run extremely quiet as well.

Little tip from a veteran stove owner.

The leading cause of drive noise is dry motor bearings and too little grease in the reduction gearbox.
 
Yeah that sounds good I figured I got 25 years out of the last one so I would treat the stove to a new one..when I swap this new one with next new one I will take her apart and see if I can quiet her down ..at least I would have a spare. But thanx for the input
 
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Actually, the best approach on any quad reduction gearbox (auger feed or whatever) is to remove the motor and the gearbox, remove the motor entirely from the gearbox (2 Torx screws), remove the outboard bearing and lubricate it with light machine oil (even if it's a dust shielded skate bearing). On a dust shielded skate bearing you can pop off the dust shield with a pointed tool, oil the bearing and replace the dust shield, or just apply oil and let it soak in or if it's a plain (660 CA bronze bearing, just oil it). Pull the armature from the gearbox and set aside. Open the gearbox (Torx screws again) and take the front half (don't displace the gears keep them in place) and drill a small hole (1/8") at the top of the gear case where you can easily access it. Put it back together, insert the armature back into the gearcase and replace the outboard bearing and button everything up. Reinstall the motor- gearbox assembly and take a chainsaw sprocket nose grease gun or a needle greaser attachment on your big grease gun and pump grease into the gearbox until you see grease oozing out from around the bushing where the motor armature end enters the gearbox. At that point, it's full of grease.

I grease mine every spring during spring cleaning. Going on 20+ years on all m y drives with no issues what so ever.

The gearboxes ship from the builders with very little grease inside. Especially the China made ones and the grease that is inside tends to get hard over the long haul anyway. Greasing them yearly will cause them to outlast you.

They will run extremely quiet as well.

Little tip from a veteran stove owner.

The leading cause of drive noise is dry motor bearings and too little grease in the reduction gearbox.

to add to sidecars statement. I highly recommend doing this with ALL aftermarket Chinese built gearboxes. I have 3 that I changed out this season. 1 they have nylon input gear (first gear armature drives) they won’t take an auger jam before stripping. 2 the grease they use smells and feels like vaseline so buyers beware!
 
As usual if it's low price and Oriental made it's suspect. Not saying they don't produce some good stuff, good example is Makita tools but without any oversight, you get poor products....
.....looks like vaseline.... Could be sweet and sour sauce instead.... ;lol

In my biased opinion, even the domestic gearboxes can benefit from a yearly greasing. it's hot back there (under the stove panels) and so the grease gets hard and drops to the bottom of the gearcase so additional grease is always a good thing and watching when it oozes out from around the input shaft also lubricates the bronze bushing the armature shaft rides in so it's an all good modification that takes very little effort to do.

Think I'd pay a bit more to get an all metal geartrain. The plastic gear sounds like a failure point to me.
 
On my auger motor I added a #6 grease zerk. Drilled and tapped it in a spot I could easily access. I can add grease with the stove running.
Bet you got that from me on the IBC forum...... I quit doing the grease fitting thing. A 1/8" hole in the case and a needle greaser is easier and quicker.
 
yeah hopefully my new one rev 2 comes today it sounds like a dam can opener when it cycles i will post some pic's of the original 25 yr old one and the 1st new one when i take them apart, hell at least i will pick up a couple spare t20 torx screws from the old one
 
In a year or so when the bearing dry out and the grease is hard in the gearbox, just remember this thread. I know you won't. You'll be on here again, wondering what to do.....