Yurt Chimney

[ryankal]

I am installing a wood stove in my yurt and plan on exiting the chimney pipe through the roof ring. For those of you who don't know, a yurt is a circular structure of Mongolian origin. It has a large roof ring in the middle to apply compression to the rafters and walls. My particular roof ring has a 36 in diameter. Would I need to run Class A Chimney pipe through this, or could I go with double wall stove pipe as I will have plenty of clearance?

Thanks in advance for any information.

Ryan

 

[begreen]

Definitely go with a supported class A chimney at the roof ring. What diameter is the yurt? What stove will you be using?

Here's an install I did several years back - through the yurt wall.

 

[ryankal]

I have a 12ft yurt. I bought a Two Dog stove from Four Dog stoves. I bought the stove a few months ago as I was prepping for a move and also planning to build my yurt. Now, as I am close to finish with my yurt, I am doing additional research and realized that I was originally mis-informed and now need to fit chimney pipe into my budget.

I can't fit $600+ into my budget right now (to do a through the wall install), so I am going to go through the roof ring, and center my stove, to save money on chimney pipe.

My thoughts: I purchased some 5in stove pipe and damper when I purchased my stove, so I would use the damper section then increase to 6 in pipe. Run single wall stove pipe straight up to 18 in from the roof ring. Then I would run chimney pipe through and out of the roof ring. I would secure the pipe inside the roof ring. I was hoping, to save money, to run double wall since I have sufficient clearance, but if I need to go triple wall, I will. I also plan to lay brick underneath my stove, was well as to the sides. This should act as a thermal mass as well as provide me a bit of a buffer. To cover the roof ring I will make something from roof flashing. Thoughts?

I have also thought of scrapping the wood stove and getting a vent free propane heater to get me to spring.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[begreen]

You can use double-wall class A pipe. They make it in 5", no need to go up to 6" for this little stove. What is the roof ring composed of? Plywood? Go pictures?

http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=73

 

[ryankal]

I have seen 5 in, but my options are fewer, and cost seems to be higher.

I was hoping to use something like this, the DuraVent DVL as I had so much clearance:

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/chimney/chimney-pipe-stove-pipe/stove-pipe/6-inch-black-stove-pipe/6-inch-dvl-stove-pipe/6-x-48-dvl-double-wall-black-stove-pipe-8648-8648.html)

But, if that won't suffice, Ill go with this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent...iple-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-9017SS/100144227

My roof ring is plywood. I attached a photo. The opening is about 25in in diameter.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[begreen]

DVL is interior pipe only. Are you just going to have a 2ft wide gaping hole up there? Or will the center of the ring be filled with a round sheet of plywood?

 

[ryankal]

I was planning on making a cover from flashing. It wouldn't be a tight seal, but would work. Since I can't use the dvl, I will get the triple wall dura vent from HD. Then I will make a cover from plywood and a storm flashing.

How do I connect standard single wall pipe to the twist lock pipe? Could I place the stove pipe w/ damper as the first section out of my stove, then the increaser to the 6 inch?

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[begreen]

Make that cover plug extra thick so that you can anchor the class A pipe very securely or back it with blocking on the inside for long screws. I would go with DuraTech double wall instead of DuraPlus triple wall. You will have more options that way. If you are going with 6" I'm guessing that you will use a support bracket like this: http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=772
You can use galvalume pipe to save some money. It will last many years. Use this adapter to connect the single wall. http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=816

 

[ryankal]

Thanks for the info begreen. I ended up purchasing some 6 in Selkirk SuperVent from Lowes. Please don't take my exact following of your recommendation as unappreciative, I am just on a very tight budget for this stovepipe.

I looked at the stove pipe I purchased with my stove and it seems to just be cheap venting pipe that snaps together (not welded), and there seems to be a small gap between sections. Should I avoid this? Im going to assume, despite my dislike of assumptions, that I should look at some stove pipe as well. I think Ill pass on a damper, as I did some searching on this forum and it seems that I likely won't need one. Though my research could be wrong.

Can I use DuraVent adapters and pipe with the Selkirk Chimney? Im not sure if pipe manufacturers all follow a standard or not.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[begreen]

Selkirk is fine. They have equivalent support bracket and pipe adapters in their product line. If the stove pipe is in good solid condition it would probably be ok to use it for the rest of the season. The heavier gauge black stove pipe is better, but not code required for a safe installation.

 

[ryankal]

Cool. Thanks! I just need this to get me to spring. In the fall I will likely approach heating with a different method.

I made the trip to Lowes to get the chimney pipe and purchased the other parts I needed. I can't seem to find a 5 to 6 in increaser. Lowes does have 4 in to 6 in adapters. I have some extra nesting pipe (that I wasn't planning on using), could I use the nesting pipe to a 4 in diameter, then use the 4 to 6 increaser from Lowes? I could order a 5 in to 6 in increaser, but would like to get heat sooner in this cold weather.

I really appreciate your help. I ordinarily research for hours before I ask questions, and I have, but I can't seem to find specific answers to some of my odd questions.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[ryankal]

Ohh, and I found a way to cover my roof ring. I will either use a galvanized trash can lid or a galvanized bucket if I can't find a large enough trash can lid. Ill just cut a hole a bit larger than the chimney pipe. I will likely seal it with rock wool. Im not sure how I will fasten it to the roof ring, but Ill figure that out before I install everything.

Ryan

 

[begreen]

Yurt installations take a bit of creative thinking. I'm not familiar with "nesting pipe" but it sounds like more hassle then worth. Check local hdrwre stores and Home Depot for the adapter or order one. You should have it in a few days if the shipping distance is not great.

 

[ryankal]

Nesting pipe is a series of sequentially smaller pipes. So starting at 5 in for the bottom, then 4.5 in for the first joint, then 4 in for the second joint and so on.

I am now thinking a large mixing bowl from a restaurant depot. If I can find the correct size it would work perfectly.

 

[begreen]

www.dynamitebuys.com is pretty responsive.

 

[ryankal]

Thanks. Ill try to find the part I need on their site.

Should I do a burn outside before I install the stove inside my yurt? I read that the pipes can off gas and that the fumes can be toxic.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[begreen]

The stove is going to smoke the most as the paint bakes in. I haven't heard anything about the fumes being toxic. That is only from the VOCs in the fresh spray paint from what I've read. If you want to do a couple break-in fires outside, no harm.

 

[Jags]

I looked at the stove pipe I purchased with my stove and it seems to just be cheap venting pipe that snaps together (not welded), and there seems to be a small gap between sections.

This isn't the stuff that is used for duct work is it?

 

[begreen]

If it is galvanized yes. If it is painted steel then it's ok

 

[ryankal]

I decided to make a ring cover from plywood. The inner circle has sufficient clearance. I will close the gap with either copper flashing or I will stuff mineral wool in the gap. I should be able to finish it tomorrow.

I did a burn in fire today. Everything seemed to work well, except the lower sections of the stove pipe went from a shiny finish to a matte finish. Is this an issue? I attached photos.

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[begreen]

That looks like galvanized warm air vent pipe which is not suitable for stove connector pipe. You should be using black stove pipe instead. What is that funnel on the top?

I would paint or varnish the exterior side of the plywood. Let it set up and dry well. Then you will need a flat roof flashing with a storm collar to keep this water tight. The support bracket goes on top, under the flashing. Silicone under the flashing to seal and screw it down. There should be an minimum of a 2" air gap around the class A pipe as it passes through the plywood. Run a bead of silicone around the top edge of the storm collar too.

 

[ryankal]

Could I use it for the rest of this season? Or do I need to purchase some stove pipe?

Im a bit annoyed that it was sold to me as stove pipe, from a stove manufacturer.

Thanks again for your help.

Ryan

 

[begreen]

It will outgas zinc gas. That's not good in a small confined space. What stove manufacturer sold the pipe? What is that funnel on the top?

 

[firefighterjake]

Just saw this in our local paper . . . thought of you yurt guys.

http://bangordailynews.com/2014/01/...morous-camping-retreat-in-lavish-durham-yurt/

 

[begreen]

That is a Rainier yurt I think. Same brand as the one we put the stove in.