My stove is really seems to control things when the door is closed and the air control is shut. I can't see opening the door, myself.
I can't see jumping out of a plane either, but if it's going to crash.......
My stove is really seems to control things when the door is closed and the air control is shut. I can't see opening the door, myself.
Startup and reloads are the dirtiest part of the burn and does not last long so no need to worry about it.The one time I did this It seemed to me to burn dirty, I dont understand why.
My stove is really seems to control things when the door is closed and the air control is shut. I can't see opening the door, myself.
First, change your underwear. Then have a stiff shot slowly consumed while watching the fire.
Next time, let the coal bed die down further before reload. Don't leave the door open on a reload and shut down the air quicker. Don't be afraid to close the air all the way if that gives you more control and it doesn't completely snuff out the fire.
My stove is really seems to control things when the door is closed and the air control is shut. I can't see opening the door, myself.
Well I got home and took off the surround, i put a level on the area of the stove top that was glowing and the flat edge of the level looked good and it was level. I opened the door to the firebox and the tubes were not sagging I put a flat edge up to them and they were fine. The welds in the fire box all looked ok. I did not drop the baffle and tubes. I shook the ss liner where it connects to the insert and it was good and tight and looks normal. I popped the chimney cap off and all looked well, I reached my hand down the liner to about my elbow and just some black dust. So I grabbed some kindling and with new respect for the stove I lit the kindling with the surround off just to monitor the ss liner connection to the appliance and look for anything unusual and all was good. The stove is now cruising at a very nice 475 degree stove top with secondaries kicking with two splits of ash, no smoke coming from the chimney. I usually do not burn only two splits and wont the two ash splits were layed on top of the kindling when it was going good. Whewww Im glad everything is going well again and I think this burner is ready for a cold one. For whats its worth and thankfully nothing real bad happened use my mis-hap as a reminder and burn with common sense this winter, Be Safe and Thank You all.
Wow Ed. I'll bet that got your heart jump started for sure. Glad it turned out okay in the end. Lesson learned.
fwiw Ed, I think folks worry too much about smoke from the chimney. Shoot, I rarely even look at ours.
I guess its just me being a newb and trying to do the right thing. I am burning cooler than ever tonight and I can see one thing for sure and thats a good consistant fire between 500 and 600 is better than a quick fire in the 600 to 800 range. Oh and less wood to do it.
Yep, it's fine. By opening the door you are simply diluting the smoke so it looks better and air has a straight shot up the chimney. Modern EPA stoves have quite a restrictive path(s) for air to enter the stove, w/ the door closed, it may appear that smoke is lingering, but that's fine; it's just waiting to build up enough heat in the firebox for that smoke to be burned by the secondaries.
pen
Not trying to hijack thread.
So if i understand this on a reload close the door and once the smoke gets hot it will start to burn and heat the stove up faster?
Not necessarily saying it will heat the stove up faster(or slower for that matter), just trying to say that leaving the door cracked does nothing but get you closer to having an "oops" evening. Even with the door closed, so long as the stove isn't back drafting, that smoke will burn eventually once things in there get hot enough. It may not look pretty for a time while cracking the door seems to help(read dilution is the solution to pollution), and it may look like it's improving things, but if the fuel is right, and the chimney is appropriate, then the door cracked is not necessary as it will clear itself out in short order anyway.
Bottom line, with good fuel, leaving the door cracked shouldn't be necessary, and the practice of doing such has lead to a good many "holy poo" threads on this site.
Take that for what it's worth.
pen
Not necessarily saying it will heat the stove up faster(or slower for that matter), just trying to say that leaving the door cracked does nothing but get you closer to having an "oops" evening. Even with the door closed, so long as the stove isn't back drafting, that smoke will burn eventually once things in there get hot enough. It may not look pretty for a time while cracking the door seems to help (read dilution is the solution to pollution), and it may look like it's improving things, but if the fuel is right, and the chimney is appropriate, then the door cracked is not necessary as it will clear itself out in short order anyway.
Bottom line, with good fuel, leaving the door cracked shouldn't be necessary, and the practice of doing such has lead to a good many "holy poo" threads on this site.
Take that for what it's worth.
pen
Close call.
For safety, keep some zip lock plastic bags full of sand near your stove/insert. The next time a fire gets away from you, toss the bags in the fire. It will slow things down to a managable level. KD
pen - I think you're talking about reloads if I'm following here
Nope, I'm talking about every time wood is put into the stove. Success with starting with the door closed will hinge on several factors; of them, the need for good, truly seasoned fuel and a good loading strategy or wood arrangement in the stove for the start up.
I say this after reading thread after thread over the years where the operator had the door innocently cracked, and the thread goes on to talk about stove damage, parts of the stove glowing red, starting a chimney fire, etc.
I used to do it as well, but then made changes to my routine and figured out what it took to get the stove to start-up without leaving the door cracked.
pen
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