My Install of Harman P-43 w/ Selkirk Direct Temp OAK, Horizontal Out

Rastallama · Nov 15, 2013

I decided to instal my Harman P-43 pellet stove... 2 years later, i am almost done! I built my hearth, researched everything about the stove and install... learned a TON !!!

I am almost done, and before I seal everything, I wanted to see if anyone has any last minute insights... This will be a horizontal out instal.

So here is the beginning of the heart pad...

and then cement board over OSB over 2x4's

Thin set mortar and flagstone

My first tile job... not quite flat/level... but i like it!

The mock up of Selkirk Direct Temp with (r to l) stove adapter, 3"-4" increaser, Direct Temp direct vent adapter, Selkirk DT pipe length (adjustable), termination adapter...

Where the vent and outside air come out of the house for the horizontal out.
Squeezing in pretty close to my electrical service. All clearances are measured from center of pipe... right?

and windows, combustibles...

Draped and getting ready in the corner...

Trimmed the inside hole with left over oak flooring... still need to finish that part...

The outside air intake connected to the direct temp direct vent attachment...

So I just need to seal/caulk the joints and fire it up... I plan on using Rutland High Temp RTV Silicone for ALL the joints... there are 2 versions and a few different colors. Does it matter? One is rated to about 500 and one is rated to about 600 degrees... I plan on getting the black since my pipe is black...

Any questions/comments/heads up will be appreciated... also, in Massachusetts, do i have to use a pro installer to be code compliant?

Thanks.

gfreek · Nov 15, 2013

Does the Selkirk DT appliance adapter fit tight on the stove exhaust collar??

Rastallama · Nov 15, 2013

gfreek said:
Does the Selkirk DT appliance adapter fit tight on the stove exhaust collar??

@gfreek It does... Super tight... and it suggests drilling 4 holes and securing the stove outlet to the adapter piece with sheet metal screws. I was also going to add a bit of RTV there.

ivanhoe · Nov 15, 2013

The only concern that alarms me is the closeness of the window. You might have to make it unopenable to meet requirements. Make sure enough clearance in front of stove of combustibles. Nice looking hearth pad and clean looking install.

Rastallama · Nov 15, 2013

ivanhoe said:
The only concern that alarms me is the closeness of the window. You might have to make it unopenable to meet requirements. Make sure enough clearance in front of stove of combustibles. Nice looking hearth pad and clean looking install.

Thanks @ivanhoe. It looks like you're up in canada where you need around 18" of clearance from the front of stove? US has(d) around 6" front clearance, i hope it hasnt changed... it has 16" front clearance regardless... and the window is 20"... with outside air i need a minimum of 18"... I hope i read all the code right!

P38X2 · Nov 16, 2013

Clearance to the meter OK?

Rastallama · Nov 16, 2013

@P38X2 I looked high and lo for anything re clearance to electrical meter and could find nothing. Do you know of any clearances?

P38X2 · Nov 16, 2013

Rastallama said:
@P38X2 I looked high and lo for anything re clearance to electrical meter and could find nothing. Do you know of any clearances?

I'd call your building inspector to be sure. Can't assume everything is listed in the manual. Item "I" (letter, not #) is listed as 6' but I'm almost positive that's for a gas meter. That's how the pic looks anyway. I don't believe there are any other electrical clearances listed, such as outlet proximity, or wires in the wall, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Better safe than sorry.

Rastallama · Nov 16, 2013

P38X2 said:
I'd call your building inspector to be sure. Can't assume everything is listed in the manual. Item "I" (letter, not #) is listed as 6' but I'm almost positive that's for a gas meter. That's how the pic looks anyway. I don't believe there are any other electrical clearances listed, such as outlet proximity, or wires in the wall, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Better safe than sorry.

@P38X2 thanks!

Rastallama · Nov 16, 2013

I ended up using the black "Seal It Right" on the inside pipe and clear RTV on the exposed pipe.

A few knicks on the lip of the 3" to 4" increaser.

Almost done...

Lowarea · Nov 16, 2013

Curious as to why your calking all the joints?

I just started a DT install (masonary chimney), I thought I had read in the Install instructions that it's not required except for the appliance adapter and the DT stove adapter. Did I miss something ?

Rastallama · Nov 16, 2013

Lowarea said:
Curious as to why your calking all the joints?

I just started a DT install (masonary chimney), I thought I had read in the Install instructions that it's not required except for the appliance adapter and the DT stove adapter. Did I miss something ?

@Lowarea I agree... According to the instructions, it's only required on the stove adapter to DT adapter... I also have an increaser piece that attached with sheet metal screws but still had lots of air spaces... Out of fear of having to troubleshoot the smell of smoke once the stove is installed, I'm simply overdoing it having read other peoples experiences tracing smells and not using enough sealant the first time... And this is my first instal so I'm learning by doing! Even though the DT pieces say you don't need sealant, I'm going to add some anyway .. out of fear!

Lowarea · Nov 17, 2013

Probably a good idea. Nice install!

gfreek · Nov 17, 2013

Good idea to seal the 3 to 4" adapter, secure with screws, and seal that appliance adapter on both ends

Harman Lover 007 · Nov 17, 2013

Rastallama said:
Thanks @ivanhoe. It looks like you're up in canada where you need around 18" of clearance from the front of stove? US has(d) around 6" front clearance, i hope it hasnt changed... it has 16" front clearance regardless... and the window is 20"... with outside air i need a minimum of 18"... I hope i read all the code right!

I think he means clearance to the window outside near the venting....Isn't it 4 feet in Massachusetts?

Rastallama · Nov 17, 2013

Harman Lover 007 said:
I think he means clearance to the window outside near the venting....Isn't it 4 feet in Massachusetts?

@Harman Lover 007 Yes, though the manual suggests that when outside air is used, the distance to openable window is 18". If I read it right.

Rastallama · Nov 17, 2013

gfreek said:
Good idea to seal the 3 to 4" adapter, secure with screws, and seal that appliance adapter on both ends

@gfreek Right on, that's the plan.

P43pig · Nov 17, 2013

Rastallama said:
@Harman Lover 007 Yes, though the manual suggests that when outside air is used, the distance to openable window is 18". If I read it right.

18" in ma with oak

turbosporsche · Nov 17, 2013

Rastallama said:
I decided to instal my Harman P-43 pellet stove... 2 years later, i am almost done! I built my hearth, researched everything about the stove and install... learned a TON I am almost done, and before I seal everything, I wanted to see if anyone has any last minute insights... This will be a horizontal out instal.

So here is the beginning of the heart pad...

View attachment 117826

and then cement board over OSB over 2x4's
View attachment 117827

Thin set mortar and flagstone
View attachment 117828

My first tile job... not quite flat/level... but i like it!
View attachment 117829

The mock up of Selkirk Direct Temp with (r to l) stove adapter, 3"-4" increaser, Direct Temp direct vent adapter, Selkirk DT pipe length (adjustable), termination adapter...
View attachment 117830

Where the vent and outside air come out of the house for the horizontal out.
Squeezing in pretty close to my electrical service. All clearances are measured from center of pipe... right?
View attachment 117831

and windows, combustibles...
View attachment 117832

Draped and getting ready in the corner...
View attachment 117833

Trimmed the inside hole with left over oak flooring... still need to finish that part...
View attachment 117834

The outside air intake connected to the direct temp direct vent attachment...
View attachment 117835

So I just need to seal/caulk the joints and fire it up... I plan on using Rutland High Temp RTV Silicone for ALL the joints... there are 2 versions and a few different colors. Does it matter? One is rated to about 500 and one is rated to about 600 degrees... I plan on getting the black since my pipe is black...

Any questions/comments/heads up will be appreciated... also, in Massachusetts, do i have to use a pro installer to be code compliant?

Thanks.

Way to close to the meter box and to close to the window.

In theory if the window was open or had a bad seal co could leak inside. Not saying that it would but in a strong wind storm it could. I'd probably run a 90 then go up past the window.

Also y trim on the inside the collar goes up against the sheet rock. Now u have an over hang of the flang. Just imoa.

Rastallama · Nov 17, 2013

turbosporsche said:
Way to close to the meter box and to close to the window.

In theory if the window was open or had a bad seal co could leak inside. Not saying that it would but in a strong wind storm it could. I'd probably run a 90 then go up past the window.

Also y trim on the inside the collar goes up against the sheet rock. Now u have an over hang of the flang. Just imoa.

@turbosporsche Thanks. I hope I dont have CO issues with a close window, so far all code says 18" with outside air installed, not that CO listens to code... The window is ultimately >20" from center of vent pipe...
The trim on the inside actually helps the collar to sit flush on the wall so i didnt have to cut the baseboard trim that is already there... it looks "unfinished" until I add another piece of trim on top to address the flange.

As for the electrical meter, I havent found anything about clearances re the electrical meter... Im crossing my fingers since i already cut the hole.

Thanks for your info.

Harman Lover 007 · Nov 17, 2013

P43pig said:
18" in ma with oak

Interesting.....I always thought window clearance from the exhaust was a CO issue possibly coming in the window.....

P38X2 · Nov 17, 2013

Harman Lover 007 said:
Interesting.....I always thought window clearance from the exhaust was a CO issue possibly coming in the window.....

I believe it is. Adding an OAK eliminates the possibility of the stove sucking back in CO, or smoke, through a close proximity crack. With the greater, non OAK'd clearance, I guess the CO is assumed to dissapate sufficiently so as not to create a real world danger. As long as the OAK is properly sealed, there's much less danger. As far as burning embers flying back in an open window go, 18" to whatever the non OAK'd clearances are, is trivial.

They are assuming the owner isn't gonna have the windows open while running the stove. Ha! At least they trust us dumb homeowners to have that covered

That's my theory anyway.

samdweezel05 · Nov 17, 2013

I'm no pro but why no vertical pipe? I'm not sure you will like the result if the power goes out wile the stove is running. The vertical pipe will cause a draft and keep the smoke from a non functional stove from ending up in the house. Also, running a 3 or 4 foot vertical pipe inside the house would have eliminated any clearance issues with either the window or the meter box.

Don2222 · Nov 17, 2013

Harman Lover 007 said:
I think he means clearance to the window outside near the venting....Isn't it 4 feet in Massachusetts?

4 feet if no OAK, with the Selkirk DT built in OAK it reduces the clearance to 18 inches

Rastallama · Nov 17, 2013

samdweezel05 said:
I'm no pro but why no vertical pipe? I'm not sure you will like the result if the power goes out wile the stove is running. The vertical pipe will cause a draft and keep the smoke from a non functional stove from ending up in the house. Also, running a 3 or 4 foot vertical pipe inside the house would have eliminated any clearance issues with either the window or the meter box.

@samdweezel05 I got all hung up on wanting to a real simple horizontal out and just kept running with it. Thats the main reason there is no up/out or out/up... I have a generator to run the stove during a power out. I assume this will handle the "smoke in the house" from a power outage. If it all goes to heck, then I will scrap my current proj and do an up/out install... probably muttering "they were right" the whole time!

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