Preparing for the next cold snap

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HotCoals

Minister of Fire
Oct 27, 2010
3,429
Rochester,Ny.
Thought this might be timely because of the recent cold most have had. I know we are supposed to get cold again in a few days.

One thought I have is to buy some heavy insulated curtains for those extra cold nights.
Even with fancy triple pane E glass some have I bet they would still help.
I'm interested to hear other ideas from you people.
I'm also going to buy a real humidifier to use for those real cold spells.
 
I use extra thick curtains on my French doors and the glass slider in the back. I got big windows all thru my house and it really does help to use them thick curtains and a good set of blinds to help insulate sum.
 
+1 on the thick heavy curtains. an added value for me is that i work weird hours therefore, i sleep weird hours. the curtains help with the light levels during the day time too. works for me, especially in the bedroom.
 
Same here... Mrs. Blue came up with a set of quilted curtains that took the bedroom from 'tolerable' to 'hey, it's nice in here.'
 
Thought this might be timely because of the recent cold most have had. I know we are supposed to get cold again in a few days.

One thought I have is to buy some heavy insulated curtains for those extra cold nights.
Even with fancy triple pane E glass some have I bet they would still help.
I'm interested to hear other ideas from you people.
I'm also going to buy a real humidifier to use for those real cold spells.
If the panes are really cold when you put your hand on them, then the insulated curtains will help, yes. If not, don't bother.

My windows are old and have those old but still tight and functional triple-sash storm/screen windows on the outside. They don't leak air, but they do get cold and shed that cold into the rooms. I got basic insulated curtains from Gardeners Supply, and the very cold evening I put them up, the temperature in my big main room went up a couple of degrees, and the cold air on the floor was much less.

IOW, didn't make a huge difference, but when you do, as I did, three or four or five small things each of which make a degree or two difference, it adds up.
 
Coal build up seems to be a problem when it's extra cold for some..it can effect my stove some also.
I have had good luck burning pine for hot fires on cold nights when I'm home..way less coals.
I'm stopping at TSC to see if they have any bio-bricks as they don't coal much either just to use for those evenings.
 
Coal build up seems to be a problem when it's extra cold for some..it can effect my stove some also.
I have had good luck burning pine for hot fires on cold nights when I'm home..way less coals.
I'm stopping at TSC to see if they have any bio-bricks as they don't coal much either just to use for those evenings.
Yes, I do get that when I'm having to run the stove hard. And the beech I burn in the coldest weather seems to do it more than other extra-hardwoods. Meant to pick up a bag of pellets when I was last up in town to help with burning them down, but didn't get around to it, dammit. So some cold mornings, I just grit my teeth and shovel out a lot of smaller charcoal with the ash. (I have an ash bucket with a false bottom and a tight-fitting lid that suffocates the coals that are still hot and sits on a corner of my hearth, so I can take it out and dump it in the bigger can sitting on stone outside when I'm ready-- and fully awake.)
 
I have a small firebox and my wood is random lengths from 14 to 18 inches. I'm planning to set aside some that fill the box more for nighttime burns. Burn the odds and ends when I'm up. I also learned that I get better overnight burns when the stove has been on all day than when I light it in the afternoon. I have a insulated and lined 25ft masonry flue.
 
I have a small firebox and my wood is random lengths from 14 to 18 inches. I'm planning to set aside some that fill the box more for nighttime burns. Burn the odds and ends when I'm up. I also learned that I get better overnight burns when the stove has been on all day than when I light it in the afternoon. I have a insulated and lined 25ft masonry flue.
Yup, that helps. My stove takes up to 20 inches (side-loading door), but I get 16-inch wood because it's more standard and easier to deal with. When I really need the longest possible overnight burn, I shove it right up against the far end of the firebox E/W, and then fill up the extra space near the door with a selection of small pieces that fit N/S.

If I were cutting my own wood, I'd make sure to have a good supply of 20-inchers for overnights, and I may ask my supplier if he's willing to do that for me for next year.
 
My small insert takes all of the pressure off of my big stove. The predicted high here for Monday will be -15F. For the first time ever, I'll probably be running both wood burning units 24/7.
 
My small insert takes all of the pressure off of my big stove. The predicted high here for Monday will be -15F. For the first time ever, I'll probably be running both wood burning units 24/7.
Aieeee! Yeah, you folks in the center of the country are really going to get smacked-- "polar vortex" indeed. This one isn't going to hit us in the East anywhere near as badly as that, or as bad as the one we're just coming out of.
 
One thing folks with sub-optimal wood should do is go out and buy several packs or a pallet load of BioBricks, EcoBricks or HomeFire Prest-Logs.
 
Insulated curtains in my office. The windows are set terribly. Decent windows but they did not seal the perimeters good, and I don't want to caulk them until I install new metal trim capping outside. What works even better than the curtains is 3M window film. The Frost King stuff sucks, and pulls loose, so don't bother with theirs. The film works year round for this room, hot & cold. And I have the insulated curtains over the windows also. I got my curtains at Walmart on sale for $10.00 each package.
I do have to cut the film on one window every summer to run an A/C unit in that window, and usually put new film over that window. Have been lazy and have not done it this year. Figures it would be a colder winter .

Not going to get into a debate, just gonna say that leaving ash & coals inside the home whether tightly sealed lid or not, is just not a good idea, and not worth taking the risk that comes with it. Most of those lids are not air tight to start with, but regardless, it is just a common sense thing. To each their own, won't do that here.
 
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Although we're not getting the cold snap, I'll third about the curtains! Bought some high efficiency blinds this year for my two big windows. Made a big difference
 
+1 for the window film. It can make a big difference if you have a lot of glass in the house.
 
I What works even better than the curtains is 3M window film. The Frost King stuff sucks, and pulls loose, so don't bother with theirs.

Not going to get into a debate, just gonna say that leaving ash & coals inside the home whether tightly sealed lid or not, is just not a good idea, and not worth taking the risk that comes with it. Most of those lids are not air tight to start with, but regardless, it is just a common sense thing. To each their own, won't do that here.
I haven't done the window film thing because I'm reluctant to muddy my ability to identify birds and enjoy my fantastic view. Do you find the film doesn't, well, look like film but gives a clear view? And do you have a brand you do recommend?

As for the coals, as you say, each to his/her own, but the lid on this is demonstrably tight enough to snuff out the coals, and the bottom of the bucket never gets more than warm. Even so, I never put it down anywhere but on the hearth and out on the snow or concrete, even for a second. I treat all hot things with absolute respect.
 
The film is barely noticeable. To give an example, I can see very clearly through the film. I take pictures through it. I can see thought the film easier than I can see through a section of window that has a screen on it. Same for picture taking, thought film, unseen, through window screen, I get that usual hazy grid pattern. So the film should be no issue with view. You actually get the film in place, then slightly heat it up with a heat gun or hair drier, and it becomes tight & taught. I can see mine slightly bulg at times while a wind gust blows. The film works very well to kill drafts.
 
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Sorry if I sound like I'm bragging but i'm more amazed than anything. My house was built in 93 so insulation is ok. Windows and patio door are double pane, front door with storm door is always open when i'm home and is single pane. You can feel air coming in around the windows and doors. Not a lot but its there. Temp outside yesterday was 16 with wind, house temp never feel below 83. I run the stove as I always do no pushing it all. Loaded last night at 11:30 got it cruising at 700 turned the blower on low like I always do at night which took the stove to 650 which tool the living room to 88 degrees. Went to bed. It was 4 outside. Woke up this morning at 7:00 to a 84 degree house and a 350 stove full of coals. I know if I still had that old Vermont Castings Dutchwest I would have probably been up all night feeding the fire
 
We never have the house temp above 75F in the living room. If we were having a serious cold snap in the low teens I'm guessing that 70F would be fine. We'd be miserable at 84F. House construction varies tremendously. Our house for example, has no house wrap under the clapboads, not even tar paper.
 
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I'd like some insulated curtains. Basically, there's not much we can do more except make note of where we're getting air in so we can fix it in spring.

I did make a little extra space for more wood inside.
 
things i really enjoyed in Germany long ago were the rolladen shutters great at keeping storms and cold at bay, not to mention the daylight. not too popular here in the states but i see there is a dealer in Las Vegas http://rolladenlv.com/ i'd love to have some installed someday, or find a place with them already in.
 
Here is some photos to give you an idea of the view with the film, and you can also see the insulated curtains.
I think you can tell which is through the film alone, and which is thought the film & screen.

In my case, the windows are very tall, I had to use 2 pcs of film, and made a seam with the tape that comes with the film. Once you heat the film up, it all comes tight and the seam is minimal.
 

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Here is some photos to give you an idea of the view with the film, and you can also see the insulated curtains.
I think you can tell which is through the film alone, and which is thought the film & screen.
That's really superb. Thanks very much. Yes, the screens drive me nuts, too, and since my house is almost always cooler than the outside air even though I don't have a/c, I don't even put them down on most of the windows in the house in the summertime, just a couple here and there on the north and east sides to get some fresh air in.

I'll definitely give it a try on a couple of windows and see how it goes. I'm not sure how tight I'll be able to get the film on 150-yo window frames, but worth a try.

You mentioned to stay away from Frost King film. Got other brands that have worked OK for you?
 
That's really superb. Thanks very much. Yes, the screens drive me nuts, too, and since my house is almost always cooler than the outside air even though I don't have a/c, I don't even put them down on most of the windows in the house in the summertime, just a couple here and there on the north and east sides to get some fresh air in.

I'll definitely give it a try on a couple of windows and see how it goes. I'm not sure how tight I'll be able to get the film on 150-yo window frames, but worth a try.

You mentioned to stay away from Frost King film. Got other brands that have worked OK for you?
I used the ones made by 3M. The tape has held for a few seasons now. The Frost King tape lets loose and the film pops off it.
The tape is double sides, and I mounted mine on the sides of the window trim. I just wiped the sides and top down with a clean rag to remove any dust, run the double sides tape that comes with the pack along the trim sides, then cut the film to fit(go large and trim excess off after, get it fairly taught and set onto the tape, then lightly heat with a heat gun or hair drier. Walla
Be especially careful not to heat too much or stay in one spot too long, it will melt a hole in the film. Yes I speak from experienced on that one. Simple enough fix though, surround the hole with tape, and stick a patch of film over it, heat a little and done. This is by far the most noticeable difference I have see in the window weatherproofing. Like I said, when the wind gusts, I can hear the film flex/stretch a little and see it actually bulge a bit to the point I can see the curtains moving in and out LOL. So I know it works very well. Excellent for stopping drafts.

My place gets full sun and is hot in the summer. NO A/C cept a couple window units for now. I hate the screens cause there are these very small gnats that go right through the screen. My kitchen gets swarmed at night with the window open and the lights on. I did find a blog online that mentioned a bowl full of soapy dish soap & water, and sure enough, in the morning the bowl was full of dead gnats. Still hate them being in the house buzzing around me and any lights on or the TV etc. Just finally killed a few stray flys that been buzzing in here the last luke warm days we had last week. Hate those nasty filthy tings, especially hearing them when I am laying in bed in the bedroom.
 
You can use the frost king window film, but just get the film and purchase the 3M tape separately. Hog is exactly right here, there is a big difference in quality between 3M and all others we tried. For big windows I got the film sheets made for French doors. They covered our 10' x 5' picture windows without seams.
 
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