Tarm Draft Question

lawandorder · Jan 9, 2011

So, I have been dealing with large amounts of smoke/steam coming from my chimney for the last year or so. I havent really been able get a grasp as to why. When I tried to figure out what was going on I decided to check my draft on the chimney to see if that may be something. I found that I have a steady draft of at least .08 and the guage bounces around a bit during a burn but it ranges from .08 to .13. If I remember correctly Tarm manual shows a steady draft of no more than .05. With that in mind how does my draft numbers being high relate to the smoking issue?? My stack temps have been high usually around 500-600 with turbulators installed and I seam to be producing a lot of btu's very quickly and seem to have more idle time. Just trying to see if all this is connected to my issues.

Singed Eyebrows · Jan 9, 2011

lawandorder said:
So, I have been dealing with large amounts of smoke/steam coming from my chimney for the last year or so. I havent really been able get a grasp as to why. When I tried to figure out what was going on I decided to check my draft on the chimney to see if that may be something. I found that I have a steady draft of at least .08 and the guage bounces around a bit during a burn but it ranges from .08 to .13. If I remember correctly Tarm manual shows a steady draft of no more than .05. With that in mind how does my draft numbers being high relate to the smoking issue?? My stack temps have been high usually around 500-600 with turbulators installed and I seam to be producing a lot of btu's very quickly and seem to have more idle time. Just trying to see if all this is connected to my issues.

If you are pulling the wood gas through a decent bed of coals the smoke should be burnt up. Steam is obviously from high moisture wood. My guess is you dont have a deep bed of coals that is glowing bright red. This needs to cover the entire nozzle area. Check your overfire air, I'm not sure how EKO does this & without the right air you won't get the right coal bed. I would follow Tarms advice on draft & hopefully that will bring down the high gas temps, Randy

flyingcow · Jan 9, 2011

Stack temp does seem a little high. Mine runs about 400 when everythings cleaned good. I'm not much help, as i have never checked my draft. Runs fine. But i do get a small amount of "vapors" "steam" if you will, when the temps are cold outside. Very similiar to my oil furnace puts out. Not large amounts. No smoke. Call and talk to Tarm. can you see your flame? You got a moisture meter for your wood? i clean my unit when it creeps above 500 stack temp. Approx every 2 weeks. Scrub the tubes and turbs very well.

sweetheat · Jan 9, 2011

if your seeing the large amounts of steam and smoke your whole system is starting out cold? how is the temp for your storage system? smoke should disappear in an hour or less. I do not think the draft is a problem. If your seeing 500 to 600 degrees you most definitely need to clean your turbulators. my stack temps were 300 with good gasssification turbs in place. sweetheat

jebatty · Jan 9, 2011

There is an adjustable damper on the draft fan, all under the top cover. I had this same problem with my Tarm initially, bugged the crap out of me. Then I finally discovered the damper, gradually closed it down until my burns were where I wanted them, and life now is good.

lawandorder · Jan 10, 2011

Ive already adjusted the draft damper adjustment and have dialed it down almost more than half and I am still seeing the 475 - 600 temps even after the cleaning. I dont let my storage get down below 160 but I need at least that for usable BTUS with the slantfin. In looking at the Tarm manual. They recommend draft of .02-.05. There is a section on barometric dampers which says to keep the draft at .05 or below. They go so far as to suggest even two dampers if you need to get the draft down. I dont really know what effect that has on the actual burn.

Singed Eyebrows · Jan 10, 2011

You can also try putting a piece of strap steel crosswise across the nozzle, start at about 1" wide & adjust from there. Don't bother to glue down. This will cut flow through the boiler & might help your stack temps, this works very well on my Atmos. Might help, Randy

RobC · Jan 10, 2011

Singed. When you say the nozzle, are you referring to where the coals sit ( bottom of fire box ) and gas blows down into lower refractory ?
On the Tarm that area above gets cherry red and is made out of refractory cement too. Not sure I'd put any thing there except wood.

Singed Eyebrows · Jan 10, 2011

RobC said:
Singed. When you say the nozzle, are you referring to where the coals sit ( bottom of fire box ) and gas blows down into lower refractory ?
On the Tarm that area above gets cherry red and is made out of refractory cement too. Not sure I'd put any thing there except wood.

Hi, Yes I'm talking about the area where the coals sit. I had misgivings at first too untill I figured that the coals are bright red to yellow in color so a glowing piece of steel is really no different. This made quite a difference in my Atmos. I'm using 1 1/4" wide 1/4" thick strap iron with a low velocity big area nozzle. I figured it best to start out smaller for other boilers, 1", as most boilers have higher velocity nozzles(the Atmos is made to also natural draft). I use considerably less wood with this & have 350 to 400 degrees flue gas temps. Doesn't cost much to try, Randy PS, If you don't like the results you can reach in with a large pliers at any time & pull it out.

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Tarm Draft Question

lawandorder

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Singed Eyebrows

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flyingcow

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sweetheat

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jebatty

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lawandorder

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Singed Eyebrows

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RobC

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Singed Eyebrows

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