aint it amazing!

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I sometimes stay awake at night thinking about this - oh, wait a minute, no I don't. I stay awake thinking about pulled pork samiches and beer. My bad.
 
Okay, pook, I just have to ask...and understand I ain't flamin' or hatin' in any way. But are you convinced that every stove (or at least 8.5/10) is going to overdraft? I can't count on both hands/feet the number of times I've seen the now infamous Gulland's Florida Bungalow Syndrome link this season alone.

I am honestly, 100% genuinely curious.
 
Jags said:
I sometimes stay awake at night thinking about this - oh, wait a minute, no I don't. I stay awake thinking about pulled pork samiches and beer. By bad.
try pull pork instead of contemplating + more beer faster! = higher octane either way, be4 the aftermath
 
Pagey said:
Okay, pook, I just have to ask...and understand I ain't flamin' or hatin' in any way. But are you convinced that every stove (or at least 8.5/10) is going to overdraft? I can't count on both hands/feet the number of times I've seen the now infamous Gulland's Florida Bungalow Syndrome link this season alone.

I am honestly, 100% genuinely curious.
dunno, but overdrafting can have serious consequences beyond being a temporary PITA.
 
~*~vvv~*~ said:
Pagey said:
Okay, pook, I just have to ask...and understand I ain't flamin' or hatin' in any way. But are you convinced that every stove (or at least 8.5/10) is going to overdraft? I can't count on both hands/feet the number of times I've seen the now infamous Gulland's Florida Bungalow Syndrome link this season alone.

I am honestly, 100% genuinely curious.
dunno, but overdrafting can have serious consequences beyond being a temporary PITA.

Fair enough. Suffice to say you piqued my curiosity, that's all.
 
If you read the whole Florida Bungalow paper, you'll see that the use of a barometric damper to ameliorate the problem wasn't what he suggested doing. Why?

The problem with barometric dampers is, the reduced updraft might adversely affect the secondary burn, reducing efficiency and increasing emissions. Further, the intrusion of room-temperature air into the flue cools the flue gases, causing increased creosote formation. Finally, if the increased formation of creosote leads to a chimney fire, the resulting extreme updraft will pull the barometric damper WIDE open, and could allow the chimney fire to rage out of control.

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hoxdraft.htm

How will the plastic bag of wet newspaper work if all the air is getting sucked in above the stove?

Lowering flue temps to fix burning problems is never a good idea IMHO. Control of air at the intake rather than at the exhaust is one of the cornerstones of modern stove design theory.
 
Battenkiller said:
Lowering flue temps to fix burning problems is never a good idea IMHO. Control of air at the intake rather than at the exhaust is one of the cornerstones of modern stove design theory.

If he ever buys a wood stove or wood furnace he may figure that out.
 
Battenkiller said:
If you read the whole Florida Bungalow paper, you'll see that the use of a barometric damper to ameliorate the problem wasn't what he suggested doing. Why?

The problem with barometric dampers is, the reduced updraft might adversely affect the secondary burn, reducing efficiency and increasing emissions. Further, the intrusion of room-temperature air into the flue cools the flue gases, causing increased creosote formation. Finally, if the increased formation of creosote leads to a chimney fire, the resulting extreme updraft will pull the barometric damper WIDE open, and could allow the chimney fire to rage out of control.

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hoxdraft.htm

How will the plastic bag of wet newspaper work if all the air is getting sucked in above the stove?

Lowering flue temps to fix burning problems is never a good idea IMHO. Control of air at the intake rather than at the exhaust is one of the cornerstones of modern stove design theory.
even safer is to spray water into the baro & not have to open the door of stove, fire extinguisher also=gonna suck into chimni right? baro + chimnifire is bad unless it dont hurt the chimni
 
While I agree with the worst case scenario, they can be a good thing if used properly. Our furnace has a automatic damper controlled by a servo. Depending on the house temp, the damper will open and feed the fire alot of air. I need the baro to stabilize my draft in the chimney. If I didn't have it, I would overdraft severly and damage the unit. With the draft set to a specific speed, I don't have to worry about that damper remaining open when I sleep. I lined our chimney this year because our flue temps run low. With a good fire with secondary combustion, our temps probably aren't more than 400 if lucky inside. Still we see no smoke from the chimney with the damper closed. Now I have heard of other furnace owners that after 30 days have filled their flues with creosote. They had an older furnace and their flue speeds were set too low. Having a Epa furnace we don't have those issues. Yes it does lower the flue temps, but if its set to a higher speed, it will open as little as possible allowing more heat in the flue. I have been burning over the last month, and we have nothing in the flue or chimney. If you don't have a tall chimney then you don't need one, and if you have an older stove I would say no to using one, but if recommended they can be a good thing.
 
BrotherBart said:
Battenkiller said:
Lowering flue temps to fix burning problems is never a good idea IMHO. Control of air at the intake rather than at the exhaust is one of the cornerstones of modern stove design theory.

If he ever buys a wood stove or wood furnace he may figure that out.

Whole heartedly agree with you both, BB and BK!

Shari
 
Battenkiller said:
Lowering flue temps to fix burning problems is never a good idea IMHO. Control of air at the intake rather than at the exhaust is one of the cornerstones of modern stove design theory.

Totally agree. Install a secondary air control and then you'll be ready for anything.
 
Shari said:
BrotherBart said:
Battenkiller said:
Lowering flue temps to fix burning problems is never a good idea IMHO. Control of air at the intake rather than at the exhaust is one of the cornerstones of modern stove design theory.

If he ever buys a wood stove or wood furnace he may figure that out.

Whole heartedly agree with you both, BB and BK!

Shari
heart feels, brain thinx. modern oil burner uses barodamper to stabilize draft. i see cup of creo from chimniclean & wonder how fat a chimnifire that could produce? LOL
 
~*~vvv~*~ said:
that barometric dampers get installed on wood boiler & furnaces but not woodstoves?





"The reduced updraft will adversely affect the secondary burn, reducing efficiency and increasing emissions. Further, the intrusion of room-temperature air into the flue cools the flue gases, causing increased creosote formation. Finally, if the increased formation of creosote leads to a chimney fire, the resulting extreme updraft will pull the barometric damper WIDE open, and will allow the chimney fire to rage out of control."
by Somebody
 
~*~vvv~*~ said:
that barometric dampers get installed on wood boiler & furnaces but not woodstoves?

For the same reasons as the other posters say along with not every manufacture wants or recommends a barometric on their wood boiler,gas boiler, oil boiler or furnace. Just sayin me knows eh!
 
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