OK I'll try that tonight. I would think that I have hit 500 degrees as I burn on high after every reload for 20 to 30 min.
Ashford 30.1 smoke smell
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It's possible you have. Just going down a list of possible alternative causes. It takes a while to get the full mass of the stove hot. I would shoot for a stove top temp of about 600-650F for at least an hour. Open a window if necessary.
OK I'll try that tonight. I would think that I have hit 500 degrees as I burn on high after every reload for 20 to 30 min.
Thanks for all the help. I'll try that tonight.
If I had to pin point where I smell the smoke it would be the left vent above the door. I don't smell anything on the right side.
I ended up sending him a message asking for some input. He suggested checking to make sure the glass isn't moving. That's something I haven't tried yet.
I just measured my chimney and I came up with about a little over 15' but I didn't measure in the attic.
blueguy
Feeling the Heat
Try redoing the gasket cement under the door gasket on the hinge side from just above where the air feeds down onto the glass down to below the bottom hinge - use one continuous bead of silicone / cement. Does your door gasket have a section of flat wrap anywhere between the hinges?
blueguy
Feeling the Heat
Does it look like this?
You should be able to do the adhesive yourself. There has been evidence posted that the smoke smell is being pushed under the gasket by the air wash on the hinge side - putting a solid bead under the gasket in this area should help keep the smell from being pushed under.
There is also a thought that the flat gasket wrap over the joint in the door gasket is allowing some of the smoke past due to how stiff it is and the air wash pushing down on that location.
BS . . . most of us here have woodstoves and you do not smell smoke inside the home unless there is a drafting problem . . . which is quite rare. If I had to choose whether to save money and have my house smell like smoke and creosote or pay a higher price with burning oil and not have the house smell . . . I would burn oil . . . but fortunately I don't have to make that choice.
Your dealer is either an idiot or blowing the proverbial smoke up your butt.
blueguy
Feeling the Heat
You can buy it at a stove shop, or alternatively, hit up the section in your local auto parts store that has all he RTV and gasket makers and find one that is rated for the highest temps. Most stove gasket silicone is only rated up to 500 or 600 degrees, so any of the high temp RTV will do.
That is my experience as well. Almost burn my nose to check for the smell and I can find it but otherwise nobody says anything. It's like checking the dog's butthole for dog farts. If you get right up on that dog's butthole it probably has a smell even if the dog hasn't farted.
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I will need to be replacing my door gasket someday and this flat gasket method seems crazy. Is that the newly recommended method? Isn't the silicone always a continuous bead?
I had to remove/lift a section of OEM door gasket material to access and tighten one of the door glass bracket nuts which lies under the gasket. It's a big nut and I agree that a superior design would locate those nuts outside of the gasket.
blueguy
Feeling the Heat
I changed out that door gasket with the wrap due to the same smoke smell between the hinges that everyone else is mentioning. Presto - the smoke smell is gone. I attribute it to two things - that weirdo wrap and the non-continuous bead of silicone under the gasket. As a side note, after I installed the new OEM gasket, I tried to find 7/8" door gasket here locally, and the closest I could find was 1" Osburn gasket the dealer said measured out to 7/8", and lo and behold, the bag included a section of that flat wrap. I half wonder if some of the doors came with some outsourced gasket with the wrapped joints between the hinges vice the OEM stuff that BK specifies the joints in the lower corner?
When I redid the gasket, I went over all of the glass retainer nuts and checked their tightness, and none were loose. After reinstalling the gasket, I can't say that the nuts under it are causing any interference issues....at least on my stove.
Edit: the Osburn gasket doesn't fit. It's too big. I'll also mention that another reason why I think maybe the gasket was outsourced was that the original gasket that came with my door was quite difficult to close for the first little while and seemed quite large for 7/8". The new OEM stuff seemed a bit smaller and I even had to tighten the door latch a bit to pass the dollar bill test.
blueguy
Feeling the Heat
That's what I plan to use too. Ultra black RTV from the auto parts store. It's "high temp" and looks good if it were to spooge out from under the gasket. My Englander NC30 used what appears to be the ultra black RTV as well.
Are BK dealers the only place to get the gasket from?
Also could I just reuse my gasket and put a new bead of silicone under the gasket?
BK uses a special gasket. I would only buy it from BK or through a BK dealer if you're replacing.
You could always reuse a gasket if it has not been compromised but due to the low cost of a new gasket I would recommend a new one.
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