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Basement installation questions...

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by mister falcon, Aug 24, 2008.

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  1. mister falcon

    mister falcon New Member

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    Hi All,

    So we purchase a Summers Heat Model 55 SHP 240L Pellet Stove from Lowes. We would like to install it in our basement, but are slightly confused about the regulations in regards to ground clearance. In the manual, it says that the Pellet Vent Pipe must be 3 feet from the ground. However, it does not specify if it is the actual pipe, or the termination of the pipe that must adhere to said clearance. This would actually make a huge difference for us, because the ground to the sill of the houses clearance is 3 feet. So if the minimum clearance to the actual pipe, and not the termination of the pipe must be 3 feet, we cannot even install in our basement. If I could bore a hole through my foundation at 2 feet, put the thimble in, extend the pipe out by 1 foot, and attach a 6 foot section at that point, we would be all set. Basically, the pipe would be 2 feet off the ground, but not terminated for another 6 feet up (due to the draft regulations, it has to be 6 feet, as this would be the 2nd elbow used) and that would also keep it at about 5 feet away from any window. Does this sound right? The only other thing I can think of doing is installing it the way that I want to (out at 2 feet) then digging a Pellet Pipe Moat around the pipe, so it is 3 feet above the ground level. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can send pics if anyone would like to see what we are trying to do here....Thanks!

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  2. twiddler

    twiddler New Member

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    My Dad has a simular problem. He wants to install his pellet stove in his basement the same way. His big problem is a window on the first floor right above where the stove is going. That means his pipes will be right in front of his window, or he has to make a right turn and go around it. I'm not sure how thats going to work, but there is no other place in his basement for a pellet stove.
  3. bostonbaked

    bostonbaked Member

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    Kevin I'm doing a set up just like you describe. I am drilling through foundation as well do to a small sized rim joist. If you go through concrete you need (zero clearance, no thimble ) concrete don't burn. The termination of the pipe has to be 24 inches above grade. at least twelve inches from the house (siding ) and 48 inches from any operational window and 12 inches above. So go through the wall and put an elbow or tee to head up the wall on the outside and another elbow Short run of pipe 12 inch or so and a horizontal termination cap BTW pipe can end below a window as long as it's 48 inches below.
  4. bostonbaked

    bostonbaked Member

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    In my town in Mass. you can make the window non-operational. But they would not go for any thing short of installing a fixed window. I could not just nail in shut in other words.
  5. twiddler

    twiddler New Member

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    Well, I know he never uses that window. It's the kind of window that turns outwards. I suppose if it's nailed shut, it shouldn't be problem.
  6. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw Minister of Fire

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    it is the termination of the pipe , not the skin of the pipe. it can come through below the 3 ft mark , but the end vent needs to be that high , or above any potential "snow drift " line if applicable.
  7. DiggerJim

    DiggerJim Feeling the Heat

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    Make sure it's not an "alternate egress window". Most fire codes require 2 means of egress for a room - the door and a window you can fit thru. If it's the only one in the room nailing it shut may violate the fire code.
  8. richkorn

    richkorn Minister of Fire

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    I'm a newbie so I ask the question:

    What does the window within a certain footage have to do with it? What would be the problem with having a window that opens only say 36" away from the vertical exhaust pipe venting to the outside?

    Thanks.

    (potential basement installation here also!)
  9. bostonbaked

    bostonbaked Member

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    From what I understand, it is the possibility of exaust gasses entering the house if someone opens the window.
  10. MCPO

    MCPO Minister of Fire

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    A window made inoperable won`t pass the muster. Mainly based on the probablility of the next occupant would make the window operable again with the stove and chimney in place .
  11. Ductape

    Ductape Member

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    Quick question since my install will be the same. When i go through my foundation, does it need to be a particular distance below (away from) my sill?

    Thanks !
  12. mister falcon

    mister falcon New Member

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    Thanks for all the info, everybody!

    Things are getting more and more clear about the install now. My next concern is the hearth, but I think we have that covered. We bought a piece of Durock and placed some mortar and ceramic tile over it. We used 1/4 inch Durock, so the total height of the hearth is about 3/4 of an inch. It is sitting on top of vinyl tile. Does this sound like it would pass code to anybody? When it comes to "R" and "k" values, I'm not really understanding it I don't think. I have no problem with adding more support (another piece of Durock, plywood, etc.) but would rather have more protection than necessary to be on the safe side. Our manual really has no specifications besides telling us that it must be placed on non-combustible materials, so I'm assuming this may be a bit of a gray area. The guy at Lowes told me to just get a piece of Durock and paint it, but we decided to tile it instead.
  13. twiddler

    twiddler New Member

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    They sell Stove Boards at Lowes or Homedepot. I think I paid $60 for the cheap black one.
  14. bostonbaked

    bostonbaked Member

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    It depends on the pipe. Some need only one inch of clearance to any combustible surface. Others need Three inches. Read the rating for your particular pipe. It can be in direct contact with the concrete. I believe that the core bits are in one inch increments so you'll be drilling a four inch hole to accommodate the three inch pipe which has an outside diameter of 3 5/8 ". So if your hole is at least that far from the sill your good to go.
  15. DiggerJim

    DiggerJim Feeling the Heat

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    Tried looking for the spec in your manual and you're right - pretty pathetic "specification" ("UL or better"). My stove (Whitfield) calls out specific K or R values (k=.84 or r=1.19) and in that case Durock would need to be at least 7/8" used alone (vs. the 1/4" you used) or your 1/4" + 1/4" ceramic tile would work. The k value for Durock is 1.92/inch and ceramic tile is 12.5/inch. Shame Englander doesn't provide better info. Mike over there (he's on the board here too) should be able to help get Englander specific info.
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